West Face Couloir, Mount Huntington V, 85-degree ice


Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 12-24 hours
Approach time: 1-2 hours
Descent time: 8-14 hours
Number of pitches: N/A
Height of route: 3,250'
Upon seeing Mount Huntington for the first time, it’s hard to imagine there to be any easy way to access its perfect pyramidal summit. The north face is dominated by massive hanging glaciers and huge seracs. The eastern face is a complicated façade of steep buttresses above impassable glaciers. And the west face, the most often photographed, is a steep and seemingly impenetrable fortress of rock and ice. On this wall, however, there exists a hidden ice couloir that splits the striated rock to allow a cunning passage to the summit of this stately mountain. The West Face Couloir is a straightforward ice climb with easy access, a short approach, and an uncomplicated descent. Although not as inspiring a line as the neighboring Harvard Route, this is the line that will get you to the summit.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: May 2, 2014
Mount Huntington - West Face Couloir V, 85-degree ice - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
An overview of the line.
Photo: Joe Puryear
Other Routes on Mount Huntington
Mount Huntington - Harvard Route VI, 5.9, A2, 70-degree ice - Alaska, USA. Click for details.
Harvard Route, VI, 5.9, A2, 70-degree ice
Mount Huntington
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An overview of the line.
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