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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 20, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
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RIP, Dr. Preuss. You are not forgotten.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 20, 2010 - 10:36pm PT
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Hey Randy, do you know where the original print is for that vallepiana shot? Who took it?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 23, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
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wow, randy, what a lot of work. nice thing to have-- i'd love a pdf.
"Monaco" is the Italianization of "Muenchen." So yeah, it's Preuss's apartment in Munich.
The article says it's excerpted from Vallepiana's Erinnerungen, but I've never heard of it. The cite makes it look like a book, but i've not seen it. Have you come across it? Maybe it's simply an article. I'd have thought that he'd have published his later stuff in Italian (he was later President of the CAI), but maybe not. I've not seen that Vallepiana piece, so thanks for posting that deal.
lustiger bua, btw, the Bavarian/Tirolian dialect and the title of a popular drinking song.
And I wouldn't sweat the caption mix-up. History is hand work, and like all artisan stuff, there's lots of small imperfections. If you're lucky (as in this case), the small mistakes don't have any real consequences. None of us is lucky all the time!
ps-- do you have that vallepiana article scanned as a pdf? if so, could i have a copy? i can't read it if i zoom it on my screen.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 23, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
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Thanks Randy.
Yeah, my first trip to Italy I got a bit confused when folks asked me what I'd been up to in "Monaco." My Italian sucks.
I found a bibliographic reference to Vallepiana's book, but it's in Italian. There may've been a limited German translation that is just tough to find now, or it may be that the editors of the journal just translated the title.
There's a brief bio of Vallepiana here:
http://www.frontedolomitico.it/Uomini/Schede/FronteDolomiticoSchedaVallepianaUgo.htm
That article looks like early 1970s. Probably just one of the major German journals. I've done most of my reading in the pre-war stuff, so I don't know the fonts/design of the seventies ones well enough to id it by sight alone.
But someone else on ST probably could.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 24, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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If you already have the French, you can read any of the other romance languages with a bit of work.
I'm really slow in Italian, and for anything other than meatball work i have to use a dictionary, but it's not really that daunting. Almost half the importantt lit onn the dolomites is in Italian, so its worth taking a bit of time. Not like you need to be a specialist, although i can imagine you might want to read a bit of croce or gentile in the original.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 28, 2010 - 02:37am PT
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"He climbed more than 1,200 routes in the Eastern Alps . . . "
Remarkable. What a life.
JL
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2010 - 08:59am PT
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Amazing how many photos of Preuss you have found.
I had no idea that so many pix had been taken of him!!
That last one.....Preuss on top with babes.
He had groupies!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2010 - 06:11pm PT
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Damn it Randy, you remind me that I haven't finished those! Now I'll have to go digging, or get you to resend.
Thanks for all your great work on this thread. You far exceeded any hopes that I had in the beginning.
You are my new hero of style!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Outstanding work Randisi!
Good threads are a resource that live on with the click of a mouse.
ST history magic!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 14, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
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Randy, I hope you put these together into some sort of compendium. You have done yeoman's work on this project and the climbing community should be in your debt!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2011 - 08:00am PT
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Thanks KlK, John, Randy, and all... I've been lurking the whole way
and decided not to make any comments, since most of you know the
material better than I, and it has traveled its course
nicely. I too have lots of thought and lots of opinions... and think of
other climbers who might fit into this overall story. Perry-Smith
or Albert Kunze... come to mind.... Enough, from me.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 26, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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thanks for bumping this randy.
how's china?
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astrange
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Im going bumb this thread as well. I had the pleasure of climbing the Comici route on the north face of Cima Grande during the weekend. I took some photos and did a small write-up on my blog:
http://frontpoint-sport.com/?p=794
I thought you might enjoy it!
/Anders
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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Nice blog entry there Anders!!
Really good pix. So glad you got it done.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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Still great work you put in here Randisi!
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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DUDE
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2013 - 10:01am PT
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Randisi, I authored this thread, but you are the master of it.
I love it!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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WHO HERE HAS CLIMBED A PREUSS ROUTE?
Unfortunately for me, I never have had the pleasure.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Damn, what a cool thread.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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WHO HERE HAS CLIMBED A PREUSS ROUTE?
Unfortunately for me, I never have had the pleasure.
Me, probably several over the years - they are hard to avoid.
One that comes immediatly to mind is the Preuss Relly on the Cima Piccolissima. Mostly a chimney, but there's a wall pitch low down that gains the chimney line. That wall is steep, very exposed and solid 5.7.
The chimney is seriously deep and is largely bridged, there's a couple of narow sections, but they aren't a huge deal.
The ususal descent is down a deep, loose and usually damp gully, by absiel. I cannot imagine downclimbing it. Even less so the route!
Steve
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