Great Western Bouldering Championship, 1986

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 37 of total 37 in this topic
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 20, 2009 - 03:21am PT
Mt. Woodson always seems to get a lot of attention on this forum so...

There were so many in attendance at the 1986 G.W.B.C at Woodson but I haven't seen any photo's from that contest, other than the ones I have (which isn't much), since! Does anyone have any photo's from back then? If you do please post them and let's get another Woodson thread going! Would love to see them!

Here are a few to start...


Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 20, 2009 - 08:02am PT
Wasn't Mimi "Incredulous" at this one?
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Oct 20, 2009 - 08:35am PT

Yeah, that was a good one, and i almost won.

Good times to be had by all.

I was hanging with Mike Paul, Ray Olson, and newbie climber, Sue Knott.

Ron Kauk easily strolled to a victory.

At one point Ron came up to me and asked for directions. I introduced Ron to Sue, and she was very impressed. She sez, You know Ron? I reply, yeah we're tight, and go way back.

I lied, but Sue still climbed with me.

Edit, and i can still fit in to that t shirt!
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Oct 20, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
and how I regret my lack of foresight, no camera - no pics.

it was quite a day.

My best Woodson days were spent in three ways:

going alone to explore and find my limits on the highballs,

going with eppi, jeff and adrian, and watusi in all out full day burn-off sessions :-)

and,

getting to climb with Rick Piggot.

I was a very lucky little guy.

zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Oct 20, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
Ray,

I brought my camera and took pics. I know that I took one of you on a problem that we both got up on. You sent it, and I fell, and got my hand stuck in the crack, and had to have a bunch of people pull on the rope to winch me up and out.

Definitely got a pic of me posing with Ron Kauk.

Sadly, no pic of me and my brand new FROG gear sling. Remember the one with pusik adjustment on it? Still got it.

Yep, good times with Rick, Ron, Carmmel, Lydia, etc. etc
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Oct 20, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
hey Zip,

Camel had contacted me about donating some gear as prizes and, of course,
I said yes.

I do remember the gear slings with prussik adjust - they were made to accommodate
climbing with different height people, handing off the rack at a belay, a simple on the fly
means of adjustment that, as far as I know, never slipped.

cool you took pics.

climbing was really starting to explode back then, it seemed.

thanks for the memories :)

Ray
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 20, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
What, how dare you propose another Woodshun shindig!!!!!


















I'm in.

let's roll
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 20, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
funnyest quote I've heard in a while...


"Let's just put it this way..... I was climbing 13's in the eighties!"






apogee

climber
Oct 20, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
Wow- that brings back some memories- I still have the tattered remains of that t-shirt somewhere.

A funny story- I took my little brother (he was about 12 y/o) to the Champs that day, and he dropped his pack at the sign-in desk as we toured around. He had received a new rope for Christmas (his most prized gift of the season), which he brought with him, thinking he might use it- when he saw the scale of the contest, and that everything was already rigged, he left it in his pack at the desk.

Later, we walked by Lie Detector while Ron was working it (where the pic above was taken), and my brother saw that they were using his rope! Someone at the desk mistakenly grabbed it and rigged it. There were all of these photographers crowded around Ron, and my little brother had to elbow and push his way through and said..

'Hey! That's my rope!'

All of Ron's groupies and the photogs pushed him aside and blew him off, but Ron was really cool about it- he apologized genuinely, and asked that the rope be replaced. I was really impressed by Ron's respectful handling of that situation.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2009 - 05:21am PT
There has to be more out there!!! I missed the first Shindig, I'd be up for another! Anyone?
Lurking Fear

Trad climber
Bishop, California
Dec 10, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
As I recall, there were two contests that day. The Bouldering Championships and there was also a Stonemasters Contest. I remember Christian Griffith and Neil Canon were in that group. I also remember that Ron Kauk had all the problems wired and ran away with the contest. It was a great day anyway. The Stonemasters t-shirt was cool too. We flew down from Fresno in my friends company jet. First and only time at Woodsons.
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Dec 11, 2009 - 01:35am PT
S.D. dudes still suck. 20 years later. Can't surf or climb. Order the concrete maybe they can do something after that!
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Dec 11, 2009 - 01:45am PT
One more thing f*#k you MP. You pussy. If you are still alive.
apogee

climber
Dec 11, 2009 - 02:13am PT
What're you drinkin' tonight, Dog?

