Super Short LA Sunday Afternoon TR

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MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 14, 2009 - 02:26am PT
Went to Echo with two of the (I think it's 5 or 6?) Climbing Barbies™, Bum Bicep Barbie™ and Bedlam Barbie™.

A little, back info - the Barbies™ are a group of hot, mostly single trad-climbing chicks who absolutely conquer everywhere they go, and leave the men stunned, wondering:

"who were those girls?"

We went sport climbing today, starting with the excellent 45-minute hike into Echo - guaranteed to check your conditioning.

We all love the hike - it keeps a lot of the lazy people away, and even on a Sunday there was plenty of open climbs. Oh, yeah - the rock quality keeps people away too.

In case you have never been, it's welded tuff - like Smith, but crappier. Just as steep, mind you, but enough loose holds to warrant a lot of glue. The climbing is so fun, though!

Fine climbing for anyone not offended by:

1. Loose rock
2. Glued Holds
3. Hollow-sounding features

The best sessions are afternoon - hike in in the sun, chill out for a bit, then climb in the shade until dark. We warmed up on a few short 10's, then went to the Pink Wall, where I put up Terror in New York, 5.10d. Starting (the crux):


And a bit higher:


Bedlam Barbie™ following:


and Bum Bicep Barbie™ demonstrating compensatory techniques:


We then moved over to Cloud, a 5.10c that is way harder than the 5.10d we just did. The start is full-on 5.10+ bouldering:


There is a wild overhanging dihedral at the end that tests your stemming skills:


We hiked out just before dusk to cool temps and an awesome sunset.

Thanks, Skip and Ellen - it was a great day!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 14, 2009 - 02:30am PT
making it happen, sweet
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 14, 2009 - 02:45am PT
"Bum Bicep Barbie™"

Eric = sleeping on the sofa tonight.

This was what I was working on today: http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?t=2522&start=0
MisterE

Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 02:52am PT
That's some cool history, Anders!

Skip came up with her own Barbie™ name = snugglefest for me!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
the ground up
Sep 14, 2009 - 03:26am PT
Good to see you are adapting . What can we expect as far as newrouting ? Thanks .
Manny

Social climber
tempe
Sep 14, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
Nice one E. The rock looks familiar, like some of Queen Creek's. Shouldn't you be working day and night?
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Sep 14, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
"Oh, yeah - the rock quality keeps people away too."

Thankfully, you're a loose rock specialist!

~Sooze
Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic
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