Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Did this climb 3/13/04, what a great climb! Did it to the flake which is slightly above the top of "Sherie's Crack" There are three cracks which go harder and harder as you go up, 5.8, 5.9 and 5.10. You start in a slot at the bottom of the left most crack. Large knobs provide rests along the way. One really superb rest just below the crux. I got very good pro at the top of the middle crack before reaching out right and grabbing the right most crack high up. Keeping the right foot smearing on the beautiful frictiony granite and slowly standing up, laybacking, left foot eventually on the prominent black knob, then standing up some more, until grabbing the rail on top of the blocky knob. Then you're through! put some directionals if you traverse off left to the flake. I wrapped my cordelette around the flake and redirected the rope through a large cam (light blue Metolius) just behind the flake.
I'd recommend this, it is not too hard and protects well.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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I really liked this climb, easy climbing to great hands until you have to switch cracks. Switch cracks, and get on top of the jugs, a thin crack takes you to some more jugs and reach right to another crack/flake and go for the huge jugs. Head up to the top of the first pitch of Nurdle, belay here. You can get several #3 camalots deep in the crack or some smaller gear for the bealy. Traverse over to the top of Sherie's crack to rap off. One rope.
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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A fantastic moment for your mind.
-D
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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As far as I know bolts was not chopped, because they never existed, at least they not shown on topo. To rap down you should continue traverse left to Sherie's crack bolts, or climb second pitch of Nurdle.
When I climb this climb oct 2007 it was some slings around the block at the end of Knob Job, and they gone in December
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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What's the deal with the anchors for this climb? Got to the end of the first pitch and there were some nasty slings around what was less than a solid block. I could see two empty bolt holes. Being such a popular climb, I can't see the point in chopping these.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Great cracks and knobs
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