Hey, illusiondweller- if you look real close at some of your GWBC pix, I bet you won't see any bolts on UP. It would be nice to keep it that way, eh?
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Dec 11, 2009 - 10:37am PT
Two things- are those tick marks on the PHD photo? I thought those were an annoying modern invention.

Also- you guys have me psyched on Woodson. I've never climbed there, but I was all over the internet last night looking at photos. That place looks genius.
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Dec 11, 2009 - 10:39am PT
rock and ice #14 had that competition as one of its stories
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Dec 11, 2009 - 11:20am PT
That was a great day,
but i add myself to those that took no pics.

We used to walk the pipe at the upper parking area as a
"balance warm up" somewhere around 60+ feet each way,
two or three laps was about right.
I tried it a couple of weeks ago.... i bailed after 12 feet.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Dec 11, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
hey, i was there, i thought it was 87, but that tshirt i remember. so yeah, all the guys who were better that me like kauk, watusi, cannon, raker, entered this stonemaster pro contest. with a binge of brunette thinking, i enter the more lowly stonemaster regular comp AND the california bouldring championship comp. most the problems were the same. i would do a problem and then have the judge sign of both scorecards. the result- i freakin won both contest and bootied two brand news ropes. couldn't have scripted it better, except that i was too shy to kiss the organizer, carmel schimmel, on the podium because she was/is such a hottie. shipoopoi
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Dec 12, 2009 - 01:31am PT
Yeah, and you? this changes nothing.
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 12, 2009 - 02:26am PT
Busted out my old shirt for the Shindig. I'd like to do it again...
Brad


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 04:00am PT
Thought I'd share some memories as well...

I was twenty four then, five years into climbing, when Ken Klis and I wandered back up the steep asphalt into the morning fog that frequently emcompasses Woodson that time of the year. But, this time, to enter into the comp scene, a place I'd only been once before at the 1982 comp at Magnolia Boulders in Santee. Though, then, I was more of an observer and alone without that security that comes with having a good partner with you.

We followed a steady flow of attendies up to the Painted Boulder where tables and chairs were set up to accommodate the entrants and the judges would inevitably tally the scores to announce the winners at the end of the competition. We were all supplied with a layout of the boulders and the problems with point values, including a score card that would eventually determine our fate. With Carmel Shimmel on the magaphone and the drone of anxious climbers it created an exciting yet nervous atmosphere. At 0730 the gun was fired and the comp began. We had until 1630 to tally the best ten scores with the lowest score being thrown out.

The first problem to go down was Driving South at 5.11d after waiting for Ray Olsen to top out first. This guy looked like a human pitbull if you haven't ever met him! Eric's Face on the Robbin's Boulder, and Lemon Shiffon nearby, went smoothly. Ken and I met up again and wandered higher up on the mountain using our best strategy, ie; keeping our ears open to avoid the sandbag's that were randomly scattered on the mountain. Jaw's and California Night added to my score. Pushing higher we rounded the switchback to where Mother Superior, with it's judge kicked back on top of the adjacent boulder in his beach chair, awaited it's next victim.

" Has anyone tried this yet this morning?" I asked.

" Only one. Ron Kauk did it earlier." The judge replied with a smile.

Nerves twisted my stomach in knots for I had a strong desire to get back on this incredible offwidth after a mini epic I had experienced in late '85 (http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1158972;search_string=Warning%2C%20Mother%20Superior;#1158972);. This was the first time I had reconsidered getting back on this since then. Not having my Levis with me almost convinced me to keep walking when, just then, I noticed Jeff Almadovar appear.

"Hey Gary, you going to try this thing? You can wear my Levis if you want."
I guess that's all I needed for Jeff and I proceeded to exchange pants right there on the roadside! I was sure to tape my ankles and don my harness this time.

