Only the Good Die Young, Whiskey Peak 5.11c
Avg time to climb route: 2-3 hours
Approach time: 35 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 350'
OverviewWildly steep yet tucked away out of sight, Only the Good Die Young is easily the most neglected classic of its grade in Red Rocks. Quick to access and fairly short, and just across the way from the super-popular Black Velvet Wall, many strong parties will easily combine Only the Good Die Young with other routes in a day. Since the cruxes are very tightly bolted, those at their limit can easily work through the difficulties. Previously, with terrible rusty 1/4" bolts and no topo, it saw little traffic; thanks to the ASCA's replacement of all the bolts in Oct. 2001, this classic route will get the attention it deserves.
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StrategyWhile the climb is five pitches, all are short, and as it is overhung right off the deck, warming up on the classic crack climbs around to the left is recommended. With the high grade other parties are a rarity.
The 5.11 sections are all bolt ladders. However, the 5.10d crux right off the deck is pretty tricky so be careful. To reduce rope drag on the fourth pitch, consider reaching back and unclipping the first bolt on the traverse, and also just skipping the last bolt on... [full history for SuperTopo members only!]
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