Did Boneheads again yesterday 12/23/06. All dry even though many other routes were wet (including the undercling roof of Babble On). A couple pieces of beta:
if you don't want to do the (kind of contrived) 10b start, it's easy to solo the right side of the flake to get to the first bolt on the upper pillar (5.7 hands then easy traverse), or much better, do the direct start up the initial lieback of Babble On (5.9, a few pieces of 2-4" gear).
on the upper pillar, it's best to use a long draw (shoulder-length) on the second bolt to reduce rope drag.
I find the upper pillar to be 5.9 for my height (6').
Did this today, 3/7/04, nice bolts! thanks Brutus. I didn't have problems at any of the cruxes marked in the SuperTopo topo, the most difficulty I encountered was between the 1st and 2nd bolt, mostly finding my way up on poor hands and not great feet. First went left, then went right, what worked was pretty much going up straight.
The climb cruises after that, to the top. I didn't think that the 5.10a at the top was that hard. You can rap to the ground with one rope and top rope it (use your own draws! last person up can lower on the gear, this will extend the lifetime of the chains a bit).
Replaced anchors at the top of Boneheads, Pat & Jack Pinnacle area on 05/24/03.
Belay/rap anchor was two ¼” x 1.25” buttonheads with Leeper Hangers and one 3/8” bolt of unknown origin and depth.
Pulled both buttonheads (one pulled easily with tuning fork only) and placed 3/8” by 3.5” Fixe SS-jacketed studs using the same holes.
Installed stainless steel Mailons on both new bolts, as well as onto the end of the chain on the existing 3/8" bolt, which was beginning to show slight wear from rapping, lowering and toproping.
All bolts on this climb are now 3/8".
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Photo: Chris McNamara
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