Descending into the dark cave below I met another judge who was there to spot me through the bottom section.

"Could you ask the crowd to keep it down a bit?" I asked the judge for I was a nervous wreck at this point. After quieting the cacophany of onlookers the judge took his position and I began my chalking ritual.

I conserved energy well through the Leavittation section and painfully pulled through the first crux. My knee hesitated coming out at first but released with relief. You could hear a pin drop as I traversed right and into the next overhanging face crux. Kipping high I reached the crimp with my left hand and laybacked up the friction ramps to the top. Wow, my first success on this mutha! I tried to fill the remaining slots on my scorecard including getting spanked on the Monkey Crack mantle. Walking back down the hill, passing Robbin's Crack, and having one more problem to go, I ran into Greg Epperson with camera in hand:

"Greg, help me out. I have one more problem to go and there's fifteen minutes left. What do you suggest?" I pleaded.

"Why don't you get on 5.10a On the Outside? I saw you do it the last time I ran into you. It gave the Stonemaster guys some trouble!" Greg suggested, turning and pointing over to the boulder.

Ken and I quickly ran down the road to the problem where a toprope lay in situ with no judge in attendance. I worked my way back over to the judges table and recruited the first available set of hands I could. Thank God for the late success to complete my tick!

Standing as close as I could I tried to get a good look at the scores as they began to tally. I was holding fourth place in the Open Division until a later finisher beat me out by five points and dropped me down to fifth. Climbing Magazine posted the top four entrants in each division and I missed out on my place in fame. I was still awarded a set of HB micronuts.

What a great day though and some awesome memories to reflect back on. Mt. Woodson still holds deep roots in my climbing twenty three years later. I enjoy watching the new, young generation of strong climbers for it impresses and humbles me. Better yet, I can't keep from breaking a sweat back up that darn HILL!

I agree Brad, let's have another Shindig!


Glory to God!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 12, 2009 - 11:48am PT
Yeah I'm still alive Dogtown! Who the f*#k are you anyway? I remember that contest, we ended up boycotting it after they let Ron go first and preview everything. We all accepted the four way tie for second place...
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Dec 12, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
Illusion Dweller, you just made my day. I've climbed with Ken Klis too. Had completely forgotten the name until you mentioned him. Do you stay in touch with him? Last I saw him (5-6 years ago) he was a badass blm or forest service conservation ranger in the SLO area, climbing and developing like a madman at bishop's peak, among others.
He does not put up schwag routes! I had a lot of fun when he gave me the full tour!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 12, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
Wow, just reread some of the posts and found something rich..."so yeah, all the guys who were better that me like kauk, watusi, cannon, raker, entered this stonemaster pro contest." You were always light years ahead of me Steve!!
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Dec 12, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
The GWBC was great fun. Think I placed 76th or there-abouts. Would like to see more pics... someone has to have some.
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
Dec 12, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
Speaking as someone who was 4 years old (albeit learning to climb trees in my back yard) at the time I think another shin dig of sorts would be great fun. I would be happy to get in on it. When would be a good time for it?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
Wild One, who are you? Do I know you?...Wow, Ken is still up in SLO as a park Ranger supervisor still tearing it up out on the rock! Since he moved and started a family of his own he never slowed down! Everytime I get the chance to speak to him on the phone, since then, he shares with me a big wall experience of his or something of the sort. I shake my head and wonder where I went astray, sheesh! The last time I saw him, last year, he invited me up to his place and took me out to the local mountains where Michael Jackson's Nevernever Land and Bo Derek's place is located, to climb on some weird conglomerate towers out there. He's in the middle of building his house after living in a trailer for many years. His parents still live in Rancho Bernardo. Ken is a little powerhouse that doesn't quit! I wish I had his motivation! If you want more contact info for him drop me a line on hotmail with this username. I'd be happy to get you back in touch with him!

