Re-animator, Washington Column A3 5.8

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 2
  • 3
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  • 5
 (4.0)
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Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Apr 11, 2010 - 04:45pm
 
Just did it....SUPER COOL ROUTE!!!

The supertopo rack was nearly perfect. I would just have brought a couple more beaks (5-6 total) and 5 more rivit hangers (15 total).

The Hanging Curtain of Rock is one of the coolest pitches I have ever climbed.

All belays were bomber.

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The Dane M

Big Wall climber
Denmark
Feb 19, 2007 - 04:16pm
 
Changes on pitch 5: Reachy hook gone!

A friend read about Re-animator in here. And I realized, I better tell the story:
I am the one, who pulled of the reachy hook on Re-Animators 5. pitch.
Sorry, I must be to fat!

THE STORY:
I had placed a big fish-hook on top of the feature and was slowly climbing up my aiders. When my face was in front of the hook the feature I was hooking gave away. I fell and broke the wire around the first rivet. I flipped head down and luckily the second rivet and wire stoped my fall 20 feet down. My elbow got a blow, but was working. I pulled my self together and went back up. I looked for other possibilities, but there were non. I called down for the 6 mm drill (little bit smaller than 1/4"). I then drilled a hole an placed my Talon. I still could not reach the first head in the line, so I drilled another bat hook. From the last bat hook I could reach the head. I kept going up the head corner and placed the one bomber nut that pitch have got. I reached the anker.
At this point my two friends started talking about retreating. I had been climbing, falling, drilling on the pitch for 5 hours, and they were tired and most of all lost motivation. We had only had one day of rest since we climbed Mescalito. We agreed and went down.

But:
 I did NOT break or drill any part of the A3+ hooking. It was scetchy but do-able.
 I did pull of the reachy hook feature.
 I did PASS it afterwards, on two bat-hooks. Look and you will find them.

Maybe a better climber could have placed only one bathook, but I hope you will forgive me placing two ;-)

One question:
Is that A3 climbing or A4?
One bomber placement in 50 meters. Well the rivets held my fall, so they are bombers too ;-)

Climb well
Martin
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Mike.

climber
Sep 19, 2006 - 02:43pm
 
As of 2/06, very few fixed pins (maybe three) and many fixed heads.
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cybele

Trad climber
Psych hospital by day
Sep 19, 2006 - 02:39am
 
Two years ago, with splitter gear (esp. the smallest one), a few cam hooks, double ball nuts (blue and red), and lots of teeny HBs and RPs the route was leadable clean given the status of fixed gear at the time.
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Shane Chelone

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 13, 2005 - 06:43pm
 
Has anyone climbed it yet this summer? How's it look?
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spacemonkey

Big Wall climber
sweden
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jan 3, 2004 - 03:47am
Pitch 4. The A3+ hooking section seems like it is quite loose. Careful!

Belay bolts at some anchors need to be replaced soon, especially at belays 7 and 8.

The loose section on pitch 8 is not that bad. A 4.5 camalot is really good here, only placement for this cam on the route.

The hanging curtain does not harm the rope if you use long runners.

(june 2003)
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John O'Connor

Boulder climber
Fort Fun
Apr 6, 2003 - 06:58pm
 
Has this route ever gone clean? Just curious, what would be the crux "clean" aid pitch?
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Ryan

Novice climber
Fort Fun
Jun 11, 2002 - 11:26am
 
1 more thing about the re-animator. When you turn the rock curtain on pitch 9 you lay your rope over a nasty edge. long slings, padding, and duct tape will protect the second here. I was being a gumby soloist and just about chopped my rope on this edge while jugging. See the photo gallery picture of the hanging curtain, and the edge going up and left at a 45 degree angle or so to meet the curtain is the one I'm talking about.
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Ryan

Novice climber
Fort Fun
Jun 11, 2002 - 11:18am
 
Just did the re-animator in late May 2002. All heads were fixed at the time. Consequently pitches 1-9 went with 1 piton placement (#3 KB high on pitch 9). Pitch 10 took another 5 pins for lack of small tricams and loweballs. THIS CLIMB WILL GO CLEAN (apart from potential head blowouts) The first 9 pitches are no harder clean than they would be nailing (again, fixed heads). Head up with the intention of doing it clean with the exception of replacing blown heads. Backup nailing rack should be: 3 KB's (1ea. #3-#5), 3 LA's (1ea. #2-#4), 4 sawed angles (1ea. .5"-1") and a bunch o' heads in case lots blow. As far as hooks go, no big hook needed, double cliffhanger and grappling are good, 1 talon and 1 bathook cover the small end. Double narrow camhooks is good, then 1 wider and 1 micro will do ya. Bring small tricams, loweballs, wildcountry zero cams, and splittergear micro 2cams and this climb will go clean other than the heads.
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Washington Column - Re-animator A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The steepest route on the Column.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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