Did this today, 3/7/04, nice bolts! thanks Brutus. I didn't have problems at any of the cruxes marked in the SuperTopo topo, the most difficulty I encountered was between the 1st and 2nd bolt, mostly finding my way up on poor hands and not great feet. First went left, then went right, what worked was pretty much going up straight.
The climb cruises after that, to the top. I didn't think that the 5.10a at the top was that hard. You can rap to the ground with one rope and top rope it (use your own draws! last person up can lower on the gear, this will extend the lifetime of the chains a bit).
Did Boneheads again yesterday 12/23/06. All dry even though many other routes were wet (including the undercling roof of Babble On). A couple pieces of beta:
if you don't want to do the (kind of contrived) 10b start, it's easy to solo the right side of the flake to get to the first bolt on the upper pillar (5.7 hands then easy traverse), or much better, do the direct start up the initial lieback of Babble On (5.9, a few pieces of 2-4" gear).
on the upper pillar, it's best to use a long draw (shoulder-length) on the second bolt to reduce rope drag.
I find the upper pillar to be 5.9 for my height (6').
Thanks Brutus for the good anchor bolts!
Photo: Chris McNamara
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