We also belayed from the "bad" rock ledge which was surprisingly not that bad. I did have to search for placements to build an anchor and I think I ended up using a #3 nut with two .4 cams. When I climb this again, I'll do what caughtinside suggests and traverse around the arete just before the rotten ledge. I'll also leave the #4 at home.
I felt the arete on Corrugation has better moves than Surrealistic, but that this climb consistently has better climbing.
On a side note, you get an awesome view of this climb from top to bottom from the topout on "Its Better With Bacon."
If you belay from the bad rock ledge you've gone too far. You can belay from a good stance about 20' lower on good rock, and still get the thing done in 2 pitches. Also, the best traverse left is done just below the bad rock ledge. It moves around the corner on solid dikes and keeps you out of that crud. Much better this way, that corner up above sucks.
I found a blue tri-cam with blue and yellow tape on the sling, just rattling around in the crack above the direct start. Holler if you want it back...
The first pitch had some great climbing, but it was definitely "heads-up" as the sequence isn't as obvious as many other 5.7s at the Leap. Be sure to put some long slings on your pieces or you'll get some nasty rope drag.
I stretched our 60m rope the full length and belayed from the "bad rock" ledge as well... makes this a two-pitch climb. There are still a few loose blocks on this ledge that are quite ready to fall.
We climbed up the gulley above this ledge before re-joining the route to the left. It was tricky 5.7 with sparse pro, but it was short.
This route isn't the most spectacular thing the Leap has to offer, but it's a great way to get up to the Main Wall!
Climbed the route today and decided to check out the ledge with the bad rock instead of taking the "Trembling Traverse." This is not recommended as the rock is very poor and the pro is pretty bad. Not that the pro isn't there but the rock isn't any good and I wouldn't trust it. There are several boulders and loose flakes on the ledge that need to be cleaned. I would say that there is definitely a danger in them falling at some point whether by human contact or by natural means and they are located directly above the start of the climb. Again I don't recommend going this way but if you do know that it is very runout with bad rock.
With a 60m you can go past the fat crack, the fixed pin, and onto the low angle pillar to a comfy belay spot (good dikes to stand on, just above the hollow crap rock stepover). From there you can easily top out, get to the tree as a free anchor, and pull enough slack up to walk back to the edge where you can hear.
I was able to do this as a 2 pitch with a 60M rope. I passed the first regualar belay spot then traversed left at the pin and went up about 6 feet to a good stance and set up a belay with 2 nuts and a small cam. Then I headed left off the belay immediately onto the trembling traverse.
We linked this up with Corrugation Corner, it works out great. It's a short hike between the two.
Great route. On the 2nd pitch the supertopo said to step left onto dikes/flakes from the first belay. I tried that and it didn't seem right. The flakes out left don't start directly left of the belay. I instead followed the corner up to the spot marked "5.8 w/pin". Then I traversed left onto the 5.7 flakes. This seemed much more resonable and protected ok, small cams in pin scars, the pin is ok too. The 5.8 move is a mantel of sorts, didn't feel to hard. The traverse left from here is good. The Trembling Traverse is pretty wild, big fall potential back into the corner...the traverse starts with good hands and feet then your hands run out for about 2-3 moves then hand holds reapper. After that the route gets easy. I would agree with the topo that you should be solid at leading 5.8 to feel good on this climb. Lot's of physical and steep 5.7 . Enjoy!
A view from Hogsback.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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