After Six, Manure Pile Buttress 5.7 |
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Yosemite Valley, California USA | ||
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Avg time to climb route: 2-4 hours
Approach time: 5 minutes Descent time: 25 minutes Number of pitches: 6 Height of route: 600' Overview
With six pitches of moderate cracks and a short approach, After Six is the most popular 5.7 route in Yosemite. A step up in difficulty from Munginella, After Six is varied, fun, and amazingly consistent in difficulty throughout the route. It has a little bit of everything but is not overwhelming.
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History
The first ascent of the most popular Valley climb ever was an historic breakthrough, for it was one of the first routes done solely with nuts. Even though Royal Robbins had climbed twice in England by 1966, he hadn’t fully embraced nut use for Yosemite. Royal wrote in June 1966: “I think we can learn a lot from the British, and I see a place in the U. S. for the concept that placing a lot of pitons is not good style and also for the use of nuts at places like Tahquitz, where years of placing and removing pitons have worn the cracks so much as to change the routes.” In 1967 Robbins found a magnificent climb at Manure Pile Buttress to test his idea that nuts might be appropriate for Yosemite after all. He named his new route, in his usual punning mode, Nutcracker Sweet. Within months, those ignorant of Tchaikovsky had shortened the name simply to its first word, which is how it has remained for three decades. An unwritten rule, obeyed by virtually everyone, was that no piton should ever be driven into this route. Many a Valley climber learned how effective nuts could be (this was long before camming devices were available) and left pitons and hammers in camp. Robbins, the king of the big walls, had once again proved that he was the guiding light of 1960s Valley climbing.Climbers soon swarmed up other routes and variations on Manure Pile Buttress, and the ... [full history for SuperTopo members only!] Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read the complete route history, the recommended strategy for climbing this route, and useful tips should you need to retreat. Approach Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read this route's approach information.
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