This route had it's moments, but I didn't find enough continuous good climbing for it to warrant 4 stars. I am 5'7", and had to make an off balance lunge to make it through the crux. The flared OW/chimney was strenuous, but did have a good hand crack in the back for gear and jams. Finger crack above started with a move or two of fingers, then widened to off-fingers (I have relatively skinny fingers, so take this into consideration).
Since this climb is in the shade and has a very short approach, it is surprising that it wasn't done sooner. However, from the ground it doesn't really look like anything much.
Right from the start the climbing is interesting with moves that are harder than they look. I agree that the crux is pretty easy if you have long limbs. Turning out the "roof" isn't hard either, but the crack just above it offers a second crux.
Well worth doing.
Final note: Maybe I was the first to climb it this season, but the key finger jam at the top of the crux was filled with dirt. It might clog up again after a rain.
Enjoyable climb. I'm 6' foot tall so the crux move with a stem to the right made the move fairly easy. The 10a section above the chimney is intersesting. The chimney is not really a chimney but a flare with a bomber handcrack in the back. Would do the route again. Surprise the route wasn't done prior to 2001.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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