Hey Vinnie, the midway rap station you used to get off of "Ejesta"is an anchor for a two pitch climb we put up last year called "Dr. Fun Time". It takes the overhanging crack up to the pillar with the bolt station (5.10d). The next pitch flips around the arete to the left(wild move 5.10c) and up cracks to join Ejesta at the ledge, just left of the anchors. It was not intended as a midway rap station but glad it came in handy. - Eric Gabel
We did this with a 60 meter rope, split it into two pitches and used an intermediate rap station to get to the ground. The lower anchor is off to the side, so a bit of swinging was required. They look new and shiny, and I'm pretty sure they're not in the book.
The first belay is not bad. Bad belays are ones where you are hanging for six hours in extreme pain. This is a nice belay. There ain't mermaids feeding you grapes or nothing, but pretty comfy. Two ropes was nice for the rap, but maybe not necessary.
The second half of the first pitch has an off-finger/very thin hands crack which is where the fun begins. We climbed the route in two pitches and next time I'd do it in one because the first belay was less than ideal. We belayed at the corner to the left with pro in slightly decomposing flakes held in by loose dirt and other flakes. Also, we noticed a very large stacked block which creates the start of the second pitch held in by some loose blocks and dirt. Heads up because one day that thing is going to go. But the hands on that second pitch are excellent. Despite the loose blocks, dirt, and unappealing first 50 feet, I'm surprised this climb only gets three stars.
if you're the kind of person who thinks climbing bishop's terrace in one pitch is a good idea (it is, by the way), then you should do ejesta as one too. the first pitch is lame, the anchor means extra gear and extra time. the second is great. just run them together.
Nov 4, 2002 - 02:59pm
Wear a helmet, prevent needless injury! Route starts at the dead tree to the left of the huge alcove/roof .2 pitches belay in corner. Watch for loose rock at belay station. The second pitch is the money pitch. Wide at the top BD 1-3.5, 2-4's and / or 1-5. Protect your second on the traverse. 2 rope rap on bomber hangers (triple fisherman with backup overhand OK). Watch the flakes when pulling your rope.
Oct 28, 2002 - 03:57pm
I loved this climb. I found the first pitch to be a bit awkward but fun. Second pitch is great; excellent hand jams and lay backs; protects very well. The traverse is awesome to a great ledge. High in the corner at the beginning of the ledge is a small pocket which takes a small alien (check the picture in the SuperTopo). A somewhat airy (2 rope) rap finishes a great route.
We did this route in two pitches, on the first pitch (5.8) direct start there are a few loose blocks but the pro is decent.
Belay in the corner not at the start of the 2nd pitch cracks. The second pitch is great, some fine crack climbing. The crack goes wide at the top, 2 #4 Camalots would be the best for this section. The traverse to the anchors is exciting.
If your in the area this climb is a must do.
Beware of Rattle Snakes!
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Ejesta - Replaced the anchor on pitch 2 on 4/01.Thank you Jerry Anderson!
The incredible Pitch 2 splitter is hidden.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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