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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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I never knew Tobin, never saw him, but as a young kid I heard stories of Tobin from members of a college church group I used to hang out with. I was 14 years old in 79, my dad had introduced me to climbing with trips to Williamson Rock and Mt. Pacifico starting at age 11 using an old goldline rope that tied about as easy as tying a bowline with winch cable. The church I belonged to and still do had a very active college group who had several members that climbed. After a few sorties out to Stoney Point they immediately discovered that I could actually climb pretty good. We struck up a deal, they would let me come on trips to Yosemite, Suicide and Josh if I would lead the stuff deemed too hard for them. Deal. I can remember trips to the Valley in an old VW bus that had rust holes in the front end as well as the back creating a wind tunnel effect and extreme windchill temps, we huddled in mummy bags and smoked Swisher Sweets to stay warm. Climbing in the valley was otherworldly and overwhelming. It was during one of these trips to the valley that one members of our group talked about going to school with Tobin and climbing with him during a school outing, I dont remember the school, I think it was Biola or Azusa or some other christian college but regardless the stories made quite an impact on me. When I returned home I remember buying copies of Mountain or Ascent and reading more stories of his climbs.
A few years later I was still the designated ropgun but we had started heading out in smaller groups and doing more committed climbs like Clyde Minarette. During one of these trips I was picked up at home to head off to Valley, the guy who picked me up had a long look on his face and explained that Tobin had died in a climbing accident. For a young cocky kid who fely invincible this was a sucker punch even though I had never met him.
Why is it that you can have such a visceral response for someone you have never met? In recent months I have had the same response when Dash and Copp were reported missing. Tobin had an infectious smile and seemed like a genuine person who was approachable, even from the pages of a magazine or stories around the campfire. I felt the same about Dash and Copp, that the climbing world had lost genuine caring souls.
The few sections in The Stone Masters that were dedicated to Tobin brought back wonderful memories of my early climbing experiences at Josh and Suicide in the late to early eighties.
Thanks John and Dean for opening the floodgates those early memories, tying into a swami, the smell of new Chouinard Canyons and the sound of #11 hexes clanging from shoulder sling. Along with the sour memories came a thousand more good ones.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 18, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
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Amen
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 18, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
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Tobin was really special. Although a devout Christian and extremely pretty actually, Tobin was an awfully good climber, had a great body for climbing and could pull like nobody's business. He was also quite canny, perhaps even shrewd in certain ways. Quite a surprising bunch of talents!
I remember when he and his little brother Tim did the FFA of Cobra on the Royal Arches. Vandiver and I spent some evenings in the Lounge with those two; maybe there was bad weather. Vandiver usually subtly got the upper hand in conversations back then if the subject was climbing; Chris was competitive and awfully skilled. But Newcomer Tobin had him at cross-purposes pretty quickly and obviously was enjoying it as well. A very cool character with dimensions that were not generally suspected by others.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 18, 2009 - 10:48pm PT
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Tobin had a far wider impact than the climbing community. There must have been several hundred at his funeral and only a small coterie of climbers standing in the back.
I was never a Stonemaster, more like stoneduffer, still am, but I did have the privilege of tieing in with the crazy kid from down the street for a season or so in the pre-stonemaster days.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=161148&msg=161672#msg161672
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 18, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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hey there say, batrock... thanks for sharing this very meaningful note from your feelings... say, i have only heard of tobin, from here...
everything i've read and heard here has been a good and proper legecy to this special climber... thanks for this share, as well... all the little puzzle pieces of the full art of rockclimbing, all seem to come together so well and kindly at supertopo....
