Lost Arrow Chimney Trip Report 9/19/09


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Messages 21 - 40 of total 97 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Sep 22, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
Nice work !! Great pics too.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 03:16pm PT

I think you post my favorite TR's. Every one is a climb I've done or always wanted to do -- and now you've outdone yourself Thanks for the TR, and for the bolt replacement, and congratulations on a climb done well!


Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
I also forget to mention that this TR is very inspiring to do this route. Somehow I missed previous Chad report from 2008. Now reading them both and looking to do it in next spring with longer days
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Sep 22, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
A+ guys!

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
awesome, well done!

Social climber
Sep 22, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
Props Zander.
Great pics/beta.
Greg Barnes

Sep 22, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
Cool! Nice job!

Did Chad end up using one of the extra long 3/8", or a normal length one?

How is it that the LA Chimney and a 30 ft tall climb on plastic holds in a gym both end up being called "5.10a"?

A long way from where I started
Sep 22, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
Bump for what it's all about.

Oakland: what's not to love?
Sep 22, 2009 - 04:19pm PT

I'll second Alexey's question: what would your ideal rack be Zander? I don't ask Salamanizer only because I get the sense he's the type of guy who would slim down that skeleton rack you took for the next time. What say you to us 5.10 proles, Zander?

Sep 22, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
Damn, I'm adding this to my list! Thanks.

Social climber
Davis, CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
Well done Zander and Chad! Thanks for the route maintenance!

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
Awesome TR man.

You guys have to be pretty good because I look at that route and think, "that's only a 5.10a??"

Really sweet.

Social climber
Hercules, CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 06:35pm PT

Way to go!

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Sep 22, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
Well illustrated and described, you brought us armchair types right along.
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
Sep 22, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
WOW, that is awesome, good job guys! Thanks for sharing.

Trad climber
Sep 22, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
nice. just saw this

jamais, jamais pays
Sep 22, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
Zander! You are the man! Great trip report. An inspiration.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
Hey le_bruce,
Iím going to offer a rack suggestion but before I do I want you to notice something. If you look at the climbers who have climbed this route on the various threads- jaybro, Brutus of Wyde, Peter Haun, eeyonkee, the two Sar guys Werner mentions in the rebolting thread, Hal Hammer and his partner with his sweet TR, donini, and Chad and Mike, there is one guy who does not fit in with these solid climbers. That guy is me, 5.9 noob, and I am climbing better than I ever have in the ten years Iíve been climbing. And this is the type of climb I train for all the time. And I still got worked. I offer this suggestion with deep humility.

This is a climb where you better take responsibility for your actions. This ainít no Supertopo climb.
2 or three micro stoppers- just in case.
BD stoppers #4 to #13
Doubles of cams from 3/8Ē to #2 C4
One #3 C4
Optional #4 C4
One or two #6 C4, see my TR.
The # 4bigbro. I did not need this on any of my pitches and neither did Chad. My sense was that when you can use them you are on 5.7 chimney terrain. Read Hal Hammers report, though, he disagrees with that. Make your own call.

I wore 1/8Ē neoprene knee braces and tan Ace type elbow pads. We didnít tape our hands, no need. Two quarts per person with gookinaid. Could have used more. Small bullet pack worn the first few pitches and then hauled. Do not do this off the couch. Go for it, you wonít regret it.

E Robinson

Salinas, CA
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:01am PT
Great TR, brings back memories. Did you brave the Harding Hole? My fried memory has that logged as one of the wilder squeeze moments to be had.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 23, 2009 - 12:12am PT
Bad Azz Bro! I'm totally impressed. Everyone who does it say the route is punishing!


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