mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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i put another hanger on the bolt, so good to go!
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gregs
Trad climber
cotati,ca
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Enjoyable climb. I'm 6' foot tall so the crux move with a stem to the right made the move fairly easy. The 10a section above the chimney is intersesting. The chimney is not really a chimney but a flare with a bomber handcrack in the back. Would do the route again. Surprise the route wasn't done prior to 2001.
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
cotati,ca
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Since this climb is in the shade and has a very short approach, it is surprising that it wasn't done sooner. However, from the ground it doesn't really look like anything much.
Right from the start the climbing is interesting with moves that are harder than they look. I agree that the crux is pretty easy if you have long limbs. Turning out the "roof" isn't hard either, but the crack just above it offers a second crux.
Well worth doing.
Final note: Maybe I was the first to climb it this season, but the key finger jam at the top of the crux was filled with dirt. It might clog up again after a rain.
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ikellen
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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This route had it's moments, but I didn't find enough continuous good climbing for it to warrant 4 stars. I am 5'7", and had to make an off balance lunge to make it through the crux. The flared OW/chimney was strenuous, but did have a good hand crack in the back for gear and jams. Finger crack above started with a move or two of fingers, then widened to off-fingers (I have relatively skinny fingers, so take this into consideration).
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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good route that you can climb with a 70 meter rope BARELY.
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Osprey
climber
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From what I understand, the bolt was removed sometime in 2012.
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WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
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REGARDING THE ROUTE: Excellent route, I am 5'7 and didn't find the moves awkward...more exciting than anything else. Fun and balance-based moves with high quality and sustained variety. Great route.
REGARDING THE BOLT...I was down there the weekend of the 8th and 9th of Sept, 2012 and ran into a party that said the bolt had a hanger two weeks prior. HOWEVER, the bolt remains without hanger and there are placements for micro, micro gear right there...but did see someone zipper a few pieces during a fall. Moral of the story, use a nut that slides or a proper rivet hanger to protect it.
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.