The last "pitch" is 245 to 250 feet from the anchors at the top of the second pitch to the Tree on the topo. Bruce was familiar with the climb so he knew it would take simul climbing to reach the tree anchor. On the lower end I was 5.7 to 5.8 stemming, chimney, hand jams, arm bars to get up to the point where he could reach the tree. He was on easy class 5 terrain. It worked but...hardly what one would expect from the topo.
There were places around 160 to 180 where regular sized gear would have built an anchor. At 200 feet a couple of four inch cams might have been needed. It is really a four pitch climb. Evidently, not many people do the third and fourth pitches. The Class 3 really starts above the second tree.
This is a great route. We only did the first 2 pitches because we were in a hurry, but both were a lot of fun. The first bolt on pitch two looks much further than it is. You can easily reach it from the mini ledge 15 feet or so up from the anchor.
The approach is a piece of cake, but here are the coords for the base since I happened to have my GPS on me.
Agree with what's been said about the route ... among the best of it's grade at Red Rocks. Great variation (face, crack). Also, you won't find the crowds like at other classic climbs within the park.
The climb is in the shade all afternoon, with a fairly easy approach. For us, this was a big bonus, because we climbed it May 15, and it was HOT in Vegas.
You can rap from the top of the third pitch (off the tree), but will need two ropes. The scramble to the top, then decent through the gully is not too bad. Just be careful when pulling your rope down the gully, as you could pull rocks down on top of you.
Loved it! Great variety of climbing. 5.8 is my current trad leading limit, and I found this route just right - more balancy than physical, good stances, decent pro. Rapped from P2 anchors 'cause we were running out of daylight. Warning: P1 crack eats ropes, saw at least 4 stuck rope fragments in there.
We climbed this in March of 2004. About an hours walk brings you to this climb. Easy compared to other Red Rocks Canyons. 1st pitch is a fun little roof, easily protected. Pitch 2 is the fun. Polished and a tad slippery but well protected by 2 brand new bolts. Thanks ASCA. The crux comes after the second bolt. The thrill is in trusting the little balls not to break off. But they have been there for many ascents. Belay from the top of the pillar. You can rap off the top of this pitch. We continued, the 3rd pitch is nice. 3 single rope rapells get you bottom.
I climbed this route on 3/25/04.
My partner and I took a second 60 meter rope just to rappel on and climbed this route in three pitches using one 60 meter rope. The third pitch ended at a small tree about the diameter of my upper leg. From this tree we went about 20 feet up and over to a rappel anchor. We rapped down past one rappel anchor (slings and an old locking biner) and reached the next one (slings, a regular biner, and a lock link?) down by a small bush with rope to spare (using both ropes). From this one we rappelled down on one rope and got to about 10 feet of the ground before we came off the end of the rope and had to do some minor downclimbing. So we made it in two raps, one of about 180 feet and the second was 100 feet. The guys behind us had one rope and took three raps with some downclimbing involved to reach the anchors(they said). It sounds like some people go on up about 100 feet above the tree and then come down a gully from there.
The second pitch is great face climbing!
If going to the top would recomend keeping the third pitch shorter, go up to roof step left and go up a few feet to setup a hanging belay using your own gear(approx 90ft). From hear you can go to the top with one 60 meter rope.
From top go behind bushes and you will see gulley with rap slings, it's three rappels ( you will see slings on the trees ) and some downclimbing.
Great route, get there early.
Lotta Balls Wall is located at the entrance to First Creek Canyon.
Photo: Larry De Angelo
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