Magic Mushroom, El Capitan A3 5.7

    
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 5 days
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 4 hours
Number of pitches: 31
Height of route: 2900'
Overview
Longer, more sustained, and much less crowded than The Shield, Magic Mushroom has what it takes to be a mega classic: fun climbing, deluxe bivy ledges, and the most direct route through The Shield Headwall. A little harder than The Shield, it is about the same difficulty as Mescalito.
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Climber Beta on Magic Mushroom
  A total of (8) submissions of route beta on Magic Mushroom
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History
Magic Mushroom First Free Ascent
In May 2008, Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong completed the FFA of the Magic Mushroom. This line was originally attempted by two other teams, first the Huber brothers and also Adam Stack, with Stack working the route for two years.
Caldwell and Sjong swapped leads except on P20, 5.13d/5.14a, which Sjong was only able to follow 2/3rds of free. He toproped the remainder of the climbing on that pitch. The team encountered many technical and powerful chimneys. In June of that same year Caldwell, assisted by Beth Rodden, led all the pitches free in a single 20 hour push. A week before Caldwell's in-a-day send he spent nearly 24 hours fighting to the finish only to fall repeatedly before resorting to aid.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: February 16, 2011
El Capitan - Magic Mushroom A3 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
El Capitan - Freerider 5.12D - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Freerider, 5.12D
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Zodiac, A2 5.7
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
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