Reed's Direct?

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Messages 1 - 61 of total 61 in this topic
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 2, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
When did you top out on it last? Myself, I can't remember...

Scuffy, yesterday
Scuffy, yesterday
Credit: Jaybro
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
1976. You mean some folks don't do the last pitch? The shame! The shame!
More Air

Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
Back in 1978...got some nice abrasions on my knees.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
1982.


But that was also the last time I did it.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
November 13th, 1993
At least for the first two pitches... :-)
Oh the shame...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
Is it easier or harder with a boombox on one's shoulder?
Mateo Pee Pee

Trad climber
Ivory Tower PDX
Nov 2, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
1973 or there about. Ed Barry's parents were in the Valley and they wanted to watch him climb. What better view than the Direct on Reed's? The only problem was Ed got really nervous climbing in front of his parents. So, I gladly accepted the offer to also lead the second pitch. For reasons I can't explain, waving to Ed's parents, I somehow felt compelled to demonstrate a leisurely climbing style that entailed tossing in my pro (a MOAC and a few stoppers) by just flipping them in from the end of the cords. This worked great for the 5.7 locker jams but upon reaching the wider section near the top of the pitch I looked down at a series of manky pieces and nearly tossed a wobbler clambering to the belay ledge. I led the last pitch to regain some composure but can only recall that it was a bit of a grunt. I also can't remember if Ed followed me or not as he was still freaked out by having his parents watching him. As always it was an adventure climbing with Ed.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Nov 2, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
1978. Loved it and hated it.
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Nov 2, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
1982

I was so proud of the rash I got the first time I did it in 1980. I was bummed when it healed
L

climber
Waist deep in 'gators and still grinnin'...
Nov 2, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiice booty--er--technique shot ya captured there, J-man.

Looks like a fun lead...in a scary-painful-sweaty-hand sort of way. ;-)
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Nov 2, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
73 when it was obligatory for the aspiring hard man.
HJ

climber
Bozeman, Montana
Nov 2, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
August "84. First climb I did in Yosemite. I don't think I knew what an offwidth was then. Probably called it a grovel. Went to the Cookie after that and got heat stroke on Waverly Wafer. That led to the discovery of Tuolumne, which for a northern boy was a very good thing.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
Really Hieronymous, first valley climb?

Too funny! Cheers!
Gobee

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Nov 2, 2009 - 08:34pm PT

Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Nov 2, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
Once, 1991... That was enough.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
Gob, with socks like that, you were destined for great things!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Nov 2, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
Topped out on it last time I climbed it, about 6 months ago.

You haven't done Reeds Direct unless you've topped out.
Which eliminates probably around 95% of those who've claimed an accent.

Their loss...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 2, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
Sometime in the late seventies. I bet lots of folks claim to have done the 3-D without the last pitch. Here is the Roper green guide description with my note on the last pitch just for Jim.

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
Nov 2, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
Dream Route-Too fat and out of shape to do it right now.....
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 2, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
What a cool pitch...



Like to go back and finish it off one of these days.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 2, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
Never been on it. Is it easy...?

Looks easy. Hahaahaaaaa. I'll do it, one of these days. I just never get over there enough....
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Nov 2, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
Been on it, well... not Direct.. but the left variation.... Looking up at that think... I thought "yeah, that looks doable..".... after a couple of days with Kevin over the Facelift weekend... I've reconsidered.. It's still doable, just not by me!

But if there was a great group of great folks want to head up there (with the exception this weekend).. I'd be game to take a crack! (no pun intended)
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Nov 2, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
Exactly, Stevie Grossman. Left Side in, third pitch. Namely that pitch that SOO many leave out. If you put your right side in, you will have a harder time, will not be able to use the crack on the wall on the right and your decision will seem lame eventually as you work up the feature.

Actually, in a kind of Come To Jesus Moment here, I never was that incredibly fond of the Triple Direct on Reeds. I did it many times of course and with a variety of characters and it is true that it is kind of a very unique "playground" kind of route. Maybe last time 1975.

