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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2009 - 12:44am PT
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All around good guy! Eats 1 1/4" for breakfast, Tuolumne knobs,
El Cap FA's, speed, and makes it look easy! Long ago I climbed with Steve and John Barbella and after that is when I climbed El Cap for the first time. Cheers!
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Sep 25, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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About time...
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:25am PT
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All around badass in the climbing arena and a positive, bro type a guy. Word to the Scnieder
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all in jim
climber
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Sep 25, 2009 - 03:26am PT
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Steve gets it done! Always a little under the radar, but really, what can't he climb?
Not too good at Poker, though.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 25, 2009 - 04:24am PT
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hey there steve, say, WOW ... nice to hear the introduction as to your exploits here(being that i sure dont know you)--but say, i appreciate what i've heard so far... :)
god bless to you and many happy climbs, as to the season...
hhmmmm:
ol' hankster seems to be chomping at the bit, as to shareing such exploits, and, as to teaching non-climbers like me, as to who you are--this ought'a do it.... ;)
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dustonian
climber
Foresta
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Sep 25, 2009 - 07:34am PT
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Good ol' Shipoopois. Great guy. Above average foosball player.
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bob
climber
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Sep 25, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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I love his dedication. He's helped me get fired up on a number of occasions, mostly when he wasn't around. Look at those lines! How the fug did he stance that one? Etc, etc.
His attire is award winning as well.
Thanks Steve, your stoke is endless.
And of course, since I've done Tuolumne SAR time I've heard some good stories!!!
Bob J.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Sep 25, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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Caught the slide show on his solo finish of Central Tower of Paine in Bozeman--impressed with both the show AND the man.
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Scout 2
Trad climber
Placerville
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Sep 25, 2009 - 10:28am PT
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Shipooopie is the man, Oldest guy to free the Capitan. Super nice guy getting it done on many Continents....rocking patagonia
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 25, 2009 - 10:32am PT
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great climber for years with some amazing ticks and FAs, slightly below average basketball player
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rotten johnny
Social climber
mammoth lakes, ca
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Sep 25, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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i immeadiately liked steve when i heard the story about him jumping into a tourists idling winnebago and taking it for a spin....then i was talking to steve at the tamarack ski center one morning while he ditched work for a skate workout.... his boss , rutger hour , pulls into the parking lot to get a ski workout in....steve panics like a cornered mouse and runs .....rj
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Scott McNamara
Social climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Sep 25, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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A long time ago, I was struggling with a climb in the Stronghold. I just could not figure out how to do the crux. Steve, who does not know me, was standing there with a bunch of my friends watching.
My guess is---that he just could not bear watching me thrash any longer, so he soloed up and physically turned my right foot---the other direction. It was like a miracle, the sequence went easily.
I will always be grateful, for the larger insight that he gave me.
Thanks, Steve.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 25, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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Steve is one of the funnest people I've ever climbed with. Always psyched, always proficient, always friendly. An all around great guy. Steve & Heather are a rare breed & make a terrific couple.
I recall back in 1986 or so going with Steve to the Needles & Dome rock. He could stick to some of those thin face routes at Dome like velcro. We did Carsonogenic, ( 5.12 slab )which Steve hiked like it had actual holds!
On the Gold Wall in Yosemite, prepping for a Bandaloop project.
Same place
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Sep 25, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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superfast at putting up routes ground up in the ORG, good chess player.
tried to get me to tether to a parked car in a parachute luckily it was too windy.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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Schneid-man rocks. Onsighting 5.12+/.13 OW on Excalibur just about sums it up - he can climb anything. We did the Nose in January 2000 and that was a blast and kept he things festive on an in-a-day Aquarian Wall with bottle rockets and other diversions. He looks great in pink.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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Cross dresser extraordinaire .....
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
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What can I say? He is one of a kind, for real, a guy who truly embodies that trite statement.
Been pals since 1979 when we were teenage rock stars, 30 years later we still get to work together now and then keeping the dancers safe on the ropes. He is an inspiration to all middle age climbers who still dream of doing something above and beyond.
Partner on my one climb in Patagonia, a hard route on the N. Tower of Paine. When on the second rappel our ropes got swallowed and stuck in the crack, with the storm building, for a moment I really despaired and thought we were going to die together. He cheerfully countered that the two little chunks of rope left were plenty, so lets start rappin! And it worked, just.
I think of him as a great communicator, not subtle or sophisticated, au contraire, but he STRAIGHT UP TELLS YOU WHAT HE THINKS! and he will immediately insist on clearing the air on any unsaid or residual issues that may arise between him and you, and I really respect him for that.
I am proud of him for going for it with AMGA certification and all, it is a lucky person who gets to be guided by Steve.
My dream is to get to climb with him when we are senior citizens, enjoying his big grin on some Sierra summit.
