New Dimensions, Arch Rock 5.11a

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (4.7)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
poop*ghost

Trad climber
Denver, CO
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   Mar 22, 2004 - 02:22am
If you can stay on the "trail" that trends right as you approach the cliff, you may have better luck with the thick hedges of poison oak. Rob and I cleaned up the last rap station (to the right of the route), but the rusty quarter inch is in need of replacement.

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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
Denver, CO
May 13, 2003 - 05:53pm
 
A great climb with a great history.

It is easy to do this climb as three or even two pitches.

The chimneys/flares have hand cracks in the back and so are friendly. Used one #4 Friend and several finger to hand size pieces. The lower chimney was wet all this spring, but the rest of the route was dry.

The final finger crack is very good and has better jams and stances than you might think if you keep your eyes peeled for the small stuff.
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pbjosh

Trad climber
Jun 20, 2003 - 12:52pm
 
I found the first pitch to be very burly for 5.10b!
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ClimbingHuman

Trad climber
Bay Area
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   Mar 21, 2004 - 04:00pm
The chimney is dry. The crux is passing thru the poison oak gauntlet on the approach. But seriously the pitch 4 crux is very doable if you find and use the little no hands rest ledge to depump and line up your gear.
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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Jun 24, 2005 - 06:11pm
 
I've always climbed this as three pitchs by linking the last two. They link well, but the second belay is a hang. The other day I was at that belay, and while my foot was falling asleep, I considered the possibilities of linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches to get up to the nicer belay. My usual rack would work fine for this, but I wondered if there would be much rope drag. Anyone do it this way?

And is that bong above the exit a new addition? I don't remember it.
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deano

climber
sonora
Apr 3, 2009 - 01:02am
 
we linked the second and third to the good belay at the start of the crux pitch. worked very well but surfer bob led that pitch and he used very little protection. I would think- long runners on everything after the squeeze would work fine.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Apr 15, 2009 - 03:34pm
 
Great discussion on the history of new dimensions - http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=832243
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Arch Rock - New Dimensions 5.11a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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