Nutcracker, Manure Pile Buttress 5.8

   
Search
Go

Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 2-4 hours
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 25 minutes
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 600'
Overview
Nutcracker is a classic due to its interesting history, very easy approach, and five great pitches of perfect Yosemite granite. While climbing the route one will encounter liebacking, hand jamming, finger jamming, delicate smearing and an exposed mantle crux. Nutcracker is a good increase in challenge following After Six and After Seven.
Photos - View all 42 photos of Nutcracker as: Thumbnails | Slideshow
Climber Beta on Nutcracker
  A total of (82) submissions of route beta on Nutcracker
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Nutcracker?

Yosemite Free Climbs
Find other routes like Nutcracker

 
History
It seems likely that weíll never know who discovered Manure Pile Buttress as a climbing objective. Back in the mid-1960s a dirt track led directly to its base from the main Valley road below the Lower Brother, but this side trail seemed to lead only to a gigantic pile of horseshit, for this is where flunkies from the Valley stables deposited it, far from tourists with sensitive noses. Manure Pile Buttress was also known as Ranger Rock, and Camp 4 climbers in the 1960s knew that rangers often practiced their rescue techniques there. What with the stench and the possibility of encountering authority, local Valley hotshots stayed far away. Yet itís likely that weekenders played around on the lower section, a non-threatening beginnersí area.

The first complete route, as far as is known, was the brainchild of Yvon Chouinard, who in June 1965 took a beautiful eastern climber, Ruth Schneider, up the most obvious line, named After Six since thatís when they started (six in the evening, one might add, not morning). This climb attracted immediate attention for two reasons: it was fun, and it was one of the few Valley climbs where the belayer could sit in the front seat of a car. After Six soon became the most sociable of climbs; beer-guzz...   [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read the complete route history, the recommended strategy for climbing this route, and useful tips should you need to retreat.
Approach
Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read this route's approach information.
Descent
Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read this route's descent information.
Everything You Need to Know About Yosemite Valley
Search the internet for beta on Nutcracker
  Search the internet for information on Nutcracker
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: November 12, 2012
Manure Pile Buttress - Nutcracker 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Nutcracker offers six pitches of clean and aesthetic jams.
Photo: Todd Snyder
Other Routes on Manure Pile Buttress
Manure Pile Buttress - After Six 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
After Six, 5.7
Manure Pile Buttress
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

After Six is the left start.
Manure Pile Buttress - After Seven 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
After Seven, 5.8
Manure Pile Buttress
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

After Seven is the starting variation on the right.
Manure Pile Buttress - Hayley's Comet 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Hayley's Comet, 5.10a
Manure Pile Buttress
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Manure Pile Buttress - C.S. Concerto 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
C.S. Concerto, 5.8
Manure Pile Buttress
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Manure Pile Buttress - Fecophilia 5.9 R - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Fecophilia, 5.9 R
Manure Pile Buttress
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

More routes on Manure Pile Buttress
SuperTopo on the Web