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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

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      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
South Early Winters Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Direct East Buttress
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0, South Early Winters Spire

The soaring East Butress of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Andrew Burr
South Early Winters Spire
10
IV 5.11a or 5.10a C0
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Northwest Face III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Face
III 5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.11a
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Couloir II 5.0 40º - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Couloir
II 5.0 40, South Early Winters Spire

Kurt Hicks approaching the Southwest Couloir under typical early season conditions
Photo:Chris Kouba
South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.0 40
4 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - The First Amendement IV 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The First Amendement
IV 5.11a, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
10
IV 5.11a
3 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - East Face IV 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
IV 5.9+, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower East Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
9
IV 5.9+
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Hitchhiker
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.11b or 5.10d C1
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Passenger IV 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Passenger
IV 5.12a, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Southern Man IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Southern Man
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1, South Early Winters Spire

Joel Kauffman launching into the unknown during the first ascent of The Southern Man
Photo:Mark Allen
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a or 5.10a C1
5 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III+ 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
9
III+ 5.7
2 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Ultra Mega OK III+ 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Ultra Mega OK
III+ 5.11a, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Ultra Mega OK
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
9
III+ 5.11a
2 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arête III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Spontaneity Arête
III 5.7, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
8
III 5.7
4 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Action Potential III 5.10c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Action Potential
III 5.10c, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Action Potential
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
8
III 5.10c
3 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - Tooth and Claw IV 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Tooth and Claw
IV 5.12a, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower when viewed from the East
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
8
IV 5.12a
4 Star Rating
Serpentine Crack
III 5.11b/c, Liberty Bell


Photo:
Liberty Bell
8
III 5.11b/c
4 Star Rating
Big Kangaroo - Kearney-Thomas III 5.11b or 5.10b C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Kearney-Thomas
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1, Big Kangaroo

Big Kangaroo
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Big Kangaroo
8
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1
4 Star Rating
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