Wholesome Fullback, Whiskey Peak 5.10a
Red Rocks, Nevada USA
Avg time to climb route: 1 hour
Approach time: 30 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 2
Height of route: 320'
OverviewOften overlooked, Wholesome Fullback is probably the best single pitch of 5.10a crack climbing in Red Rocks. The first pitch is awesome: thin finger crack right off the deck, splitter hand crack, a tricky face traverse under a small roof, a technical lieback/finger crack crux, and then seemingly endless perfect hand jams to a ledge 160 feet off the deck.
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HistoryThis is the same Lars Holbek who is famous in whitewater circles and who assures me that his frequently misspelled name should truly be “Holbek.” During one of his Red Rocks trips, Lars climbed with Mark Moore. They planned to hop a freight train and ride back to the Pacific Northwest. While still in Las Vegas, a guard was inspecting the cars and spotted Mark. Lars kept his head down and didn’t move. Somehow he was never spotted and only Mark was thrown off the train.
But the story has a twist. Mark stuck out his thumb to hitchhike and immediately got a ride. He beat the train to Mojave, where he was able to get back on and complete the trip. Ironically, Lars got off in Las Vegas to look for his friend, so the two climbers did not meet up again for several months.
– Larry DeAngelo
ApproachAccessed by an independent dirt road far from the gated Loop Road, Black Velvet Canyon is an easy and convenient area to approach. The obvious trail heads up from the parking area toward the mouth of the canyon. After a gentle climb, the trail splits—one branch dives down into the creek bed and the other climbs steeply up left to Frogland. The trail bypasses a small cliff band to the left, then contours right through brush to the base of Frogland, which is easy to spot by a 30-foot-tall white flake at the base of a big, brown left-facing corner. The Whiskey Peak crag routes begin 100 yards to the right.
DescentDescend all routes by rappelling. Follow the same trail back to the car.
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