Surrealistic Pillar, Lover's Leap, Lower Buttress 5.7

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
9 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (3)
4 star: 33%  (3)
3 star: 33%  (3)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Nathan

Intermediate climber
Oct 11, 2002 - 10:39pm
 
Great route. On the 2nd pitch the supertopo said to step left onto dikes/flakes from the first belay. I tried that and it didn't seem right. The flakes out left don't start directly left of the belay. I instead followed the corner up to the spot marked "5.8 w/pin". Then I traversed left onto the 5.7 flakes. This seemed much more resonable and protected ok, small cams in pin scars, the pin is ok too. The 5.8 move is a mantel of sorts, didn't feel to hard. The traverse left from here is good. The Trembling Traverse is pretty wild, big fall potential back into the corner...the traverse starts with good hands and feet then your hands run out for about 2-3 moves then hand holds reapper. After that the route gets easy. I would agree with the topo that you should be solid at leading 5.8 to feel good on this climb. Lot's of physical and steep 5.7 . Enjoy!
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Colt45

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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   Oct 30, 2003 - 11:04pm
Since there were parties starting the regular and direct starts when we arrived, we headed up the "variation" start which climbs big dikes past a knob, then follows a crack to awesome jams.

This pitch is spectacular! And, the pro is bomber. It's definitely worth checking out, and was definitely my favorite pitch out of any climb at the leap.
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the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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   Oct 11, 2004 - 06:54am
I was able to do this as a 2 pitch with a 60M rope. I passed the first regualar belay spot then traversed left at the pin and went up about 6 feet to a good stance and set up a belay with 2 nuts and a small cam. Then I headed left off the belay immediately onto the trembling traverse.

We linked this up with Corrugation Corner, it works out great. It's a short hike between the two.
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Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
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   Oct 24, 2004 - 11:26pm
With a 60m you can go past the fat crack, the fixed pin, and onto the low angle pillar to a comfy belay spot (good dikes to stand on, just above the hollow crap rock stepover). From there you can easily top out, get to the tree as a free anchor, and pull enough slack up to walk back to the edge where you can hear.
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The Jackal

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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   Sep 14, 2005 - 06:07pm
Climbed the route today and decided to check out the ledge with the bad rock instead of taking the "Trembling Traverse." This is not recommended as the rock is very poor and the pro is pretty bad. Not that the pro isn't there but the rock isn't any good and I wouldn't trust it. There are several boulders and loose flakes on the ledge that need to be cleaned. I would say that there is definitely a danger in them falling at some point whether by human contact or by natural means and they are located directly above the start of the climb. Again I don't recommend going this way but if you do know that it is very runout with bad rock.
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Evdawg

Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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   May 28, 2008 - 01:43pm
did this at the beginning of April this year, the base was loaded with snow but the top was dry.

this route acctually was very surrealistic..
we decided instead of going left around the aret to continue up the wide layback crack and up that little gully.

we didn't know anything about it at the time, but we didn't find the rock to be as bad as described.. i only found one loose block and that was on the ledge.
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maestro8

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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   Aug 4, 2008 - 10:18am
I found a blue tri-cam with blue and yellow tape on the sling, just rattling around in the crack above the direct start. Holler if you want it back...

The first pitch had some great climbing, but it was definitely "heads-up" as the sequence isn't as obvious as many other 5.7s at the Leap. Be sure to put some long slings on your pieces or you'll get some nasty rope drag.

I stretched our 60m rope the full length and belayed from the "bad rock" ledge as well... makes this a two-pitch climb. There are still a few loose blocks on this ledge that are quite ready to fall.

We climbed up the gulley above this ledge before re-joining the route to the left. It was tricky 5.7 with sparse pro, but it was short.

This route isn't the most spectacular thing the Leap has to offer, but it's a great way to get up to the Main Wall!
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caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Aug 4, 2008 - 11:14am
 
Hey Maestro,

If you belay from the bad rock ledge you've gone too far. You can belay from a good stance about 20' lower on good rock, and still get the thing done in 2 pitches. Also, the best traverse left is done just below the bad rock ledge. It moves around the corner on solid dikes and keeps you out of that crud. Much better this way, that corner up above sucks.
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Sep 2, 2008 - 11:13am
We also belayed from the "bad" rock ledge which was surprisingly not that bad. I did have to search for placements to build an anchor and I think I ended up using a #3 nut with two .4 cams. When I climb this again, I'll do what caughtinside suggests and traverse around the arete just before the rotten ledge. I'll also leave the #4 at home.

I felt the arete on Corrugation has better moves than Surrealistic, but that this climb consistently has better climbing.

On a side note, you get an awesome view of this climb from top to bottom from the topout on "Its Better With Bacon."
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Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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   Jun 21, 2010 - 12:00pm
The 5.5 rating after the Trembling Traverse is generous, it's mostly class 4 with a few easy class 5 moves.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Lover's Leap, Lower Buttress - Surrealistic Pillar 5.7 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from Hogsback.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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