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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
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Hey I'm Trying to get some Information on the History of bouldering in South Ridge/County Park/ Relativity Boulders or any other areas in Idyllwild going back to Robbins day I know Largo does. I'm not looking for info on Black Mountain.
-The Kid
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 18, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
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I did quite a few of the firsts at S. Ridge and Black Mt. but my favorite peach was always The S. Ridge Arete...Skip Guerin snatched that baby! Got tons of photos of the stuff just have to find and blow the webs off 'em!!
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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any pictures or info on first ascents would be great I have some info from Clark Jacob And Mr. Troll on the boulder in the parking lot at south ridge They cut away the manzanita tree their and did first ascents. And Clark did the fa of elephant man. Any more stories??
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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I would really like to find info on the AH rock in county park thats one of the best boulders in idyllwild Also i forgot to mention Humber Park bouldering Namely this boulder problem anyone know who did the First ascent and the spiral tree boulder
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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south ridge arching crack boulder FA and who put the bolts at the top and the famous south ridge arete jogg any memories i know skip did the FA of south ridge arete
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 19, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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The first thing I ever climbed was at the trailhead of the south ridge trail.
I have to go back someday.
Juan
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 19, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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robbins, kamps, couch, higgins, haney-- lots of strong folks climbed there in the '50s and 1960s prior to the stonemaster gen.
since bouldering was not as highly regarded as cragging, no one seems to have recorded much detail.
personally, i was never crazy about south ridge and only went there a few times. funny how long the sr arete was an open problem-- and it was only v5.
folks had climbed stacks of "harder" things all over the hill years earlier.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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Wow, a great history! HI BALL ! And a bit secret? But this photo showed up of you know who, and the hunt was on!
PS.
Hey, Can you say, Dyno ?
By the way the landing on this problem is absolute DOG SH#T ! If you don’t pull it off As he did in the Shot. MR. Power of the StoneMasters...
Dogtown.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Nice, with best wishes!
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
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I know Chris Sharma went up to south ridge once and was doing laps up the south ridge arete i don't think he did any new problems.
I heard that Royal Robbins did a lot in County Park can anyone elaborate on this?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
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Yeah I know some people think the S.Ridge Arete is a hike (KLK?) And I used to run laps on it, but I thought it was as hard as other's in Josh per se that I used to hike as well...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 19, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
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First visited the Relativity Boulders around 1978 whith E !!!
Hugh Burton and Al Bartlett were there also.
I had a rugby shirt on at the time:
My mom had just washed it, using a bit too much fabric softener.
Burton cop'd a whiff & remarked: hey what's that sweet smell? I promptly demured & slithered over to some easier problems...
Also visited a place called The Sunrise Boulders which Randy Grandstaff found.
Again with E & Lou Bartlett.
Largo was there !!!
He pointed to some problem that was very cranky, with a big high step too.
He said: that problem looks futuristic! Then I did it...
I think those Sunrise Boulders got bulldozed to make way for a home-building project.
All troo & all histr'y.
(History, .... uh, more in the pejorative sense: as in toast)
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Oct 19, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
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One problem that probably won't be seeing very many ascents is "Weasels Ripped My Flesh" that is unless some kind of deforestation happens
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Oct 19, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Paging Dr. F
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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History of bouldering in Idyllwild and no mention of Bud Couch- the shame, the shame!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 20, 2009 - 12:38am PT
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Yeah, I put up all those "Cat" problems... "Big electric Cat" "Cat People" etc.They're in Craig Fry's ( Dr. F's) Guidebook So. Cal Bouldering....(I love that place by the way...)
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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wait Sun Rise Boulders!!! please elaborate i have never heard of them unless they are by Jameson road then ive heard them mentioned. Roger also told me about some boulder that Rob Erler put up but I can't remember where they were. and we talked for hours about bouldering off morris ranch road in garner valley. What are the "Cat" problems???
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 20, 2009 - 01:29am PT
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There were some problems near S.Ridge Arete that I cleaned, then named after "Cat People"... (Movie I had been watching recently)... I think the one that is in Craig's book that I hadn't mentioned is "Transmaniacon" (After the Blue Oyster Cult" song) that I had done there, none of the local kids could touch...Must be in the guide...Ahhhhhh!
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 02:37am PT
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Are those on the Arching crack boulder to the left of the crack?
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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hey watusi saw you in the 2010 metolius climbing catalog on the t.v screen in woodson that landing looks terrible
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 14, 2009 - 01:23am PT
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Lucas, you haven't been to the TV screen yet? FOR SHAME!!!
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 01:44am PT
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if i ever get a day off i will, and yes it is shameful
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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He was supposed to be at woodson yesterday... lets see if he got rained out :O
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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It's all history---.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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In 1970 I was jogging thru bushes between two problems and nearly stepped on a Bobcat.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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Same thing happened to me but it was a old english can! Scared the hell out of me.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Hey Cragman! Yeah I'm thinking that was one of my oldest climbing pals, Ron Amick...
