Ixtlan, Whiskey Peak 5.11c

 
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 5
 (4.8)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 75%  (3)
4 star: 25%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
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   Oct 6, 2013 - 11:36pm
Stellar route.

As it relates to gear beta or condition of the route - the third pitch wide crack is protected with a #6, NOT a #5. Eventually it becomes too big for the 6 and you are relying on rusty, spinning Urioste hangers backed out by your tipped cam and a slew of swear words once you realize you can't take your precious (#6) with you the whole way.

The second pitch flake is kinda spooky and hollow, even following. First pitch is thin, technical, and the whole route is superb. Do it!!!
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vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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   Sep 24, 2007 - 11:42pm
classic route- even more classic if you link all three pitches into one with a 70m rope! i followed a rope-gun up it this way, and it was incredible, but ridiculously long!

imho, the ratings are as follows:
Pitch 1: mostly .11a with a distinct crux move.
Pitch 2: mostly .9 with a bit of air and run-out.
Pitch 3: sustained .10 offwidth work, certainly not .11 unless you feel like liebacking.

bring screamers for the old bolts on P3, or bring a 6" cam or two to push along!
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Mike Lydon

Trad climber
CO
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   May 25, 2006 - 08:29pm
I followed this route behind my old 5.13 climbing partner. He floated the route while I distinctly remember doing a head jam at the offwith roof and having to step on the bolt to get through it!! Good on pascal robert to rope gun me up an offwidth classic
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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dmitry

Trad climber
the evil empire
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   Apr 19, 2003 - 08:41am
Incredible line!!!
First of all, you may want a different shoe for each pitch:

P1: High-performance edging shoes
P2: Something comfortable to allow stuffing your foot into a sharp hollow crack
P3: Mountain boots

Seriously now:

P1: Very technical thin reachy 5.11+ face climbing. Only QD's needed

P2: An unpleasant 5.10 lead. Easy 5.7 - 5.9 flake ladder leads to a devious slot that is hard to protect: as the crack widens and flares, so does the dead space in the back behind it. A possible option is a mid-size hex slotted down from high above.
A 5" piece is highly recommended for the leader's already significantly reduced protection comfort.

P3: The Classic Off-width (oxymoron?). 5.11. Flared and off-set, left ankle scraping (hense the boots:) impreseptible inch-by-inch progress, in one word: masochism.

That 5" unit will be your companion for most of the lead to back up those delightful aging bolts.

But, hey: once you're through the 5.10+ wide funky corner, running it out to the anchor you've been longing for during what seemed like a day long 60 foot lead, you'll have made another fine crack-climbing memory.
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Whiskey Peak - Ixtlan 5.11c - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Located in Black Velvet Canyon, Whiskey Peak Wall is packed full of amazing climbs.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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