Scimitar, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.9 R

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.3)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
10 Total Ratings
5 star: 30%  (3)
4 star: 70%  (7)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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   Jul 8, 2013 - 12:57am
Did this route twice already this season - yea!
P1 is fun - was straight forward for me as new 5.9 leader - was happy to see that shiny bolt anchor and nice belay ledge after 165'
P2 got my attention. Go up and right through run out. Maybe one 5.7 move. I made the moves easier by standing on loose block/flake, but that baby is loose - I could easily tilt the top a 1/2 inch away from wall - scary - do not pro - do not pull on it. The 5.9 bulge after the run out is spicy, exposed, cruxy, but you can stable it. I did it easy first time, and struggled the 2nd - hmmm
P3 is...wild - I traversed left just under the first roof (not after it like topo drawing) - tricky - place pro in roof, reach left for those jugs- lie back and go over - damn what a move! Go up a little ways then you have to come back around this damn airy corner - exposure! Protect the follower on the 5.8 escape - you lived.
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gizzard

Trad climber
sacrramento
Jun 28, 2013 - 09:42am
 
CMS and I did this last week. Was AWESOME! 2nd and 3rd pitch were the spicy goodness.
P2 i thought was the best.

however I did not even notice a loose rock at all.. or need to use one... just cruised through it.

loooved the heady start to p2 run out on 5.6 to a Pro( think it was small metolious) i got in there.. then pull the 5.9 move to pro again over the bulge.

small placements for the pro on that 1st 5.9 move. but can climb through the move to stance to place gear. seemed to be a theme on this route. all solid 5.9 moves..but u can stance before and after each moving making it a super fun lead!!
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cms

climber
Jun 4, 2013 - 12:02pm
 
Thx Bad
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bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2013 - 07:36am
 
Maybe this is giving the crux away, but you don't climb the roof directly unless you want to make the climb way harder than it should be.
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Bad Climber

climber
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   Jun 4, 2013 - 05:36am
Just step around the block, whatever the condition. There's no need to even touch it. Deal with the runout, which isn't too bad if you carefully follow the best dikes.

One of my favorite routes at the Leap.

BAd
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cms

climber
Jun 3, 2013 - 10:12pm
 
Thinking of checking out this route soon. Any update on the loose block? Thanks!
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nate2655

Trad climber
gardnerville, nevada
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   May 29, 2012 - 11:28am
As stated in the last post.... that block on the second pitch will not hold a fall.... i really dont think it will even hold a hard down-ward pull... someone needs to get it off.... i would have done it myself if there wasn't a line of people below me..... pull and stand softly on it... i think when it comes off they will have to bump the grade up on that section for short people...
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gino DiSciullo

Trad climber
CA
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   Jul 16, 2011 - 04:03pm
Attention on the second pitch regarding the loose block about 15-20 feet above the anchor that takes a #1-2 Camelot.

Given the runout section many climbers will be tempted to place a cam behind this 80 lb loose tooth, however over the last three climbing seasons the block has become notably less secure: it will not protect a fall.
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Nov 6, 2009 - 11:43am
Did this climb last week and I agree with Greg, it was much harder for me than anything on The Line or Traveler Buttress. I will say the chimney/offwidth on TB is more physical, but Scimitar is definitely more mental and technical. I wasn't expecting any problems on p1, but some of the moves up the corner really made me think and got my head in the game for the next two pitches.

For the roof after the runout on Pitch 2, I got a solid #4 Metolius nut in at the roof's lip, then placed a bomber #1 camalot a few feet above that. This made me feel confident enough to do the tenuous moves over the lip. The 5.8 crack above is sweet with great exposure.
And like the topo says, the last pitch is definitely wild.

The largest piece(s) I brought were two #3 camalots, but just one may have been fine. I think a #4 is overkill. Compared to other climbs at the Leap, I sure did use a lot of nuts.
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   Jun 8, 2007 - 03:31pm
Yep, that's the roof. Good incut side-pull a little above the lip, but then pretty slopey higher, really hard for me to get my foot on the lip jug and pull it over (knee-in-face type thing). I also thought that the first roof after the runout was pretty hard/balancy.

Of course it all depends on what your standard rack is and if you place much pro, but my advice is to save weight on a big piece and bring extra in the 1-1.25" range.
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donnyji

Social climber
Washington, DC
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   Jun 7, 2007 - 07:31pm
As far as I remember, a standard rack was fine. Remember climbing it 2 times, but couldda been 3.

Greg is a better source of beta than me--slobmonster too probably. But I remember this route being easier than Traveler Buttress, and don't remember it being harder than The Line.
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slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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   Jun 7, 2007 - 06:23pm
I don't recall needing three of anything on this route, but I could be wrong. Greg is this the roof you're referring to?



I recall each roof move to feel very similar, and quite fun.
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   Jun 4, 2007 - 08:40am
Cool route!

I found a couple cruxes on this route that were harder for me than anything on the Line or Traveler's Buttress, but the climbing is less sustained. The first roof on the 3rd pitch was the crux for me (not marked with a rating in the topo), but I think being tall hurts for that one.

The runout on pitch 2 should probably be called 5.7. Also, when you get to a pro placement (a few feet below the roof), it's a slightly-downward-flaring crack where many people think it's fine to place cams, but they might pop if you actually fell. You can get a nut in with a bit of work, and the moves to the roof are easy.

Next time I do this route I'll bring an extra cam (i.e. triples) for the 1" and 1.25" sizes, a single 3", and no 3.5". Save one of those 1.25" cams for the second belay. Also, I'll bring more long slings, especially for the left finish through the fun roofs!

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crazyfingers

climber
CA
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   Aug 29, 2006 - 10:50am
Great route. My partner led pitches 1,3 and I led pitch 2.
Pitch 2 is a lot of fun with the 5.6 runout leading to the 5.9 roof moves. Protect well before the roof, or else risk a nasty factor 2 fall onto the belay.
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luca

Trad climber
milano italy
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   Oct 23, 2005 - 12:42am
I did in july with my daughter marta 12 years. good pro, but you need cool control for the grade. most varied, tricky and less crowd than the line.
do it
luca
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Lover's Leap, East Wall - Scimitar 5.9 R - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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