Excellent, Smithers, Medlicott Dome, Left 5.10a

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (3)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
razmonster

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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   Sep 24, 2011 - 12:23pm
Fun route that is tightly bolted. You could climb it in 4 pitches or link it up into three. I've heard people question the 10A rating, believing there isn't a 10A move on any of the pitches. I found a couple right before and a few bolts after the second belay rings. My partner led the last pitch and skipped a bolt that was out left, leaving him a bit freaked as he climbed a smeary face that would have been easier 4 feet to the left (where the bolt was placed.
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Ben Townsend

climber
Maine
Aug 14, 2008 - 07:40pm
 
As of August 6, the move off the belay on the second pitch was significantly harder (maybe 5.10c?) than anything else on the climb. There is a small, fresh-looking scar just up and right of the anchor that suggests a key knob may have broken off.

The triangular block at the top of the corner, just above, is detached. It's pretty much impossible not to touch it, but I wouldn't put gear under or behind it, especially given that it is poised right over the belay.

We made the same mistake as the previous poster on the third pitch -- the correct finish is further right than it appears at first.
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truckee trad

Trad climber
truckee
Sep 12, 2007 - 02:12pm
 
really a fun route. easily linked the first and second pitches. third pitch looks intimidating, but there are plenty of knobs and friction to comfortable set small nuts and a red metolious beneath the right-side of the roof. felt more like a 5.9 in this section. at the end of the bolt line on the third pitch look for the staircase on the far right. my leader took a staircase looking formation more straight up and slightly to the right of the last bolt and went straight up to the huge roof, just to find no belay anchors and had to downclimb 20 ft. of 5.7 friction to get back on route. views of "the yawn" just to climber's left is absolutely amazing!
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ccampb

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Jul 16, 2007 - 12:08pm
The two fixed pitons shown on the topo are both missing as of today.
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Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 1, 2007 - 07:45pm
 
The left-most top-rope off of the first pitch, "Beer", went up a crack 40' left of the 5.7 hand crack and then went diagonal across the face above (the 5.10 crux). We just established a route starting up the crack, then continuing up face trending left to horizontal cracks and a two bolt anchor (again about 40' left of the 2-bolt anchor on Excellent Smithers). The lead line isn't forced across the hard face and goes at a crimpy but tightly bolted 5.9 (two pro bolts). Guess we'll still call it Beer since the lower half was the old TR. Pro to 3", double 1" cams. One pro bolt and one anchor bolt are currently 1/4" bolts, but I'll go upgrade them soon. FA Greg Barnes, Bryan Law 6/07.
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giudirel

Sport climber
Italy
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   Aug 30, 2006 - 12:29pm
Climbed on august 23 2006 with my twelve years old daughter.
I stayed with a big pain on my right knee and not confident at all about the knee itself and to be true about simply me too.
I reached the start and some guys are crowding the first pitch (only that one and the nearest top ropes) so we warmed up on Shagadelic and come back a little bit less than 2 hour later.
First pitch is on gear but easy and a pair of medium cams will do the trick. A big one (3.5") will be handy but not mandatory.
Second and fourth ones need no more than some quickdraws.
Third one (maybe the tech and psyco crux) starts with four bolts then follows a narrow right facing dihedral with very good knobs that take a tiny nut (one of the two pins of topo is missing) and then follows an oblique crack with huge knobs and very good protection chances. I used a nut and a 2" cam. Take car to brake your enthusiasm and not follow the whole crack: you will miss the belay's bolts...
We had a great fun on this very safe route with very good news bolts and no runout at all. The best of it was cruising in an amazing simple and "peaceful" way that impressive and very steep huge slab.
We rappelled down quickly with two 60m ropes. All belays are on twin bolts with steel rings.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Medlicott Dome, Left - Excellent, Smithers 5.10a - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
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