thanks again.... :)
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Oct 19, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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I knew Tobin, he was a 'Stonemaster'!!And if you were able to distinguish that a 'biner' was a colloquialism for carabiner and not a slur, then you new who all the Stonemasters were. And I was fortunate enough to frequent the Tahquitz/Suicide area from @'71'-'74'during their 'Blitz' of that place, and the 'Valley' for a few years later. I recall one afternoon he and Largo entered the 'Mountain People's Shop' asking if anyone had any spare bolts that they could lend them. They were all out and needed one more to finish a new route that he was leading at Suicide. I can still picture Tobin as that characteristic smile lit up his face when I offered him the only bolt I had, and as far as I can remember, I ever owned, a 3/8" that I imagine is still firmly planted on 'In Harms Way'??, or some similar climb at Suicide. It was an honor of course. Now when I think of Tobin, the bible verse "And now abide faith, hope, love, these three; but the greatest of these is love" 1 Corinthians 13:13, comes to mind. That's because love is what would best characterise Tobin. After he became a Christian, his hearts desire was to share this love of Christ that was burning in him, with his fellow Stonemasters and climbers. Tobin was the real thing. He lived it. He never forced his beliefs on anyone, he didn't have to. I remember the last night I spoke with him, the night after Tobin and his brother climbed the 'Cobra' on the Arches wall. He was attending bible college at the time and was making these long foray's on the weekend up to the Valley from L.A. to climb and be with his friends. Quite remarkable when you think about it, right off the couch, 5.11+ FFA of an ominous looking overhanging corner in a godforsaken place, high above the Valley floor. Must have taken allot of 'faith'...the dude had it. By the way, as Tobin fully understood, faith enables us to come to God, but love enables us to imitate Him...the dude had both. And of course he also had hope that he would share eternity in heaven with those he loved here on earth.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 01:59am PT
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Tripl7,
Thanks for further insight. The greatest of these is indeed love.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:01am PT
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1st corinthians 13?......
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:21am PT
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Jaybro!! Allrighht dude!! Keep me on my toes!! 'A man after my own heart' as Someone once said...hey! I guess I am going to have to actually start practicing what I am preach'n and open up the Book to make sure of these things. It's 1 Corinthians 13:13 / not 1 Corinthians 13:11. Thankyou.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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Enjoyed the story that emerged from Tobin's ascent of the Shield behind Trevor Jones and myself (even if it was a bit embellished).
I last heard from Trevor a few years ago and recently emailed him about the book, offering to get him a copy since his hammering of the rope into the crack was pivotal to the tale.
Haven't heard back, so if there are any Calgary climbers who know him please give a shout.
Trevor is a good fellow and would likely enjoy it.
Sadly, although we shared some of the same haunts, I never had the privilege of knowing Tobin, but his deeds were legend, a light that shone briefly but brilliantly.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 10:12am PT
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Piton Ron: "embellished" ? Are you sure? Sorry you didn't meet Tobin- I know he would have loved knowing you. Cheers from Oregon, Bruce
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 10:27am PT
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Ho man! Called out immediately!
Hi Bruce.
To be clear; Trev hammered that rope into the crack pretty hard, and at a spot where it was possible to get a lot of A1 nuts in. So I have little doubt that Tobin could have set up a solid belay after arriving at that spot although the book makes it sound as if he swung in to the lip of the roof to belay.
Either way the part of the story that I doubted was about how easily the old rope popped out after he did so, but I have no problem with such an "embellishment" as it only serves to underline the insanity of jugging mystery ropes rather than mis-portray the actual event.
Only you know, but if it really did pop out like that then I think you more than "saw god". I think you heard, smelled and felt it too!
Sort of like; "It was true even if it didn't happen" kind of thing.
LOL
cheers Bruce, no malice intended.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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Thanks for the reply Ron--I know you have no malice in soul for me--we're too much alike! Honestly, there is no hyperbole there. When I weighted the fixed line ever so slightly, it blew dramatically. I just know you are kindly trying to get it out that I am guilty of understatement!
Sorry if I did not spell-out the belay clearly in the story. Tobin stopped prior to the point where Trevor hammered in the knot, it seems to me, about fifty feet. Even at the time, I wasn't sure why he did so.
One day I hope we can toast and brag, and may God have mercy on any spectators! -B
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 11:09am PT
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Well the pitch after the roof is overhanging as well, so just swinging into the belay was a feat.
You didn't even give it a little flick and it popped?
Wow!
I often marvel at how many close calls I've seen. Its the kind of food for thought that can cause mental indigestion!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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I paused for a late breakfast. Cragman and Stitch, Tobin's earthly body was recovered, tangled in rope, at the base of the North Face of Mt. Alberta. He was attempting to solo the Lowe-Glidden, route. He was composing a letter to his fiance, during the climb, which revealed he was above the ice and also that he had become off route, and also that he was very frightened.
I hear you loud and clear Ron, about the close calls- Life really is stranger than fiction, and I think it is often a big writing challenge in climbing accounts to bring credibility to the facts. With Tobin Sorenson, it really is not necessary to exaggerate! But life is a miracle, and we are all, miracles, and from what I can tell, especially you!
your friend, Bruce
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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Oh, I meant to say...
Tobin's belay was situated about twenty feet above the roof. It was not necessary for him to "swing in, (and jam a pinky)" and set up an anchor which really would be, a ludicrous proposition. Rather, the fixed rope passed through (not tied) a biner at that point, it seems to me, about twenty feet above the lip. The fixed line, perceived as a white rope by the time we arrived had faded so much, I was aghast when I realized from the book photo, it had once been multi-colored. No matter how hard it was hammered into the crack, entropy, as always, must have prevailed. Had Tobin Jumared on it another literal second, well...
