Magic Mushroom, El Capitan A3 5.7
Avg time to climb route: 5 days
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 4 hours
Number of pitches: 31
Height of route: 2900'
OverviewLonger, more sustained, and much less crowded than The Shield, Magic Mushroom has what it takes to be a mega classic: fun climbing, deluxe bivy ledges, and the most direct route through The Shield Headwall. A little harder than The Shield, it is about the same difficulty as Mescalito.
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HistoryMagic Mushroom First Free Ascent
In May 2008, Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong completed the FFA of the Magic Mushroom. This line was originally attempted by two other teams, first the Huber brothers and also Adam Stack, with Stack working the route for two years.
Caldwell and Sjong swapped leads except on P20, 5.13d/5.14a, which Sjong was only able to follow 2/3rds of free. He toproped the remainder of the climbing on that pitch. The team encountered many technical and powerful chimneys. In June of that same year Caldwell, assisted by Beth Rodden, led all the pitches free in a single 20 hour push. A week before Caldwell's in-a-day send he spent nearly 24 hours fighting to the finish only to fall repeatedly before resorting to aid.
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