Peter
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
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Who else has freed three El Cap routes, all from the ground up, done over 100 ascents of the big stone overall, and in their 50's is still cranking out 5 ascents a year or more?!
I first met Steve in the valley when he was still in high school. He hasn't lost a bit of the enthusiasm he had then, and keeps getting funnier by the year.
In the fall of 94 I was hanging out in El Cap meadow watching Lynn free the NIAD and Steve walks up and sits down. We hadn't been in touch for a bit, and as we catch up and I tell him about multiple serious injuries three years before that have left me barely able to walk, on top of Post Polio Syndrome.
Within minutes we had hatched a plan for an ascent of Lurking Fear, which the two of us did a few weeks later in two and a half days. Anyone who is looking for a guide would be lucky indeed to rope up with my friend Shipoopi.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
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And, he's a fine neighbor to have in Oakland.
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Sascha
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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Shipoopi isn't just a brilliant climber; he's an extremely competent instructor and guide -- not to mention hilarious. In a nutshell, he's the guy you want teaching you how to place better pro, manage your rope more efficiently, commit to that exposed move, or use a wagbag at the belay. As his client, you'll feel safe, supported, challenged exactly as much as you want to be, and thoroughly entertained.
Check out his website:
http://www.blondeambitionguiding.com/
I'm going to Patagonia with Steve in January. Anyone want to come? Yeah, it's a lot of money, but it's SO worth it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 25, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Steve's always been a nice guy. And I don't know anyone more motivated. I ran into him in Tuolumne a couple weeks ago. I was complaining that we got rained off Shipoopi with only a couple warm up pitches done. He countered that it was a hell of a long way to walk to Conness to get rained off after only two pitches there. As usual, his tail was better than mine.
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pyrosis
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Sep 25, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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When I was 18 (1997) I met Steve at the gallery in Red Rocks. I had just got the thorough beat down and couldn't finish "Day in the Life." At my request, he graciously hiked the route and got my draws back for me. Thanks, Steve!
-Tavis
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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Sep 25, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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Shipoopi is the best. (Big Wall, Ice, Free Climbing, etc)
He is also a very good guide.(Safe, thoughtful, full-service and encouraging)
Have some blonde jokes ready before you talk to him, or asking him for some good ones. He loves blonde jokes.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 25, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
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Yeah, I'm hanging in Tuolumne this summer with my wife not long after the Bachar memorial...gettin' late and we're setting up to go to sleep. I hear some funky noise in our camp, thinkin' it's a bear! Steve pulls in looking for a place to crash, says he's worn out his welcome in all the other camps that weekend, we invite him to hang, so we sit around till probably midnight sharing great stories and drinkin' Jack on the rocks. Was great to have you come by Steve, always got a welcome and place to crash, on me.
Peace Brother
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ryankelly
Trad climber
sf
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Sep 25, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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steve rocks
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Sep 25, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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Steve is one of the best climbers in the world;...he has soloed 2 El Cap routes in a Day, and done 3 El Cap routes in a day...(Do I have that right?)......that right there is so out there;.....think about it........He's a awesome dude, loves climbing, stuck with it all these years;.....I have the most respect for him .....he's always super friendly when I see him too......an amazing fellow, a task master, and a real climber.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 25, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
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Hey, Shipoopi....Thanks for bein' so freaky & friendly.
Always a pleasure, sir.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Sep 25, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Did Steve knott bag the second ascent of Bachar-Yerian?
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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Sep 26, 2009 - 01:24am PT
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Yes, indeed. He did the second ascent of Bacher Yerian. Bad ass!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 26, 2009 - 03:00am PT
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I used to climb with Steve back before he broke into 5.12... I think Neanderthals still roamed the earth and maybe also climbed in Yosemite.
I should have seen his talent coming so strong. He'd drag me up a bunch of 5.10 and 5.11..I'd be destroyed and he'd be fresh, It didn't matter that the climbs were wet or whatever.
He dragged me up the Rostrum and my arms were like rubber two pitches below the top to where I had to pray to God for strength for a couple more pitches. He was fresh and claimed he could hardly do 10 pullups.
I doubt that but even climbing 5.13+/5.14 he always looked skinny and scrawney.
So I blew my mind that this stick figure could solo all 5 towers of Paine in a push. How'd he even carry the pack to basecamp?
The dude is fun, funny and one of a kind. Heather rocks too.
There's probably some appropriate slander that applies to him as well. I don't much care as I have a special name for the only people who I don't know slander about, I call them "Strangers"
Peace out Shippoopi!
Baba
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Sep 26, 2009 - 08:47am PT
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Steve is the MAn. Still so motivated and climbing strong!
I spent many a day climbing with Steve and doing sketchy f.a's
He is one of the legends of the 80's!
kurt
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allapah
climber
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Sep 26, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
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he showed me the Orinda theatre- still one of the most classic art deco aretes i've ever climbed...