Hey everybody --if there is any way, buy this momentous book which contains great writing and priceless photos which I can only hope to have supplemented by my own contribution. There are many hidden accounts of Tobin that are fantastic, such as in the Valhalla tales.
You will never regret it!
In respect to Tobin, I knew him well enough to say he belongs to each and all of us, because he was infinitely happy to be "one of us." And Thank You, once again, Dean Fidelman, John Long and Mike Graham, all three amazing individuals, for setting the flame.
-Bruce Adams
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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Just an OT word.
The taco is a valuable network.
Thanks to the person who updated me on Trevor's difficulties.
Hopefully he's on the mend.
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Double D
climber
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Oct 19, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Tobin was one of the coolest climbers BITD. Always took time to talk to us pups, encourage us and share Jesus with us (talk about lost souls!).
I was deeply saddend when I hear of his death. He did so many bad ass climbs and was such a nice guy.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 19, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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Well,.. they make great water skiers,..
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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Mr. Cragman, If I may respectfully interrupt, I doubt if Peter 'H-a-a-n' would commit such an error as you suggest.
Rather, isn't it true that his Christian identity, recklessness, charm and luck, tend to be the dominating perception in regards to Tobin and, very often, eclipse a just awareness of his splendid athleticism and skills? As climbers who know the ruthlessness of our avocation, and for those of us who call Christ our Lord, isn't it proper to point out Sorenson's impressive commitment to excellence and in his own words, "radical commitment?" I found Peter's words to be very gracious, and strongly appreciated his inclusion of Tobin's surviving brother, Tim. Sorry Peter, if I have put words in your mouth, out of turn.
Let us take the high road, and ease up on the polemics. Thanks, Bruce
Ron, I'll tell you some Sorenson surfing stories some day--not exactly walking on water!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
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I'll let you sleep on it, Crag!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 19, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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Thanks BrunoS, exactly so, just above. You are a stud!
And judging from how beholden Tim was to Tobin, Tobin’s hideous, untimely and violent death must have been flat-out more than a younger brother to contemplate. He idolized his bro. Sigh.
And yeah, Cragman, I am Dutch; this very old Dutch name is spelled with two “a’s” like many names and nouns in the Netherlands. Probably should keep the spelling right for the sake of searches later and out of common respect.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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The legend Lives on In the old school style of climbing. True Alpinist Style of free climbing. And its home is Tahquitz and Suicide.
TS FA. Seasons end. Soerenson and Graham.
Some old Dog.
The great Mike Graham on his and Tobins route New Generation.
And the Best face climber in the day and maybe ever! Darrell Hensel on his route. IsHi 12.D
The place is the Soul of Alpine style Rock climbing...... Preiod.
Dogtown.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Oct 19, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
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I have to admit that 1). I haven't purchased the 'Stonemasters' book yet and as soon as I can locate it I will. 2). My story up thread was more suited for the 'Stonemaster IV' thread, as I realize now that this is regarding specific stories in the book! And, 3). I should probably leave it at that. But since i only have one or two relatively short stories to share and they are more or less about Tobin I will Post them here rather than have them get lost in what will someday most likely be published as the 'Encyclopedia Americana Version of the Stonemasters' (HOO-RAH). Spring 1974!! Word had it, (as I recall), that a couple of the Stonemasters had showed up and were being treated to a personnel tour to some of the 'Valley Classics'. Next day, a couple of my friends and myself are down at Reeds P. area, sitting next to the start of the first pitch of some multi pitch 5.10+(??) and up strides one of the 'VALLEY SELECT' with Tobin and Mike in tow, and without missing a beat, he launches off on the first pitch 5.9+(3rd classing it). On arriving at the top he slides the rope off his shoulder and looks down at Tobin and asks, "need a line?" Tobin just shrugs his shoulders, shakes his head no and fires up the hand crack in perfect style. Mr. 'VALLEY SELECT' then looks down at Mr. Gramicci and simply says "how about you?" Well, by now all of us viewing from the peanut gallery, jaws were dropping and our eyes were popping. You see, we were privy to the fact that Mr. Select had years of practice leading, top roping etc. on this particular pitch, as it was popular for just that amongst the heralded few. And here come Tobin and Mike, right off the boat so to speak.... well needless to say, us mere mortals in the gallery were much relieved when Mr. G, with a slight pause and a smile glances over at us and responds "today, I'll take a rope"!
