The hardest part is getting up to the "glacier", if you're coming from sea level. It's overkill to use technical ice toolsó but anymore (if there's anything left in October), two short tools will do. I did it with a 60cm piolet and an alpine hammer. Rap back down along the side of the gully. Now consider the V-notch!
We attempted it on Sunday, the snow was still good, it got a little icy in the top section, but we were able to bail onto rocks.
We would have been able to climb the chimney in one 70m pitch, maybe even 60m. Our rack: Metolius Offset cams yellow/blue + orange/yellow, BD red, green, purple, half a set of nuts, 3 smallest tricams (used only the pink), some hexes (didn't use them). It was probably too much stuff, but it was our first climb in boots, so we wanted to have enough. Next time we would probably only bring nuts, the offsets and BD purple and green.
Because it was getting too late, we bailed after the chimney and didn't finish the traverse.
Be careful on the rappel, the third (?) anchor we used was above a pile of very loose rock.
U Notch in Yellow (V Notch in Red)
Photo: Ryan Crochiere
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