A friend read about Re-animator in here. And I realized, I better tell the story:
I am the one, who pulled of the reachy hook on Re-Animators 5. pitch.
Sorry, I must be to fat!
I had placed a big fish-hook on top of the feature and was slowly climbing up my aiders. When my face was in front of the hook the feature I was hooking gave away. I fell and broke the wire around the first rivet. I flipped head down and luckily the second rivet and wire stoped my fall 20 feet down. My elbow got a blow, but was working. I pulled my self together and went back up. I looked for other possibilities, but there were non. I called down for the 6 mm drill (little bit smaller than 1/4"). I then drilled a hole an placed my Talon. I still could not reach the first head in the line, so I drilled another bat hook. From the last bat hook I could reach the head. I kept going up the head corner and placed the one bomber nut that pitch have got. I reached the anker.
At this point my two friends started talking about retreating. I had been climbing, falling, drilling on the pitch for 5 hours, and they were tired and most of all lost motivation. We had only had one day of rest since we climbed Mescalito. We agreed and went down.
I did NOT break or drill any part of the A3+ hooking. It was scetchy but do-able.
I did pull of the reachy hook feature.
I did PASS it afterwards, on two bat-hooks. Look and you will find them.
Maybe a better climber could have placed only one bathook, but I hope you will forgive me placing two ;-)
Is that A3 climbing or A4?
One bomber placement in 50 meters. Well the rivets held my fall, so they are bombers too ;-)
Two years ago, with splitter gear (esp. the smallest one), a few cam hooks, double ball nuts (blue and red), and lots of teeny HBs and RPs the route was leadable clean given the status of fixed gear at the time.
Has this route ever gone clean? Just curious, what would be the crux "clean" aid pitch?
Jun 11, 2002 - 11:26am
1 more thing about the re-animator. When you turn the rock curtain on pitch 9 you lay your rope over a nasty edge. long slings, padding, and duct tape will protect the second here. I was being a gumby soloist and just about chopped my rope on this edge while jugging. See the photo gallery picture of the hanging curtain, and the edge going up and left at a 45 degree angle or so to meet the curtain is the one I'm talking about.
Just did the re-animator in late May 2002. All heads were fixed at the time. Consequently pitches 1-9 went with 1 piton placement (#3 KB high on pitch 9). Pitch 10 took another 5 pins for lack of small tricams and loweballs. THIS CLIMB WILL GO CLEAN (apart from potential head blowouts) The first 9 pitches are no harder clean than they would be nailing (again, fixed heads). Head up with the intention of doing it clean with the exception of replacing blown heads. Backup nailing rack should be: 3 KB's (1ea. #3-#5), 3 LA's (1ea. #2-#4), 4 sawed angles (1ea. .5"-1") and a bunch o' heads in case lots blow. As far as hooks go, no big hook needed, double cliffhanger and grappling are good, 1 talon and 1 bathook cover the small end. Double narrow camhooks is good, then 1 wider and 1 micro will do ya. Bring small tricams, loweballs, wildcountry zero cams, and splittergear micro 2cams and this climb will go clean other than the heads.
The steepest route on the Column.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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