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Oct 20, 2009 - 03:51am PT
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It is 1977 or 1978, and once again I am down at 'Reeds P. Area' thrashing away on something...occasionally glancing over my left shoulder at another climber, down canyon, taking these whippers off a new route in progress, later to be called 'Tales of Power'...and reflecting on what a close friend of mine 'George'(the belayer of the climber putting in the air time) had said about the tenacity and commitment of this individual (RK). The route was finally completed after a couple of weeks of diligent, day after day, effort. It became an instant test piece/classic of course, and was therefore on Tobin's list of climbs to do. And, as the story goes, Tobin comes up on one of those long weekend foray's he made from L.A. while in 'bible college', to climb and be with his friends. And he (although a devout Christian), flash's it!!! First try!!! WHAM/BAM/THANKYOU MAM!!!! Tobin made a statement that day, and I am simply underlining it here, all these years later!! No disrespect intended at all, on the contrary!!! For I have nothing but respect for every individual who tied into the sharp end of a rope one day at a very young age, and then committed the rest of their lives to climbing. It takes a very unique individual to be able to do that. I am just recalling another 'Stonemaster' thread recently, where Largo and Dean comment to the effect that Tobin wasn't that good of a climber...just bold. Well with all due respect for 'JL' and 'Bullwinkle', I beg to differ, it took more than simply 'boldness' to get up that in one try, 'right off the couch'!!! And by the way Peter Haan, I recall one lazy '1974' afternoon down by the river, you and RK glancing up at the 'SENTINAL' and you encouraging him, to give a shot at an attempt at the FFA of the West Face of that megolith. You said something to the effect that "your name will be etched on it for eternity". Ron was very young then, and was perhaps still pondering just how much a commitment it was going to require to get to where he is today. I believe it took friends like you, the Bird and others to help him with such a commitment along the way. I guess what I am trying to say is, Tobin made a similar type of commitment. Not so much unlike yours away back there at the foot of the 'Salathe Wall' many years ago (I recall reading your account of it then, and your saying that you were going to have to pull off something monumental to impress the likes of the crew in C4). But Tobin's commitment was to his 'Lord and Savior' Jesus Christ! He new it would have to be 100%, even if that meant giving up climbing, as important as it was in his life. I believe that you, being of the caliber that you are (44 Magnum), can respect him for making that type of commitment. Well, as it turned out, 'The Good Lord' did include climbing in 'His' plan for Tobin's life, very much so. And like you, Tobin understood what it would require to impress the likes of a very similar group of friend's, that meant so much to him. I, like all who have known and loved Tobin as fellow 'brother in the Lord',friend, climber etc. have struggled with, why did 'He' take Tobin 'home' so young? And after close to 30 years of pondering this, I still don't have an answer. I can only ask you, Peter Haan, to please believe me when I say, that Tobin surely has his name 'etched for eternity' in a book in Heaven. And I do know I will see him again,and perhaps then Tobin will take the time to share with me the explanation the Lord gave him after 'He' said to Tobin, "well done good and faithful servant". PEACE. Sorry about the one big paragraph!! I am new at this and could not get it to form paragraphs!!!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:51am PT
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" And yeah, Cragman, I am Dutch; this very old Dutch name is spelled with two “a’s” like many names and nouns in the Netherlands. Probably should keep the spelling right for the sake of searches later and out of common respect. "
Funny , I spell it A. H. - for ass hole .
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 20, 2009 - 06:12am PT
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hey there say, all... as i have read more, and learned more from you all, i must say, it is very sweet that he knew the wonders of having the good lord in his heart...
i wish he could have shared his life with his fiance... :(
but then, sometimes there are things we just dont' understand, as to our time upon this land...
god bless, to is family, and may those that love him, continue to share, even as you are now... thus--folks can learn of him, even as i have just said that i have, as well...
seeds to grow, from the life that was lived, and you are spreading that seed, very well and kindly... :)
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Oct 20, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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from the perspective of a socal upstart in 1975, Tobin was both myth and legend.
with his bold alpinism a capitol "L" on the word "Legend".
truely great to be learning more about this very special person.
thanks.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 20, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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"...Largo and Dean comment to the effect that Tobin wasn't that good of a climber...just bold."
Never said that. Tobin was questionably the best all around climber in the world in the last 1970s.