I found the second pitch verged on tediousness. I know, IT IS A SPLITTER AND TAKES NUTS LIKE CRAZY and you can tunnel behind it, but it leans to the right for over a hundred feet, is a longish bunch of crazy simple perfection. But for me, I got bored with the lean, the kind of foggy-assed easy but very physical "nut-your-hand-and-pull" monkeybar climbing. It is surprising that there are NO holds on the main wall on the right. In fact now it is scraped all the way down to the white stone, visible from 10 miles away. I found the first pitch and the last pitch more interesting and I guess, more difficult, tricky and engaging.

It was first done in pieces. But finally in Fall of 1966, RR and Gordie Webster and Terry Burnell got it put together. Really picturesque, semi-steep and has a bitchy first pitch that noobies fall off of regularly, it is a three star plus route certainly. But for me it just was not that engaging.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 2, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
Steve I can't remember how I did it but I'll bet that most of today's climbers wouldn't call the third pitch 5.9 even if they had helium balloons attached to their cordellete/belay glove assemblage.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Nov 2, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
Done the second pitch dozens of times and even soloed the first pitch a time or two but only led the last pitch once. Enough is enough.

You can do the "Deer" route and tunnel up under and behing pitch 2. You might even scare the crap out of a climber on the outside by reaching through and grabbing their hand while they are climbing the Direct.

Tried to do the last pitch of the regular route tunnel through but couldn't get my fat ass though.. It was too tight!

Peace

Karl
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 3, 2009 - 12:11am PT
Are you sure that's not the Weasel Route, Karl?!?

Some folks just can't enough of that 3-D stuff!


Bob Gaines photo.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:07am PT
Last time I did the Triple Direct on Reed's was mid seventies.

That opening photo reminds me how much easier the crux is with that straight in thin crack to Gaston and protect in.

I agree with Peter on that second pitch - I never thought it was that great - the wide section at the end's a little awkward and out of character with the rest of the pitch, and all those pods are just too damn easy to jam in.

The first pitch is nice - short but sweet.

I remember some guy fell on the second pitch way up there, and his knot untied, or harness failed, but for some reason he was dragging a trail line which stacked up in the little bay tree at the bottom of the pitch as he plummeted past it, and snagged well enough in the branches to stop him a few feet off the deck. Crazy. He was basically unscathed as I remember.

I think the Left Side of Reed's is a more classic route, but not so high profile.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:25am PT
Some guy named Peter Mayfield (maysho), maybe.
http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=315847&msg=321019#msg321019
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:30am PT
Anders,

I vaguely remember that mishap also, but the one I mention above was even more phenomenal.

Werner probably remembers, or Chappy.
okie

Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:31am PT
I agree with Peter Haan, the 2nd pitch is not that great, aesthetically speaking. It is a very weird crack and not at all elegant in itself.
A friend was climbing this route once, placing nuts when to his shock a disembodied hand appeared from inside the crack and tossed his nuts out!!!
Yeah, that tunnel-behind gag was great for major yuks.
Oh yeah, I've never done this route, ever, in almost 30 years...because I haven't groveled up that OW...so can't claim an ascent. LOL
On a side note, has anyone done the LEFT side of Reeds? Now THATS a line...that chimney looks pretty damn scary, if you ask me. Its only Yosemite 5.8 for the first pitch but looks to be a back and foot solo type of thing...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:59am PT
I climbed all three pitches in the fall of
1967 with my friend Chuck Pratt. He asked me to
lead the third pitch, which I did with right side
in (facing left). I always liked being able to pull
sideways against the main wall, but perhaps it is
easier with left side in. I've done it several times
again, and each time I seemed to want to go right side
in. That day with Pratt was beautiful, a perfect
blue sky, just the right temperature. This was
the day Chuck made his famous statement, as he followed the
third pitch. At the hardest section a couple
body lengths below me, he said with a smile, "It
lends itself to technique."

Not too many days earlier, Chuck and I also did
the Left Side, with Mort Hempel.
Pratt led the crux and of course turned it into
a work of art.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 3, 2009 - 02:09am PT
Forgot - I've done the route three or four times, and quite like it. The second pitch is unusual for the Valley, in that for the most part it's a quite irregular-sided but vertical crack. Not your basic parallel sided unit. And as it's one the cover of the Stonemasters book - with a climber or two - that speaks for itself. I've only done the third pitch once that I can remember.

