nate2655
Trad climber
gardnerville, nevada
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As stated in the last post.... that block on the second pitch will not hold a fall.... i really dont think it will even hold a hard down-ward pull... someone needs to get it off.... i would have done it myself if there wasn't a line of people below me..... pull and stand softly on it... i think when it comes off they will have to bump the grade up on that section for short people...
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gino DiSciullo
Trad climber
CA
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Attention on the second pitch regarding the loose block about 15-20 feet above the anchor that takes a #1-2 Camelot.
Given the runout section many climbers will be tempted to place a cam behind this 80 lb loose tooth, however over the last three climbing seasons the block has become notably less secure: it will not protect a fall.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Did this climb last week and I agree with Greg, it was much harder for me than anything on The Line or Traveler Buttress. I will say the chimney/offwidth on TB is more physical, but Scimitar is definitely more mental and technical. I wasn't expecting any problems on p1, but some of the moves up the corner really made me think and got my head in the game for the next two pitches.
For the roof after the runout on Pitch 2, I got a solid #4 Metolius nut in at the roof's lip, then placed a bomber #1 camalot a few feet above that. This made me feel confident enough to do the tenuous moves over the lip. The 5.8 crack above is sweet with great exposure.
And like the topo says, the last pitch is definitely wild.
The largest piece(s) I brought were two #3 camalots, but just one may have been fine. I think a #4 is overkill. Compared to other climbs at the Leap, I sure did use a lot of nuts.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Yep, that's the roof. Good incut side-pull a little above the lip, but then pretty slopey higher, really hard for me to get my foot on the lip jug and pull it over (knee-in-face type thing). I also thought that the first roof after the runout was pretty hard/balancy.
Of course it all depends on what your standard rack is and if you place much pro, but my advice is to save weight on a big piece and bring extra in the 1-1.25" range.
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donnyji
Social climber
Washington, DC
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As far as I remember, a standard rack was fine. Remember climbing it 2 times, but couldda been 3.
Greg is a better source of beta than me--slobmonster too probably. But I remember this route being easier than Traveler Buttress, and don't remember it being harder than The Line.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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I don't recall needing three of anything on this route, but I could be wrong. Greg is this the roof you're referring to?
I recall each roof move to feel very similar, and quite fun.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Cool route!
I found a couple cruxes on this route that were harder for me than anything on the Line or Traveler's Buttress, but the climbing is less sustained. The first roof on the 3rd pitch was the crux for me (not marked with a rating in the topo), but I think being tall hurts for that one.
The runout on pitch 2 should probably be called 5.7. Also, when you get to a pro placement (a few feet below the roof), it's a slightly-downward-flaring crack where many people think it's fine to place cams, but they might pop if you actually fell. You can get a nut in with a bit of work, and the moves to the roof are easy.
Next time I do this route I'll bring an extra cam (i.e. triples) for the 1" and 1.25" sizes, a single 3", and no 3.5". Save one of those 1.25" cams for the second belay. Also, I'll bring more long slings, especially for the left finish through the fun roofs!
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crazyfingers
climber
CA
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Great route. My partner led pitches 1,3 and I led pitch 2.
Pitch 2 is a lot of fun with the 5.6 runout leading to the 5.9 roof moves. Protect well before the roof, or else risk a nasty factor 2 fall onto the belay.
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luca
Trad climber
milano italy
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I did in july with my daughter marta 12 years. good pro, but you need cool control for the grade. most varied, tricky and less crowd than the line.
do it
luca
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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A view from the approach.Photo: Chris McNamara
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