Loco Yokel, Medlicott Dome, Left 5.10d

   
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 30-40 minutes
Descent time: 1.5 hours
Number of pitches: 4
Height of route: 520'
Overview
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Jonathan duSaint, September 2007.

Burly, technical dihedral to a long pumpy lieback. Steep, powerful, and tenuous climbing up the initial dihedral is tightly protected with bolts and gear, and then a lieback with thin gear leads to a flake lieback pumpfest with bolts once the gear runs out. If lowering from the first pitch, it’s a couple feet longer than half a 60m rope. If continuing, the belay is basically a hanging belay and a butt-bag is nice.

The second pitch starts with thin moves that ease quickly to a cool, knobby, airy arête that is the left arête of the entire mile-long face of Medlicott.

You can just barely rap with a single 60m rope – tie knots in the ends.
Climber Beta on Loco Yokel
  A total of (1) submissions of route beta on Loco Yokel
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Loco Yokel?

Tuolumne Free Climbs
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Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Other guidebooks that include info on Loco Yokel
  • Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 25, 2003
Medlicott Dome, Left - Loco Yokel 5.10d - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Loco Yokel is just left of route E
Photo: Greg Barnes
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