South Face, Charlotte Dome 5.8

 
Search
Go

High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Sort 13 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.7)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
11 Total Ratings
5 star: 91%  (10)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 9%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Mo

Mountain climber
Belmont (Ca)
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Sep 3, 2003 - 11:58am
Approach from the west: From the campspot (junction between Charlotte & Bubb's Creek) follow Charlotte's creek on the left side. Stay away from the creek to keep you out of the bush!! After 10 min you should start seeing cairns. Follow them and you should begin to see traces of a faint climbers trail. The trail will lead you far from the creek ( 50-100 mt) and from the hideous bushes. The trail zig zag up following a dry creek. The trail is steep but no bushwacking is required! Follow the faint trail all the way up. You will eventually have some cliffs on your left, do not climb those but leave the cliffs on your left. When you start seeing the bottom slabs of the dome keep left following the cairns. Once you reach the base of the dome keep left and proceed for further 20 mt. You will encounter the dead tree that Chris describes in the topo and hopefully the start of the route. From the start you will clearly see a small pine with several webbing to rappel down. Estimated time to reach the start from the campsite : 2 hours max.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
johnkitt

Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jun 1, 2004 - 03:36pm
Did this route on Memorial Day weekend. Although there's still patches of snow along the approach trail (especially on the East side of Kearsarge Pass), Charlotte Dome itself was clear (there's a few patches on the descent, but you can avoid them).

Really fun route. Not sure how you can make this into 12 pitches, however. We did it in 9 (one of which was a screw-up because I got us off-route chasing after booty). (note: I was using Croft's book for beta, so his route may be a tad different then the Supertopo version).

-john kitt.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
LGB

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Sep 8, 2004 - 11:28am
This is an excellent route with many options. I would recommend from the top of the 8th pitch (semi-hanging belay) going left, then straight up (160 to 170 feet total) to a big comfy ledge at the base of a left facing corner. It's then easy to get on the arete and go up to the alcove (or even almost all the way to the big sandy ledge with a 60m). The ledge is a welcome break at this point in the climb!
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
crotch

climber
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jul 5, 2005 - 03:57pm
Fantastic route.

Approaching from the West, there is a very good climber's trail just West of Charlotte Creek.

The pitch just below the Slot pitch seemed to be about 100' to me. With a 60m rope, the Slot pitch can be easily linked with the traversing pitch above to bring you to a nice ledge.

The big ledge below the last pitch would make for an amazing bivy.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
del cross

climber
Jul 5, 2005 - 05:15pm
 
"The big ledge below the last pitch would make for an amazing bivy."

The big ledge directly below the summit makes for an even better bivy.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
msiddens

Trad climber
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Sep 15, 2005 - 08:03am
Approached from the East via Kearsarge pass and camped at Charlotte lake for kicks. It made for a long day on the climb but overall proved well worth it. Weather was amazing and only one other party on the route arrived at the base about 45 mins after our 7:30AM start.

Route was great and from what I can tell we stayed on route all the way to the top. My only confusion was on pitch five from the ledge where the ST guide shows you climbing up and right (5.6 move) and then traversing to the awkward corner. The guide shows 70 feet and the traverse follows the natural dike. After much back and forth I decided the traverse length was more like 15 feet to the major obvious corner overhead. It proved fun and...awkward none the less.

Great route and a liftime one at that.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jun 17, 2009 - 08:08am
 
here is a good Forum thread with some beta and a cool photo

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=870388
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Oct 15, 2012 - 12:40pm
i did this route two weeks ago and have been meaning to write a trip report. but for now i just have to say i disagree with the last comments. if you didn't like this route then i don't know what to tell you. the route we climbed was obvious, clean and fluid (and matched the supertopo description quite well with a couple small exceptions - e.g. topo pitch 9 is NOT runout unless you want it to be). it climbed well, was more than well protected, and super classic. a worthy outing to say the least.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Alois

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Oct 15, 2012 - 03:49pm
Sometime in late March 1992, Rich Henke, Nancy Jensen, Peter Green and I, skied to Charlotte Dome from Onion Valley and climbed the South Face in very cold, late winter conditions. The climb was great, the descent took everything out of us. Many rappels off trees down snow covered slabs, that in summer were easy walk, caused us to get back to the base the next day in the early morning. Same day ski out followed. Looking at the climb after all these years, the route is very suitable to a late winter ski and climb combination trip. Since the route faces south and receives a lot of sun, it dries quickly after late winter storms. The approach via Kearsarge Pass and the long ski down to the Dome are great and the climbing is very good. I completely disagree with the comment below, this is indeed one of the real classics of the Sierra, summer or winter.

P.S. If this climb was located in Yo, none of us would ever get on it. It would be like "take a number" and come back in couple of weeks!
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Oct 15, 2012 - 04:47pm
Did this route a few weeks ago and it was great. Awesome setting and very featured granite. Route finding was what we exopected, a great adventure. Not a hard climb, but being 12 miles in I don't mind a crusier for 12 pitches.

I posted a topic on the ST about California Condors after the trip, as we saw one during the climb.

Perfect three day trip. We bivied at Charlotte Lake to make the hike in with full packs a bit shorter. Did the approach 3 miles, climb, then back 3 mile to Charlotte Lake on the second day. Hiked out from Charlotte Lake on day 3.

Like the ski in idea!!
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Oct 16, 2012 - 10:27pm
If anyone finds a camera at the base let me know.

Dropped it last year while simuling first 5 pitches...
This route is awesome. Original and fun. Thought it was well protected too.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jul 26, 2013 - 05:29pm
Here's a video with snippets from every pitch. The actual climbing begins at 2:49.

Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Erik Vance

Trad climber
Mexico City, DF
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Oct 15, 2012 - 11:17am
I just did this route over the first weekend in October via the west "Road's End" side. I really don't get what the big deal is with this route. One guide said it was perhaps the best of its grade in the Sierras. I found it boring and awkward, as well as hard to follow. So did the experienced party behind us. And for the beginner, the runouts are just too long. If it were in the Valley, I would call it a two-star route. That far in the back country? Probably not worth it.
Some beta I found useful:
Pitch 4 is shorter than you want to think and the "chimney" is more of a wide flaring crack (though there is a chimney to the right that doesn't lead to the Slot but has rap slings). You should be able to spot the "slot" pitch above.
Pitch 7, the awkward dihedral, is lame. The party behind us found a better route to the left.
Pitch 8 is a complete mystery to me. But if you get it wrong, you will miss the "Furrows" pitch. This was the crux of routefinding for me. Also the head crux. Long runouts not for the beginner!!
Pitch 9 is hard to orient without mentioning the giant buttress over your head (not in the guide). I think the route goes to the right of it and the next pitch is straight up the last half of it.
Hike down is long but once on the main trail is really pretty.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Charlotte Dome - South Face 5.8 - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from the approach.
Photo: Karl Lew
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.