JL
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 20, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
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For a few days, he held the handstand record at our home in Morro Bay. I think it was about 57 seconds, but several windows were almost booted.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Oct 20, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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at first it was all about the pic of him on Insomnia, his wallet seen poking out
of the back pocket of his trousers, and the stories...
then the pic of him on the...Eiger?
pretty mind blowing.
sadly I know almost nothing of his alpine career other than that
and his last climb.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Oct 20, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
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My first memory of Tobin was watching him slither up a dime-edge face at Woodson. Super slick! Super sick! My second memory was at my cousin's wedding (you were there, Bruce--Tim and Deanna). What a great guy. I'd never seen someone toss dinner rolls (as Tobin did) at a bride and groom before. A vivid memory of an even more vivid character!
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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"Never said that. Tobin was questionable the best all around climber in the world in the last 1970s." John! If you say it ain't so, than it ain't so!! Period. I must have misinterpreted a statement, and I would much rather be made to look the fool than for it to be true. Thank you for correcting me on that!! Long live the Stonemasters!!! Sincerely, TripL7.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 20, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
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Actually, you are showing some class and wisdom there Trip.
Sometimes we force the words of another into our own schematic of associations and loyalties, and then we fail to get the intended meaning or to see the larger context. We all seem to do this to one degree or another.
Compared to many top climbers, Tobin was not always the prettiest to watch and his performance could be erratic. But like the great Alpinist which he became, he was always fast and bold. There never was a more peace loving person, or a more thoughtful reader and listener. When we try to discern purpose amid the pain of his loss, perhaps we have a say in it, as we try to honor and imitate some of those qualities.
B
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Jefe'
Boulder climber
Bishop
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Oct 21, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
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For whatever reason, Tobin always had a hard time bouldering, unless there were cracks around. Me and Richard took him to Baldy once and he couldn't get off the ground to do anything. Then he spotted a finger crack on the side of the hill above the creek, it was probably 10' long, but nothing underneath for 20', and of course, flashed it, but couldn't do anything else at Baldy. His Dad and Dibbs lived up there for a while.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 22, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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The place is the Soul of Alpine style Rock climbing...... Period. It all started at T&S. Ask them all. All the Greats. back too 50's and before.
Dogtown.
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thetennisguy
Gym climber
Yuba City, CA
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Oct 23, 2009 - 12:12am PT
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I never met him either. When I went to Biola College in 1980, in one of the daily chapel services, a young woman gave a message about her fiance. He was a climber, a former student, and a man of great faith. It was a message I remember to this day. I have never forgotten that and I wished I could have met her intended because everyone who knew him at school witnessed his faith. They also witnessed his incredible climbing ability; there wasn't a building on campus he couldn't scale. This pales in comparison, of course, to his other accomplishments. It was said and there's no reason to doubt it, that he could do a one finger pull up. Needless to say he was already a legend around this small campus. He was an moutaineer.
Later I learned that he perished in Alberta Canada doing what God had gifted him to do. Climb. And he was and is a witness to all of us of a living faith in Jesus Christ and a Hope that surpasses anything this world has to offer. In looking back that was an incredibly sad day in the chapel service, because of the great loss involved, but what I learned about him was that he held on to Christ. That message has stuck with me all these years.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Oct 23, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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I always wished I had met Tobin. In those days I was a christian too and climbing was my life. It was all I thought of. The article in Mountian magazine with Tobin in a suit holding an umbrella in the rain, a wonderful image, and reading the accompanying article on his life really had an impact on me. At the time I was up in Washington State having just left San Diego for the next few years. I was climbing like mad up there too. I had good friends in my church youth group in Poway, and occasionally even convinced them to go with me to Mt. Woodson.
Recently, I came back to God, thank Jesus. Some day I am looking forward to meeting Tobin and others that have gone on before. But I have this life right now to live with my family and friends and that I will do.
Brunosafari,
I have a picture I will post of George Tabler later this evening when I get back from dinner. I think you will appreciate it.
This was my first climbing periodical I ever purchased as a youth.
This photo is for the Adam's Family. Here is George Tabler (the wild fun loving guy) your friend and neighbor from Poway days . . . I'm the one with my finger up my nose. Apparently not much has changed since then (circa early 1980).
The Posse. The Usual Suspects. The guys from church. I sure miss seeing/talking to Goerge. Haven't seen or talked to him in many years. It has been too long.
I have another picture of George climbing Elsa's crack on Mt. Woodson, but it is in negative form. I still haven't got around to printing it. I'm bad :-((
I miss all these guys but especially George Tabler and Joel McCravy. I wonder what my good friends from years gone by are doing????
Edit:
By the way, the Stonemasters Book is awesome. Thanks you guys!!
:-))
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