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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 22, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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Nice work !! Great pics too.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 22, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Zander,
I think you post my favorite TR's. Every one is a climb I've done or always wanted to do -- and now you've outdone yourself Thanks for the TR, and for the bolt replacement, and congratulations on a climb done well!
John
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 22, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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I also forget to mention that this TR is very inspiring to do this route. Somehow I missed previous Chad report from 2008. Now reading them both and looking to do it in next spring with longer days
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 22, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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A+ guys!
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 22, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
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awesome, well done!
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 22, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
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Props Zander.
Great pics/beta.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 22, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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Cool! Nice job!
Did Chad end up using one of the extra long 3/8", or a normal length one?
How is it that the LA Chimney and a 30 ft tall climb on plastic holds in a gym both end up being called "5.10a"?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 22, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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Bump for what it's all about.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Sep 22, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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Great!
I'll second Alexey's question: what would your ideal rack be Zander? I don't ask Salamanizer only because I get the sense he's the type of guy who would slim down that skeleton rack you took for the next time. What say you to us 5.10 proles, Zander?
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Sep 22, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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Damn, I'm adding this to my list! Thanks.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 22, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Well done Zander and Chad! Thanks for the route maintenance!
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mason805
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Sep 22, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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Awesome TR man.
You guys have to be pretty good because I look at that route and think, "that's only a 5.10a??"
Really sweet.
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Sep 22, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Way to go!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 22, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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Well illustrated and described, you brought us armchair types right along.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Sep 22, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
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WOW, that is awesome, good job guys! Thanks for sharing.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 22, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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nice. just saw this
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Sep 22, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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Zander! You are the man! Great trip report. An inspiration.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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Hey le_bruce,
I’m going to offer a rack suggestion but before I do I want you to notice something. If you look at the climbers who have climbed this route on the various threads- jaybro, Brutus of Wyde, Peter Haun, eeyonkee, the two Sar guys Werner mentions in the rebolting thread, Hal Hammer and his partner with his sweet TR, donini, and Chad and Mike, there is one guy who does not fit in with these solid climbers. That guy is me, 5.9 noob, and I am climbing better than I ever have in the ten years I’ve been climbing. And this is the type of climb I train for all the time. And I still got worked. I offer this suggestion with deep humility.
This is a climb where you better take responsibility for your actions. This ain’t no Supertopo climb.
2 or three micro stoppers- just in case.
BD stoppers #4 to #13
Doubles of cams from 3/8” to #2 C4
One #3 C4
Optional #4 C4
One or two #6 C4, see my TR.
The # 4bigbro. I did not need this on any of my pitches and neither did Chad. My sense was that when you can use them you are on 5.7 chimney terrain. Read Hal Hammers report, though, he disagrees with that. Make your own call.
I wore 1/8” neoprene knee braces and tan Ace type elbow pads. We didn’t tape our hands, no need. Two quarts per person with gookinaid. Could have used more. Small bullet pack worn the first few pitches and then hauled. Do not do this off the couch. Go for it, you won’t regret it.
Zander
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Sep 23, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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Great TR, brings back memories. Did you brave the Harding Hole? My fried memory has that logged as one of the wilder squeeze moments to be had.
E
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 23, 2009 - 12:12am PT
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Bad Azz Bro! I'm totally impressed. Everyone who does it say the route is punishing!
Peace
karl
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