The 'clean streak' effect is undoubtedly there. You can see the white strip of the second pitch from quite a way, just as you can see Nutcracker, and a few other things. It would take a pretty sharp-eyed tourist to see, and distinguish, the strips from all other the colourful features on the rock in the Valley, though.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 3, 2009 - 02:22am PT
Not the full thing...

early 90s me thinks...




apparently I was fooling around too much posing....




cuz I fell...




Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Nov 3, 2009 - 02:44am PT
I've done the first two a number of times and the complete version a few times but to do the upper pitch for me anyway requires carrying a 6 inch cam that you donít need anywhere else. I know thatís pretty weak rationale but there it is. I also like linking pitch 1 and 2 and am finding it amazing that there are some out there that donít like pitch 2.

Credit: Hardly Visible

Back in 2005 when I was still a real man me and a kid named Cleaver did Chingado, Left Side of Reedís, Reedí Direct, Bongs Away Left and Center and that arch thingy that starts on Bongs Away Left in a day kind of the classic 10- and under wide tour up at Reedís.

Oakie you need to get on the Left Side itís got more pro then you might think and itís pretty high adventure for a two pitch route.

Here's a couple of not so great pictures from it:

Credit: Hardly Visible

Credit: Hardly Visible
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Nov 3, 2009 - 02:59am PT
Thanks for the correction Kevin, for the record, I did not fall on any pitch, but off of the belay flake on top of the first pitch.

Embarrassed to say, I have never done the third! So many times up the first two, and many times guiding to the top by tunneling through to the last part of the left side.

Have to correct that.

Peter
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2009 - 05:38am PT
emac

climber
New Hampshire
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:03am PT
That 3rd off-width pitch was a total grovel, and as an East coast face climber I may have actually cried near the top. I know I hyperventilated. Photo by Jim_E

scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Nov 3, 2009 - 11:31am PT
Both times I've done the last pitch, 1975 and a couple days ago, I did
it left side in and thought it was no harder than the 2nd pitch, at worst.
Actually, this time, I thought the 2nd pitch was harder.

I also thought, both times, that if you did it the "right" way it would
probably be 5.10. But why turn a 5.9 into a 5.10?

No gear bigger than a 6 1/2 Stopper, endwise, is needed. Where you would
use a big cam, if you did it right side in, there is a thin crack right
in your face, left side in.
okie

Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
Nov 3, 2009 - 11:53am PT
Thanks for the photos and bit'o'beta on that awesome looking left side, Hardly Visible!
I was looking at it last weekend. I don't think my partner wanted anything to do with even following that OW 2nd pitch but honestly I wasn't all that dissappointed she felt that way because I was scared of that gaping chimney which was black and evil-looking in the fading late afternoon light. I never said I was hard...LOL
Yeah, sometimes I just need a kick in the butt...er...encouragement...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Nov 3, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
When I did the third pitch with Pratt, I seem to remember I had
no large piton for that final off-width thing and how much
easier psychologically it would be with a big friend or something....
I understand now people climb the Twilight Zone with a big cam or
Friend they simply slide up with me all the way?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Nov 3, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
"Are you sure that's not the Weasel Route, Karl"

Probably is, Deer is just a name we came up with because it's Reed in reverse.

For mortal types with fortitude, it's fun to do that final pitch so you can throw a rope down the left side without having to sack up for yet another knarly lead.

I think left side in is the ticket cause there's a shallow crack out left to push on with your right foot if you go that way.

Peace

Karl

Richard on Reeds
Richard on Reeds
Credit: Karl Baba
OR

Trad climber
So.VT.
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
One of my fav's. I did the whole thing with that nut Mr.Way in like 1993. Does that guy still exists? If so does he still hang out in the Valley?
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
Have done it maybe 4 or 5 times, topped out all but once, led that last pitch a couple times.

First time on it, about a 5.9+ max guy at the time, no gear bigger than a 3.5 camalot. I was sucked too deep in the flare at the crux and couldn't stem to the seam on the right, so grabbed a little micro-chip on the wall to crimp to let me slide over more to the outside. Chip busted off, headfirst/backwards dive for about 20'. Got back up there and stayed farther out, felt miles easier.