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Sep 26, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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I first met Steve in Chico in 1979. It was my first day in town and at the dorm. I'd heard of this buildering traverse on the engineering building and was walking across the parking lot with my EB's to check it out when up pulled this beater car with Steve and Rick Harlan. Steve leaned out and said "hey, you must be a climber, we're headed to the Valley, want to go?" Well, that was the beginning of the end. I ended up flunking out of Chico that semester, but I got an "A" in Yosemite crack climbing 101. Over Easter Steve and I had a semi epic first wall together up the South face of Watkins. We had storms, broken bolts, and ended up coming down the wrong side of the creek. Needless to say we had plenty of other supplies to keep us going. Steve and I have done several other walls together and lots of free climbing over the years, including our April of this year trip up Tribal Rite - 30 years after our Watkins trip. Steve has always been one of my dearest friends. He is super fun to climb with, extremely generous, and as has been pointed out up-thread, totally solid. Ohh, and Werners right about the cross-dressing thing:)
Paul
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CF
climber
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Sep 26, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 26, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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Chris Falkenstein (CF) came up on the first day we were on Lurking Fear and took shots of us on the ascent I mentioned earlier in the thread. Thanks for posting up that one Chris.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 12:15am PT
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Steve's a magic dude, always inspiring and great friend to many.
I met Steve in about 1982 at Lover's Leap.
A bunch of us were way impressed with him since, unlike
the stonemasters, he seemed mortal and more like us,
yet could crank way beyond our abilities.
We saw him a lot in the Meadows that year and I remember
him fiercely playing RISK in a tent in the rain and seeing his detailed notebooks of FAs and even all the routes he had ever done. One night his little white Ford van pulled into the parking lot and he stuck his head out with his signature glasses and said "maaannnnn... thtopper popped on the headwall".
He had knocked out his front teeth when a stopper had popped on a speed ascent of the Salathe with Cashner. I don't recall if they made it in under 24h, but they did press on despite Schneider's bloody face. The legend grew...
In 1986 I moved from the Bay Area to Boulder and Schneider came
with a group of us to check out the Colorado rock. Schneider
tore up the classics in Eldorado but dignified himself by forgetting his climbing shoes when we went up to do the Diamond. Maybe he was human...
Sport climbing hit in the late 80's and Schneider hit his pink phase. He'd climbed with Kim Carrigan some and had gone to Buoux quite early so taught us all how to wear lycra and leg warmers. It was during this period he told me about going to a comp in Portland and falling off the opening moves. His mom was in the audience and he felt so bad that he immediately jammed out to Smith and did an early flash of Darkness at Noon.
1990 I moved back to the East coast, and again Schneider joined for a trip to the Gunks. Unlike many other visitors to the Gunks, Schneider seemed to have no problem adapting to the thuggishness and funky gear, and quickly bagged hard testpieces including Gravity's Rainbow and a flash of Super Crack.
Around 1996, Schneider joined us up in Rumney back before the crag had gained its notoriety. Shipoopi knew Mallory from Valley daze way back and held his own in the jive-talking that was then fashionable. He also did a quick ascent of Thin Man, an early 13 there. He's a great storyteller too and had us captivated by some tale about getting mugged near his Oakland home.
At this point, I'd lost track of Steve's climbing. It was way off my charts. I would get a phone call out of the blue. He'd be on the Headwall or Zodiac in a day or in an airport going to Patagonia, and he would just call me on his cell. I think my name beginning wiht a "B" put me near the front of his phone list...
In about 2000, Schneider and Heather were in Boston for a Bandaloop gig and we got together briefly. My fondest memory is of Steve slack-lining on an iron chain in the Boston Common and playing tag with my 2-year-old among the lifesize brass Make Way for Ducklings... When my third kid was born, I recall Steve calling and greeting me with "dude, now you're hosed!!". But then he visited again in about 2004 and played with my 3 kids in our garage gym. He even gave a little slide show in our living room of El Nino and Torres del Paine.
We spoke most recently a few weeks ago, discussing the recent losses of Bachar and Luebben, both close to him. I told him, "don't let me be reading about you on Supertopo now." He assured me that he is Mr. Safe and he always has been, despite the rad scary stuff he does on rock, he swore off many other life-threatening options (e.g. free-soloing, base-jumping, Alaskan mtns.) Still I worry... but I tell myself he's magic...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 28, 2009 - 11:53am PT
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Shipoopi is da Nazzzz! He has transcended blond... into whiteness.
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Chef Dan
Gym climber
San Francisco
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I met Steve and twenty minutes later I was climbing outside for the first time in my life, Fairview Dome, then the next day, Cathedral Peak. Two classic climbs with a living legend, how lucky can a guy get?
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habitat
climber
grass pass
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An all-around HOT blonde......
Pretty in Pink too.......
