New Dimensions, Arch Rock 5.11a

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 80%  (4)
4 star: 20%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Dan McDevitt

Trad climber
yosemite
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   Mar 5, 2016 - 08:13pm
Mei, it was so nice talking with you!

Pep, afternoon workout
Pep, afternoon workout
Credit: Dan McDevitt
can it get much better? rap route via klemens escape
can it get much better? rap route via klemens escape
Credit: Dan McDevitt
Paula, graceful as a butterfly
Paula, graceful as a butterfly
Credit: Dan McDevitt

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Mei

Trad climber
I'm back!
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   Mar 4, 2016 - 01:58pm
Dan (I met you briefly a couple of weekends ago at Arch), thanks so much for your great work setting up the rappel anchors! I just did the route with your celebrated climbing model, Alexey, this past Sunday. We started around 3:15 and swung leads. Alexey linked P2&3, which seemed to be a good choice to me. And your anchors allowed us to get down quickly to pack up and hike out before the darkness set in. So, again, a hearty thank you!

Just read up a little on the history. Had no idea there was anything on the route that might have been man-made (chipped), if so, it was not obvious. But there is indeed a thankgod foot hold to the right just when the crack becomes very tight and when you need to get set up for the bomber exit lip. A welcome little feature, for sure.

Gina, nice job pushing yourself. It is helpful to have a partner whom you trust to help you clear the self doubt.
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Dan McDevitt

Trad climber
yosemite
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   Mar 4, 2016 - 09:38am
Great write up Gina, way to stick with it!
A couple years back i set up the route so it can be rappeled in two 33m raps. from top rap down to an anchor slightly east on klemens escape, then 33m to ground. please use these rappels so not to disturb the falcons (by walking off the top).
here's a few shots of my buddy Alexey, this is certainly one of the best routes in the world!
p.1
p.1
Credit: Dan McDevitt
p.2
p.2
Credit: Dan McDevitt
p.3
p.3
Credit: Dan McDevitt
last move crux
last move crux
Credit: Dan McDevitt
arch rock is currently closed due to the march 1st to august 1st falcon closure
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Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Mar 4, 2016 - 06:51am
 
Thanks, Gina. Cool reading and nice pics.
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Gina E.

Trad climber
Mar 4, 2016 - 06:43am
 
Check out this post for a write up about this route (with pictures): http://sinkerjams.com/2016/03/03/pushing-through-new-dimensions/
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Apr 15, 2009 - 03:34pm
 
Great discussion on the history of new dimensions - http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=832243
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deano

climber
sonora
Apr 3, 2009 - 01:02am
 
we linked the second and third to the good belay at the start of the crux pitch. worked very well but surfer bob led that pitch and he used very little protection. I would think- long runners on everything after the squeeze would work fine.
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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Jun 24, 2005 - 06:11pm
 
I've always climbed this as three pitchs by linking the last two. They link well, but the second belay is a hang. The other day I was at that belay, and while my foot was falling asleep, I considered the possibilities of linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches to get up to the nicer belay. My usual rack would work fine for this, but I wondered if there would be much rope drag. Anyone do it this way?

And is that bong above the exit a new addition? I don't remember it.
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poop*ghost

Trad climber
Denver, CO
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   Mar 22, 2004 - 02:22am
If you can stay on the "trail" that trends right as you approach the cliff, you may have better luck with the thick hedges of poison oak. Rob and I cleaned up the last rap station (to the right of the route), but the rusty quarter inch is in need of replacement.

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ClimbingHuman

Trad climber
Bay Area
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   Mar 21, 2004 - 04:00pm
The chimney is dry. The crux is passing thru the poison oak gauntlet on the approach. But seriously the pitch 4 crux is very doable if you find and use the little no hands rest ledge to depump and line up your gear.
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pbjosh

Trad climber
Jun 20, 2003 - 12:52pm
 
I found the first pitch to be very burly for 5.10b!
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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
May 13, 2003 - 05:53pm
 
A great climb with a great history.

It is easy to do this climb as three or even two pitches.

The chimneys/flares have hand cracks in the back and so are friendly. Used one #4 Friend and several finger to hand size pieces. The lower chimney was wet all this spring, but the rest of the route was dry.

The final finger crack is very good and has better jams and stances than you might think if you keep your eyes peeled for the small stuff.
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Arch Rock - New Dimensions 5.11a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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