deano
climber
sonora
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we linked the second and third to the good belay at the start of the crux pitch. worked very well but surfer bob led that pitch and he used very little protection. I would think- long runners on everything after the squeeze would work fine.
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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I've always climbed this as three pitchs by linking the last two. They link well, but the second belay is a hang. The other day I was at that belay, and while my foot was falling asleep, I considered the possibilities of linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches to get up to the nicer belay. My usual rack would work fine for this, but I wondered if there would be much rope drag. Anyone do it this way?
And is that bong above the exit a new addition? I don't remember it.
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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If you can stay on the "trail" that trends right as you approach the cliff, you may have better luck with the thick hedges of poison oak. Rob and I cleaned up the last rap station (to the right of the route), but the rusty quarter inch is in need of replacement.
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ClimbingHuman
Trad climber
Bay Area
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The chimney is dry. The crux is passing thru the poison oak gauntlet on the approach. But seriously the pitch 4 crux is very doable if you find and use the little no hands rest ledge to depump and line up your gear.
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pbjosh
Trad climber
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I found the first pitch to be very burly for 5.10b!
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
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A great climb with a great history.
It is easy to do this climb as three or even two pitches.
The chimneys/flares have hand cracks in the back and so are friendly. Used one #4 Friend and several finger to hand size pieces. The lower chimney was wet all this spring, but the rest of the route was dry.
The final finger crack is very good and has better jams and stances than you might think if you keep your eyes peeled for the small stuff.
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
