Moon Goddess Arete, Temple Crag 5.8

 
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High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 3, 2003 - 12:44am
 
I just got this beta from a supertopo user:

We climbed Moon Goddess on Saturday.  I have the corrections for the topo and suggestions.  It was 4:10 from car to start climbing.  We finished the 15th, 4:30 later and passed two parties.  Fifteen hours round trip with a nap at Third Lake.  The times are about right.

The topo detail of the upper pitches is misnumbered.  They should be 12 to 15.  Also, 12 to 15 angles up more than indicated and is not a flat traverse.  I was going up and over or around blocks with dropoffs on both sides.  Pitch 11 is more steps and ledges, and did not appear as a wide gulley.

The best descent rappel anchor goes directly to the highest point at Contact Pass.  There were a couple including a ring piton setup.  (How old is that?)

Joe

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TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
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   Jun 17, 2007 - 07:41pm
Do the thin crack that splits the tower. It's not too hard and has great exposure. Lots 'o fun.
Tony
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Mike.

climber
Jul 21, 2008 - 02:53am
 
A big 5.8. Fun, with more loose rock than indicated in the description above.

The snow slope below the base was tracked out--we walked up in approach shoes. See Venusian Blind Arete beta for more info.

Descent rap into Contact Pass: We rapped 100' trending to skier's right, ending up at a ledge/corner with further scrambling skier's right to the ground. I did pass a second station which I assume would get ya to the ground if using a single 50-60m rope. More banter about this section can be found in the Venusian Blind Arete beta.
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Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jul 11, 2009 - 05:54pm
 
When you come to the sketchy seeming rap station, continue on exposed trail a ways further right and down, and eventually, you'll come to a pretty solid rap station of a large block w/ good new slings (presently) backed up to nut on the wall behind.
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slobmonster

Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
Jul 12, 2009 - 02:05am
 
Caughtinside and I retooled that exact anchor last season. Good to hear the stopper is still there; the pitons are good, but (fairly obviously) old.
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rhyang

climber
SJC
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   Jul 10, 2011 - 11:42pm
Did the route yesterday, pretty much as per supertopo. Simuled first 4 or 5 pitches. Noted 3 pitons near the top of pitch 11 (?) -- the loose 5.6 gully. Kind of at the start of the 40' "steep/sustained 5.7" pitch where the route rejoins the arete after the Ibrium tower.
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Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Aug 15, 2011 - 01:12am
 
Pay special attention when traversing below the Ibrium Tower. There are a lot of loose blocks up high. Stay low here.
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Temple Crag - Moon Goddess Arete 5.8 - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Second Lake.
Photo: SP Parker
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