I like this climb! Topo calls for wide gear. I took 2 #4's and a #5. I think 1 or 2 #4's would be ok. P1 is cruiser - short 5.4-5.7 pitch. P2 has short chimney that protects well - it is a little tricky to come out of the chimney and back to the low slab/lieback - but again you got good pro. The liebacks are super solid - trust them. The last part of P2 has a 5.8 lieback, but again - I had bomber #1 cam placed on long runner and felt great. The last pitch is fun - I thought the loose/rotten section was ok - good pro and rock felt solid - fun and steep topping out on big jugs. Will do again for sure. Will try Delinquent Checkup Var - that looks fun going left! Seems like a good place to rap off with 2 ropes - 3 raps to ground and avoid walk off...
edit - the last part of P2 is an undercling that moves into a lieback. Feels solid and you have excellent pro
Well, yes. It has been a wet spring. Just did Hanging Teeth on 4/26/03 and it was... wet. slimy. grassy. mossy. And wonderfully challenging. Rechristened the climb as "Droooling Teeth 5.9+". Spring only.
Chimney was dry. 5.8 overhang crux after chimney was wet 'n slimy. Use BB's here. Camalot #2 first placement after roof. Although you might want your hand there. Well...you decide.
Very PG if you take Big Bros #2,3,4 and a BEEEEG cam (the red Friend, whatever that is). Double up on small to medium cams.
The normal parking area for this climb, The Lower Yosemite Falls parking, is closed permanently. This means that to climb an routes and Five Open Books or Sunnyside Bench you need to park either at the Yosemite Lodge or Camp 4.
I did this route like 34 years ago... I had been climbing like a month... anyway, I remember climbing out right on an undercling and then around the corner up a lieback. I remember the undercling as being the hardest part. No one has mentioned the undercling, there is an undercling that heads out right for a few feet, isn't there? I have short arms and a long back, so maybe that's why I remember it, I have always been way uncomfortable in underclings!
Reminiscing, my buddy followed up the route with a day pack on, didn't look like much fun for him in that chimney. haha I only had a few small hexes and some nuts, I don't remember setting much pro (I actually can't remember setting any pro) other than tying off to the tree near the top. I'm sure I got something in somewhere. Those were the days, just jump on something and climb it, no worries about anything at all. haha
Photo: Chris McNamara
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