Son of Heart, El Capitan A3+ 5.8

   
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 5 days
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 4 hours
Number of pitches: 29
Height of route: 2700'
Overview
Son of Heart is best known for its esthetic, imposing chimneys that can be easily seen from the ground. But, contrary to rumor, you do not have to be a chimney guru to get up this climb. The Kirkaguard Chimney, midway up the route, surprisingly requires only thirty feet of 5.8 Chimney climbing and offers a spectacular, hundred-foot 5.10 hand crack. This route offers plenty of free climbing (mostly 5.10 or C1) and moderate aid climbing and is a good alternative to more crowded trade routes. It is more difficult than Triple Direct, the same difficulty as The Shield and easier than Mescalito. Due to an overblown wide-crack reputation, you can expect to have this route to yourself - a rare opportunity on an El Cap line as classic as this. Nearly all of the aging and rusty bolts were replaced by the American Safe Climbing Assn. in 2001.
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Climber Beta on Son of Heart
  A total of (4) submissions of route beta on Son of Heart
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: November 1, 2014
El Capitan - Son of Heart A3+ 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Up the right side of The Heart.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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