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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


Features only available in eBooks:  
Always Fresh™ — free updates for three years

Immediately ready for download (no shipping charges)


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
South Early Winters Spire - Liberty Traverse V 5.8-5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Traverse
V 5.8-5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

Less traveled section between Lexington and N.E.W.S. Rappel at far end of ledge in middle of photo.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
24
V 5.8-5.11a
5 Star Rating
Juno Tower - Clean Break IV 5.10b/c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Clean Break
IV 5.10b/c, Juno Tower

Tino Villanueva leads up the amazing Pitch 1 of Clean Break
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Juno Tower
15
IV 5.10b/c
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Liberty Crack 5.9 C2 or 5.13b - North Cascades, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Liberty Crack
5.9 C2 or 5.13b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Liberty Crack
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
5.9 C2 or 5.13b
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom or Death III or V 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom or Death
III or V 5.12a, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom or Death
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
III or V 5.12a
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom Rider V 5.10d or 5.11b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom Rider
V 5.10d or 5.11b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom Rider
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10d or 5.11b
3 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10b C2+ or 5.13a/b
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10a or C3/A2 or 5.12b
5 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - North Ridge III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Ridge
III 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak North Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
13
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Thin Red Line V 5.10a C2+ - North Cascades, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Thin Red Line
V 5.10a C2+, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Thin Red Line
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
12
V 5.10a C2+
5 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress III+ 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Buttress
III+ 5.8, Cutthroat Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
12
III+ 5.8
4 Star Rating
Whine Spire - Gato Negro IV+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Gato Negro
IV+ 5.10d, Whine Spire

Whine Spire Gato Negro
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Whine Spire
12
IV+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
Poster Peak - Blue’s Buttress III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Blue’s Buttress
III+ 5.7, Poster Peak

Poster Peak and the Liberty Bell group from Kangaroo Pass.
Photo:Rob Schiesser
Poster Peak
11
III+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Flycatcher Buttress IV 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Flycatcher Buttress
IV 5.10b, North Early Winters Spire

The East Buttress’s of South and North Early Winters
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
11
IV 5.10b
3 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Rib III 5.8  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Southwest Rib
III 5.8 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.8
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - South Arete II 5.6  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Arete
II 5.6 , South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
II 5.6
5 Star Rating
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