I don't like the p2 either. Looks nice, but it's just physical, not really engaging.
Weenis

Trad climber
Tel Aviv
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
Pete Weenis @ Reeds, second pitch 1979
Pete Weenis @ Reeds, second pitch 1979
Credit: Weenis
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 3, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
On a hot summer day in the early 70s, I was cooling my heels waiting for my party to lead the second pitch. I wasn't belaying, and I was bored.

On a whim, I started chimney climbing the slab. The standard trick, as noted, is try to push your hand out and scare the crap out of someone on the 'right' side of the rock. However, rather than stay close to the crack, I angled up toward the base of the last pitch. I figured I could always chimney down if it got too narrow.

It is long, dark, and at places tight. I came out in the spacious tunnel that connects the right and left sides of the last pitch. I also have to go sideways at different places and work around chock stones. I found old slings on the tops of some of chockstones that had fallen off as someone chimneyed through the tunnel at the base of the last pitch.

There was enough light to dimly make out the chockstones. A headlight would be useful, but a helmet would definitely limit your progress. I don't think you could fall out, so the only reason to trail a rope is so that someone can find your decaying body.

I cannot say that I recommend this as a climb, but if you wiggle up inside Reeds, and meet your party on the main ledge, you will never be afraid of getting stuck in one of Harding's horror shows.

Karl, I know that we have discussed this before, but I don't remember the outcome: when you climbed DEER did you exist somewhere on the main ledge? Is there another way out the top besides the tunnel behind the last pitch?

I don't remember ever climbing the last pitch.
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Nov 3, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
The other day I started on the Left, and after the easy climbing to gain the chimney, proceeded up, over and down to the top of the first pitch of
the Direct. It gets dark in there, all right.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Nov 3, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
Probably early 80s, but only the first two pitches. I know this is considered blasphemy, but I always thought that second pitch was overrated.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 3, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
By Godfrey, i guess I better get the whiteout. Herbs said it counts, I should have insisted on grinding P3.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
scuffy topping out sans big peice- diligent belayer/photographers some...
scuffy topping out sans big peice- diligent belayer/photographers sometimes lop off heads.....
Credit: Jaybro
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 3, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
Scuffy's a badass....
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Nov 3, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
not so. The pitch is very well protected.
MH2

climber
Nov 3, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
Poor little famous roadside climb.

I'm sure I would have really dug it if its reputation had not preceded it.

The other guy had done the direct finish, so he squeezed through to the other side but scraped his camera off in the process, necessitating a visit to the Left Side, next. When we walked up to that thing my veneer of condescension peeled off.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
Scuffy, if you're in Josh this year we should do some routes. Eat turkey, climb, etc....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
Just checked Google Earth - The Fringe is visible from outer space, Reed's Direct less so.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
The Lunatic Fringe can be heard from space, too!
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:48pm PT
OK, I've never done last pitch. But some of you guys say its NTB. ? How would it compare to left side of Moby Dick for example(which I've done and didn't like - ha), just for comparison.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Nov 3, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
Left Side of Moby Dick is long but has no one move very difficult,
more of an endurance, with a lot of variety of chimney, stem, squeeze
things. The Right Side of Reeds is much more advanced, in terms of
being an off-width and requiring some true Yosemite crack technique,
it seems. Both, I guess, are 5.10, but I always though Righ Side was
more difficult.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 3, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
Left Side of Moby Dick was rated 5.9 originally, and I always thought it was an enjoyable, well protected pitch, in spite of its intimidating appearance from the base.

One of those Valley pitches that rewards the climber who leaves the security of the back of the flare, and uses the wide stemming options, kinda like the flares on Hot Line, The Right Side of the Worst Error, or The Northeast Buttress.

You sound like you're feeling better Pat, I hope so.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2009 - 01:07am PT
Scuffy IS badass!!!111
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
2nd pitch is crux, by a mile! At least....
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Aug 4, 2010 - 01:21am PT
2009, Led P1, struggled up P2, and decided to pass on P3...here I am struggling on P2


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