classic route- even more classic if you link all three pitches into one with a 70m rope! i followed a rope-gun up it this way, and it was incredible, but ridiculously long!
imho, the ratings are as follows:
Pitch 1: mostly .11a with a distinct crux move.
Pitch 2: mostly .9 with a bit of air and run-out.
Pitch 3: sustained .10 offwidth work, certainly not .11 unless you feel like liebacking.
bring screamers for the old bolts on P3, or bring a 6" cam or two to push along!
I followed this route behind my old 5.13 climbing partner. He floated the route while I distinctly remember doing a head jam at the offwith roof and having to step on the bolt to get through it!! Good on pascal robert to rope gun me up an offwidth classic
First of all, you may want a different shoe for each pitch:
P1: High-performance edging shoes
P2: Something comfortable to allow stuffing your foot into a sharp hollow crack
P3: Mountain boots
P1: Very technical thin reachy 5.11+ face climbing. Only QD's needed
P2: An unpleasant 5.10 lead. Easy 5.7 - 5.9 flake ladder leads to a devious slot that is hard to protect: as the crack widens and flares, so does the dead space in the back behind it. A possible option is a mid-size hex slotted down from high above.
A 5" piece is highly recommended for the leader's already significantly reduced protection comfort.
P3: The Classic Off-width (oxymoron?). 5.11. Flared and off-set, left ankle scraping (hense the boots:) impreseptible inch-by-inch progress, in one word: masochism.
That 5" unit will be your companion for most of the lead to back up those delightful aging bolts.
But, hey: once you're through the 5.10+ wide funky corner, running it out to the anchor you've been longing for during what seemed like a day long 60 foot lead, you'll have made another fine crack-climbing memory.
Located in Black Velvet Canyon, Whiskey Peak Wall is packed full of amazing climbs.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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