Hanging Teeth, Five Open Books 5.8

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 2.0/5
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2 Total Ratings
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honeyham

Trad climber
CA
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    Jul 1, 2012 - 07:27pm
Super dirty. Bring slings. Long run outs not bad if you dont mind lybacking with little pro for a while.

Suggestion: climb something else like commitment way more fun.

If you climb it bring a tagline so you can rap down the walk off is long and the rap would only take a few minutes.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 27, 2008 - 08:41am
 
Great photo trip report on climbing all the Five Open Books routes in a Day

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=707959
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jun 5, 2003 - 02:25pm
 
The normal parking area for this climb, The Lower Yosemite Falls parking, is closed permanently. This means that to climb an routes and Five Open Books or Sunnyside Bench you need to park either at the Yosemite Lodge or Camp 4.
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Karl Lew

Trad climber
ca
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    Apr 30, 2003 - 08:36am
Well, yes. It has been a wet spring. Just did Hanging Teeth on 4/26/03 and it was... wet. slimy. grassy. mossy. And wonderfully challenging. Rechristened the climb as "Droooling Teeth 5.9+". Spring only.

Chimney was dry. 5.8 overhang crux after chimney was wet 'n slimy. Use BB's here. Camalot #2 first placement after roof. Although you might want your hand there. Well...you decide.

Very PG if you take Big Bros #2,3,4 and a BEEEEG cam (the red Friend, whatever that is). Double up on small to medium cams.

And stock up on Stain Stick for your clothes.

8*) Karl
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Five Open Books - Hanging Teeth 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.