Did the route yesterday, pretty much as per supertopo. Simuled first 4 or 5 pitches. Noted 3 pitons near the top of pitch 11 (?) -- the loose 5.6 gully. Kind of at the start of the 40' "steep/sustained 5.7" pitch where the route rejoins the arete after the Ibrium tower.
When you come to the sketchy seeming rap station, continue on exposed trail a ways further right and down, and eventually, you'll come to a pretty solid rap station of a large block w/ good new slings (presently) backed up to nut on the wall behind.
A big 5.8. Fun, with more loose rock than indicated in the description above.
The snow slope below the base was tracked out--we walked up in approach shoes. See Venusian Blind Arete beta for more info.
Descent rap into Contact Pass: We rapped 100' trending to skier's right, ending up at a ledge/corner with further scrambling skier's right to the ground. I did pass a second station which I assume would get ya to the ground if using a single 50-60m rope. More banter about this section can be found in the Venusian Blind Arete beta.
We climbed Moon Goddess on Saturday. I have the corrections for the topo and suggestions. It was 4:10 from car to start climbing. We finished the 15th, 4:30 later and passed two parties. Fifteen hours round trip with a nap at Third Lake. The times are about right.
The topo detail of the upper pitches is misnumbered. They should be 12 to 15. Also, 12 to 15 angles up more than indicated and is not a flat traverse. I was going up and over or around blocks with dropoffs on both sides. Pitch 11 is more steps and ledges, and did not appear as a wide gulley.
The best descent rappel anchor goes directly to the highest point at Contact Pass. There were a couple including a ring piton setup. (How old is that?)
The route as seen from Second Lake.
Photo: SP Parker
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