Gary
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
So a 2010 Shindig in the making? Shall we? The last Shindig was in June and it turned out to be scortchin' hot! The cooler month's start in October and go through April. I'm not willing to wait till October so what about February or March? Come on guys let's get a vote. Here's some weather info I just pulled up. "It is a snapshot of the page as it appeared on Dec 3, 2009 03:38:53 GMT."

FEBRUARY WEATHER IN SAN DIEGO:

THE AVERAGE DAILY MINIMUM IS 51.5 DEGREES AND THE AVERAGE DAILY MAXIMUM IS 66.3 DEGREES.IN MOST FEBRUARYS THE MAXIMUM REACHES 70 DEGREES OR EVEN 80
DEGREES AND ONCE IN 1921 IT SOARED TO 89 DEGREES. A FREEZING TEMPERATURE HAS NEVER BEEN REGISTERED DURING THE MONTH AT THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE. THE LOWEST READING WAS 34 DEGREES IN 1891...1894...1899 AND 1911. THE MEAN RAINFALL FOR FEBRUARY IS NORMALLY 2.04 INCHES. THE AVERAGE NUMBER OF RAINY DAYS IS 6.


MARCH WEATHER IN SAN DIEGO:

TEMPERATURES CONTINUE TO CLIMB IN MARCH AND THE MONTHLY MEAN OF 60.0 DEGREES IS 1.1 DEGREE HIGHER THAN THAT OF FEBRUARY AND 2.2 DEGREES HIGHER THAN THAT OF JANUARY. THE AVERAGE DAILY MAXIMUM IS 66.3 DEGREES AND THE AVERAGE DAILY MINIMUM OF 53.6 DEGREES.OCCASIONALLY HOT DRY WINDS FROM THE INTERIOR HAVE CAUSED TEMPERATURES TO RISE WELL INTO THE 80S AND ON FOUR DAYS INTO THE 90S. THE LAST TIME A MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE OF 90 DEGREES OR ABOVE OCCURRED WAS ON THE 29TH OF 2005, WHEN THE TEMPERATURE SOARED TO 91 DEGREES. STILL IN THE RAINY SEASON, MARCH IS NORMALLY THE SECOND WETTEST
MONTH AVERAGING 2.26 INCHES AND 7 DAYS WITH MEASURABLE AMOUNTS.


And here are some charts on Ramona:





Are these month's too wet or what do you think? Mt. Woodson is always better cooler than hotter. Maybe if we schedule it over a three day weekend we'd have a better chance of a dry day if it rains?


Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
Dec 12, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
March.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
Yeah, I think from the middle towards the end of March as well when the chances of rain start to drop. How about March 19, 20, 21?
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 12, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
The last Shindig was April 28th Gary, it was just a rogue hot spell.

No, my memory ain't that good, there's a date stamp on the photo above, taken that day...

Here's another.


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
Darn it...I wasn't even there, who am I to say?! Ur right Brad. I for some reason thought it was June...probably the weather. Anyhow, mid March sound good to you? Anyone else interested?
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Dec 13, 2009 - 12:48am PT
hey watusi, don't put yourself down. you were an inspirational boulderer to me, and since i could never ever do streetcar, though i watched you many times, you are THE MAN in my book aqnd always will be. ciao, brother
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2009 - 01:03am PT
So, we have so far:

1. Gary aka illusiondweller
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 13, 2009 - 01:06am PT
yep, watusi had the JT circuit as dialed as any man alive. same with woodson. in his prime he was a wonder to behold.

another shindig? i'm in.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2009 - 01:30am PT
Guys/Gals,

Why don't we call it the 2010 Woodson Shindig/1986 GWBC Reunion? That would be awesome to have those that competed and at the '86 contest and those that were present at the last Shindig to return to be all together once again up on Woodson! Kauk, Paul, Griffith, Piggot, Cameron, et al to meet together for a historic get together/day of climbing up on the Hill! Come one come all, let's fill the mountain up with climbers as it use to be on March 19, 20, 21!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2009 - 02:57am PT
This thread has been moved to: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1034716/2010_Mr_Woodson_Shindig_-_1986_GWBC_Reunion.
Messages 1 - 37 of total 37 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta