Ejesta, Reed's Pinnacle 5.8

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (3.1)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
8 Total Ratings
5 star: 13%  (1)
4 star: 25%  (2)
3 star: 38%  (3)
2 star: 13%  (1)
1 star: 13%  (1)
fatolive

Big Wall climber
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   Apr 5, 2011 - 10:43am
The first belay is not bad. Bad belays are ones where you are hanging for six hours in extreme pain. This is a nice belay. There ain't mermaids feeding you grapes or nothing, but pretty comfy. Two ropes was nice for the rap, but maybe not necessary.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Jun 1, 2001 - 09:48am
ANCHOR CONDITIONS

The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>

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Ejesta - Replaced the anchor on pitch 2 on 4/01.Thank you Jerry Anderson!
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Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
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   Jun 24, 2002 - 09:49am
We did this route in two pitches, on the first pitch (5.8) direct start there are a few loose blocks but the pro is decent.
Belay in the corner not at the start of the 2nd pitch cracks. The second pitch is great, some fine crack climbing. The crack goes wide at the top, 2 #4 Camalots would be the best for this section. The traverse to the anchors is exciting.
If your in the area this climb is a must do.
Beware of Rattle Snakes!
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Charlie

Novice climber
San Mateo
Oct 28, 2002 - 03:57pm
 
I loved this climb. I found the first pitch to be a bit awkward but fun. Second pitch is great; excellent hand jams and lay backs; protects very well. The traverse is awesome to a great ledge. High in the corner at the beginning of the ledge is a small pocket which takes a small alien (check the picture in the SuperTopo). A somewhat airy (2 rope) rap finishes a great route.
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Steve Cassels

Novice climber
San Mateo
Nov 4, 2002 - 02:59pm
 
Wear a helmet, prevent needless injury! Route starts at the dead tree to the left of the huge alcove/roof .2 pitches belay in corner. Watch for loose rock at belay station. The second pitch is the money pitch. Wide at the top BD 1-3.5, 2-4's and / or 1-5. Protect your second on the traverse. 2 rope rap on bomber hangers (triple fisherman with backup overhand OK). Watch the flakes when pulling your rope.
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sixleggedinsect

Trad climber
Oct 6, 2005 - 01:24pm
 
if you're the kind of person who thinks climbing bishop's terrace in one pitch is a good idea (it is, by the way), then you should do ejesta as one too. the first pitch is lame, the anchor means extra gear and extra time. the second is great. just run them together.
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Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
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   Feb 5, 2007 - 01:46pm
this route can be done in one pitch with 70M rope. You can also use one 70M rope to rapel to the ledge 20 above the ground and than do some class 4 downclimb.
Nice route 5.7
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Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Jun 16, 2009 - 08:50pm
 
I did it in one long pitch with a 60M rope , barely any rope left though.

I rapped one 60M rope to the top of some blocks , and did somewhat sketchy 5.6 downclimb to get on the ground. May or may not be worth it to not have to bring a second rope .

A fun route.
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Mar 18, 2010 - 07:15pm
The second half of the first pitch has an off-finger/very thin hands crack which is where the fun begins. We climbed the route in two pitches and next time I'd do it in one because the first belay was less than ideal. We belayed at the corner to the left with pro in slightly decomposing flakes held in by loose dirt and other flakes. Also, we noticed a very large stacked block which creates the start of the second pitch held in by some loose blocks and dirt. Heads up because one day that thing is going to go. But the hands on that second pitch are excellent. Despite the loose blocks, dirt, and unappealing first 50 feet, I'm surprised this climb only gets three stars.
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The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Apr 7, 2011 - 02:19am
 
I have to wonder where Simmeron belayed. I don't remember sketchy gear at the 1st anchor or a scary loose block starting the second pitch.

Love this route!
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Vinnie-

climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Nov 14, 2011 - 01:01pm
We did this with a 60 meter rope, split it into two pitches and used an intermediate rap station to get to the ground. The lower anchor is off to the side, so a bit of swinging was required. They look new and shiny, and I'm pretty sure they're not in the book.
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ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 14, 2011 - 09:14pm
 
Hey Vinnie, the midway rap station you used to get off of "Ejesta"is an anchor for a two pitch climb we put up last year called "Dr. Fun Time". It takes the overhanging crack up to the pillar with the bolt station (5.10d). The next pitch flips around the arete to the left(wild move 5.10c) and up cracks to join Ejesta at the ledge, just left of the anchors. It was not intended as a midway rap station but glad it came in handy. - Eric Gabel
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donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 14, 2011 - 09:41pm
 
There are a number of Valley climbs that should be named Ejecta.
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Reed's Pinnacle - Ejesta 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The incredible Pitch 2 splitter is hidden.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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