The bolts are still there. Did this route twice in the last few weeks.
The crux of the route is at the top just below dark colored knobs/chickenheads where the crack pinches down to a seam. From the top of the seam, move up and left approximately 8 feet through 5.3 knobs to a two bolt anchor/rap.
I love a route with 2 cracks! You get double hand jams and stemming - yea! I did this on TR after leading Nurdle, but will do it on lead next time. The lower part is 5.9, protects well, and you get those nice stemming rests. The crux is a one move wonder. I did a lieback on the thin far right crack and reached up for the jug. Very fun. Will be thinking about this climb for a while...
There is a shared anchor/rap station for Nurdle/Knob Job P1
As far as I know bolts was not chopped, because they never existed, at least they not shown on topo. To rap down you should continue traverse left to Sherie's crack bolts, or climb second pitch of Nurdle.
When I climb this climb oct 2007 it was some slings around the block at the end of Knob Job, and they gone in December
What's the deal with the anchors for this climb? Got to the end of the first pitch and there were some nasty slings around what was less than a solid block. I could see two empty bolt holes. Being such a popular climb, I can't see the point in chopping these.
Did this climb 3/13/04, what a great climb! Did it to the flake which is slightly above the top of "Sherie's Crack" There are three cracks which go harder and harder as you go up, 5.8, 5.9 and 5.10. You start in a slot at the bottom of the left most crack. Large knobs provide rests along the way. One really superb rest just below the crux. I got very good pro at the top of the middle crack before reaching out right and grabbing the right most crack high up. Keeping the right foot smearing on the beautiful frictiony granite and slowly standing up, laybacking, left foot eventually on the prominent black knob, then standing up some more, until grabbing the rail on top of the blocky knob. Then you're through! put some directionals if you traverse off left to the flake. I wrapped my cordelette around the flake and redirected the rope through a large cam (light blue Metolius) just behind the flake.
I'd recommend this, it is not too hard and protects well.
I really liked this climb, easy climbing to great hands until you have to switch cracks. Switch cracks, and get on top of the jugs, a thin crack takes you to some more jugs and reach right to another crack/flake and go for the huge jugs. Head up to the top of the first pitch of Nurdle, belay here. You can get several #3 camalots deep in the crack or some smaller gear for the bealy. Traverse over to the top of Sherie's crack to rap off. One rope.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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