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Burt
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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I meet Steve for thew first time in El Cap meadow, I was 14, I was fixing on Zodiac and meet him by my truck he was introducing himself to my friends and when he got to me I said I know who you are no need for introductions! Awesome climber, and 14 years later still have the same level of respect for the man.
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dustonian
climber
Foresta
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Dec 13, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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Shipoopi's blonde AND totally bitchin'!! We spent three long, sweaty 90+degree days rigging a bunch of steel pipe and chain to the ceiling of the Bandaloop studio in Oakland... and we didn't get on each other's nerves once! When we did triple direct I managed to sprain my ankle around pitch 8 or 9 and thanks to much trademark Shipoopian trickery and blonde vibes we still pulled it off... my first time up El Cap in a day and one of my favorite climbing days ever!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Dec 13, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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the nor cal climbers of Rock Ice Mountain invited Steve up for a slide show on Paine and other adventures.. WHOA what a hilarious, artful, eye-popping exposition we got from the One and ONLY! There were just under 100 people there, most laughing till they spilled their beer, and in total awe of these amazing climbs. Steve is one of the few greats; no spew, highly accomplished and MORE BLONDE than a baby's butt.
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rdh
climber
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Dec 14, 2009 - 11:11am PT
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Right on! Climber extraordinaire, all around awesome person, and scrabble master to boot. One of a kind. Nice to see the bump!!!
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Zclipper69
Trad climber
mill valley
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Nov 15, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
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What are some good Shipoopi SAR stories?
VIVA EL SHIPOOPI!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 15, 2017 - 10:26pm PT
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Hell Yeah.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Nov 15, 2017 - 11:07pm PT
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Respect
Hope to rope up with you one day
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 15, 2017 - 11:23pm PT
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I can tell you he plays some mean foosball and was very gracious and friendly with my kids at Ironworks.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 16, 2017 - 12:13am PT
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I once gave him a ride to Yosemite from Davis, and was entertained by a few stories. Also recall him soloing formations at Lee Vining, and descending by just jumping off into snow drifts. Quite a character!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Nov 16, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
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Pocatello Idaho. Late 80’s.
I stand googly eyed at the sheer talent around our campfire. A ski legend, a wide master, a top shelf all around bad ass, a world class alpinist (let’s call him Rodger), some undercover crushers, and a quad of high school kids. I utter nary a word, aside from my girlfriend, I was the youngest one there.
Caught up in the latest craze of the climbing world, us noobs thought we’d throw our phallus’ in the ring and try some “competition” climbing. The annual Pocatello Pump was around the corner, and that would be perfect. Only a 4 hour drive away, even better. We talked and trained and mostly talked about the upcoming event for weeks. Peak excitement and no anxiety from teenage males. Then the car broke down. Literally. The day before the kick off of the Pump. My boss, reluctantly offers us a ride since he’s going anyway. As long as it is ok with our parents. No mention that we would be riding in the camper shell of a Ford truck and we were on our way.
As at most campfires, with more than a few people, someone would hold court. Others would sidebar. Some would onlook. One would stare down at their drink, everyone else secretly betting when they’d fall over. Here’s Rodger, holding court. We are completely star struck. One of the world’s leading alpinists, writer of stories, the same f*#king guy we see in Rock & Ice, is telling US stories. And making eye contact. Minds blown.
I start to go numb from the sheer awesomeness coming from Rodger. A voice is softly mimicking the stories, wait, is that mocking? A subtle jab at Rodger’s ego? Holy sh#t, that skinny guy with glasses is cracking me up. Who is that?
The next day, the winners of the competition were announced. Steve Schneider. That’s who it was!
As we were departing, our paths crossed, Steve came over to say goodbye to our friend. He asked how our weekend was and remarked how stoked he was to see kids coming into the fold. I had no idea who Steve was, only that he made me laugh and was nice to us. I always looked through the mags for his name after that, he made an impression. When I see a new kid at the fire, or crag, I remember how much it meant to be talked to by the “elders”, to be welcomed to the "tribe".
Thanks Steve.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 16, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
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I stand googly eyed at the sheer talent around our campfire.
Never met Steve and am nowhere near his class as a climber. Your statement reminds me of a time many years ago when I was sitting in a house in Bishop listening to Conrad and Alex plotting their next adventure. Cool guys and totally unpretentious. I imagine Steve is the same.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 16, 2017 - 08:22pm PT
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We got off to kind of a rough start but water under the bridge and I’ve enjoyed getting to know Steve over the last few years. Dude makes me laugh till Cobra is spewing out my nose!
“OK KIDS, LEO’S INBOUND, STOW THE BONGS AND THE UNDERAGE MINORS!”
So classic. Lol
Beyond his 100s of El Cap ascents, his climbs in the Torres del Paine blow my mind.
Cheers Shipoopi!
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