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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How about the Chouinard boulder! Who hasn't been tempted to pull the beater over to the side of the road(just short of Idylwild on the way up from Hemet)and thrash through the scrub for fifty yards or so to follow in the mans footsteps...if only for a moment or two?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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We went up to the Chouinar boulder in the early 70s. Gotta go for it - it's historical.
JL
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LDunn
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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this is a Idyllwild area anybody been to it? has some great problems or this one of the most committing problems in county park.
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apogee
climber
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LDunn, that's a great problem, and used to be pretty hidden until someone did some 'landscaping' around it- this made it more user-friendly, but will probably result in more traffic/impact. Still, a very nice arete.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 26, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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x15x15, just gotta say cheers for being the new eyes and ears there as I loved that place for decades and it really does need protectors!! Good on you mate!
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apogee
climber
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Apr 27, 2010 - 01:22am PT
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"...WHY?
i am sick of this crap."
Yeah, me too. That said, I don't think all of the 'developers' are bad, selfish people who are consciously disregarding impacts for their own interests. Many of these people view their actions without a true understanding of the cumulative historic impacts of many others before them. Technically, I suppose this is ignorance (in a non-pejorative definition).
There is, however, a smaller group of individuals who do have the historical perspective on impact, and it really doesn't seem to matter to them. I have a much harder time understanding them, since their conscious actions are driven by a set of values that are very different from my own.
As much as I want to respect the rights of the latter described group to do as they please, there doesn't seem to be any give-back to those who would like to see some areas left untouched.
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gonamok
Trad climber
Dont look at me like that
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May 11, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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Black Mountain was one of my favorite summer hangs for awhile, the problems are great, and the camping superb. You can get OTD with good landings all over the place there.
Michael, when you were doing that stuff at Idywild south, you had a hone that was wicked sick. It was a big deal when somebody got the repeat on the hard ones as i recall. I knew better than to even try.
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gonamok
Trad climber
Dont look at me like that
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May 11, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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Dr F, when you gonna show your face around SD again? I was hoping youd make the recent woodson thing.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 29, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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Craig-- you've got the angles right in those comps.
But that's not Moroccan Roll-- it's the big boulder on the ridge. The Roll is a bit downhill, a bit shorter, a bit steeper, and a lot thinner.
I did a quick run through Black Mt. in early June. The Lookout is open again. Good thing, too, the place looks a lot drier than it did back in the 1980s.
And there's no water in the campground. Some tweakers stole all the copper wiring from the lookout tower, then followed the electricals down to the water pump, pulled it out of the ground, and yarded it off.
So there's water in the pipes, but no pump to get it up to the taps.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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I remember when that Climbing article came out. Didn't the mag identify it as the Kong Boulder? I seem to recall a smaller b&w shot in the article with him hanging from some jugs before making the so called dyno.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 29, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
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History of bouldering in Idyllwild and no mention of Bud Couch- the shame, the shame!
Didn't Dr. F's guide make mention of Ivan "Bud" Couch putting up some of those heinous thin face problems at South Ridge? I know I've read that somewhere.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 29, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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"History of bouldering in Idyllwild and no mention of Bud Couch- the shame, the shame!
Didn't Dr. F's guide make mention of Ivan "Bud" Couch putting up some of those heinous thin face problems at South Ridge? I know I've read that somewhere."
I mentioned Couch earlier in the thread. Jim probably wasn't wearing his glasses.
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verg
climber
Fullerton, CA
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Dec 20, 2017 - 10:00am PT
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"How about the Chouinard boulder! Who hasn't been tempted to pull the beater over to the side of the road(just short of Idylwild on the way up from Hemet)and thrash through the scrub for fifty yards or so to follow in the mans footsteps...if only for a moment or two?"
Sorry to revive an old thread, but...
Can someone PM me the directions to this boulder? I believe I know the vicinity of this one.
I enjoy taking the time to see and climb old boulder problems put up and/or climbed by my heroes.
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ExfifteenExfifteen
climber
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Dec 20, 2017 - 12:17pm PT
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just north of mtn center on 243, and just past the forest service road 3E08 there will be a turn out on the west side of 243. on the right side is a drainage that had a fire go through it a few years ago. You will see boulders that look climbable. Some good, some bad, and some very awesome stuff. Big and small. Hunt around and you will be rewarded with the goods. Keep going up through the brush and it gets better...
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verg
climber
Fullerton, CA
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Dec 20, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
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Thank you! Exactly where i suspected. Those boulders are visible on 243 heading down, especially post fire.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 20, 2017 - 04:27pm PT
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Question.... is the person who started this thread named Lucas Dunn?
He looks like a kid I would run into and boulder with in County Park... around 2009-2010.
Just wondering
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ExfifteenExfifteen
climber
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Dec 20, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
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Yes it is Guy... He was an up and coming star and I miss running into him. At first, many folks gave him a hard time for using The Kid as his avatar. He was a great kid on his way to greatness. RIP
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