Lotta Balls, Lotta Balls Wall 5.8

 
Search
Go

Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Sort 11 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.4)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 40%  (2)
4 star: 60%  (3)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:24pm
 
I got this feedback from a SuperTopo user:

Lotta Balls
The last "pitch" is 245 to 250 feet from the anchors at the top of the second pitch to the Tree on the topo. Bruce was familiar with the climb so he knew it would take simul climbing to reach the tree anchor. On the lower end I was 5.7 to 5.8 stemming, chimney, hand jams, arm bars to get up to the point where he could reach the tree. He was on easy class 5 terrain. It worked but...hardly what one would expect from the topo.

There were places around 160 to 180 where regular sized gear would have built an anchor. At 200 feet a couple of four inch cams might have been needed. It is really a four pitch climb. Evidently, not many people do the third and fourth pitches. The Class 3 really starts above the second tree.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Colin Little

climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 6, 2009 - 10:32pm
 
This is a great route. We only did the first 2 pitches because we were in a hurry, but both were a lot of fun. The first bolt on pitch two looks much further than it is. You can easily reach it from the mini ledge 15 feet or so up from the anchor.

The approach is a piece of cake, but here are the coords for the base since I happened to have my GPS on me.

N 36 4'41.6"
W 115 28'36.0"
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 19, 2008 - 10:37pm
 
a TR with my partner Dave
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=281522

Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
seaveez

climber
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   May 28, 2007 - 12:13pm
Agree with what's been said about the route ... among the best of it's grade at Red Rocks. Great variation (face, crack). Also, you won't find the crowds like at other classic climbs within the park.

The climb is in the shade all afternoon, with a fairly easy approach. For us, this was a big bonus, because we climbed it May 15, and it was HOT in Vegas.

You can rap from the top of the third pitch (off the tree), but will need two ropes. The scramble to the top, then decent through the gully is not too bad. Just be careful when pulling your rope down the gully, as you could pull rocks down on top of you.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
harmonydoc

Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Mar 26, 2007 - 02:52pm
Loved it! Great variety of climbing. 5.8 is my current trad leading limit, and I found this route just right - more balancy than physical, good stances, decent pro. Rapped from P2 anchors 'cause we were running out of daylight. Warning: P1 crack eats ropes, saw at least 4 stuck rope fragments in there.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jun 7, 2006 - 07:30am
Don't cheat yourself. Climb it all the way to the top . It is fun and the down scramble is another beautifull desert experience.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
TIM SHEA

Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   May 21, 2004 - 01:30pm
We climbed this in March of 2004. About an hours walk brings you to this climb. Easy compared to other Red Rocks Canyons. 1st pitch is a fun little roof, easily protected. Pitch 2 is the fun. Polished and a tad slippery but well protected by 2 brand new bolts. Thanks ASCA. The crux comes after the second bolt. The thrill is in trusting the little balls not to break off. But they have been there for many ascents. Belay from the top of the pillar. You can rap off the top of this pitch. We continued, the 3rd pitch is nice. 3 single rope rapells get you bottom.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Jolly Wally

Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
Apr 1, 2004 - 12:45pm
 
I climbed this route on 3/25/04.
My partner and I took a second 60 meter rope just to rappel on and climbed this route in three pitches using one 60 meter rope. The third pitch ended at a small tree about the diameter of my upper leg. From this tree we went about 20 feet up and over to a rappel anchor. We rapped down past one rappel anchor (slings and an old locking biner) and reached the next one (slings, a regular biner, and a lock link?) down by a small bush with rope to spare (using both ropes). From this one we rappelled down on one rope and got to about 10 feet of the ground before we came off the end of the rope and had to do some minor downclimbing. So we made it in two raps, one of about 180 feet and the second was 100 feet. The guys behind us had one rope and took three raps with some downclimbing involved to reach the anchors(they said). It sounds like some people go on up about 100 feet above the tree and then come down a gully from there.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
dmitry

Trad climber
the evil empire
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Apr 19, 2003 - 08:52am
A great line:

P1: funky thought-provoking initial section leads past the roof to a delightful silky hand-crack. Not to be missed!

P2: As Tim Toula put it: Marbleous Climbing! Think Tuolumne Golfer's Route @ 5.8+ on marbles and ball-bearings for hands and feet.

A huge juggy stemming hueco-pulling corner leads to the unnecessarily bolted anchor. That does allow you to rap down at this point if not wishing to continue.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
frank

Intermediate climber
the evil empire
Nov 29, 2002 - 08:24am
 

The second pitch is great face climbing!
If going to the top would recomend keeping the third pitch shorter, go up to roof step left and go up a few feet to setup a hanging belay using your own gear(approx 90ft). From hear you can go to the top with one 60 meter rope.
From top go behind bushes and you will see gulley with rap slings, it's three rappels ( you will see slings on the trees ) and some downclimbing.
Great route, get there early.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Lotta Balls Wall - Lotta Balls 5.8 - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Lotta Balls Wall is located at the entrance to First Creek Canyon.
Photo: Larry De Angelo
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.