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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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A long time ago I spent the day by myself up in the hanging valley between Mount Broderick and LIberty Cap towering over the LIttle Yosemite Valley just before you get to Nevada Falls. At the time there were no routes there in this beautiful quiet place though I had already campaigned a line in 1972 that in the eighties would become Lightning Bolt Crack, a insanely overhanging long dihedral on the South Face of Mt Broderick.
But my trip was also to recon all other lines as well as have a great quiet hike and ply my old Nikon F loaded with black and white film. This is what I saw. I located the original negatives just a week ago and began work on them. In recent years I have posted a few of these images that were derived only from a battered contact sheet. Some of these images are so wonderful.
I start here with a composite image: The Mountains were formed by Ice: a double exposure with Fort Bragg's Glass Beach:
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sep 13, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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Top notch once again Peter.
I can feel the quiet and the excitement you must have been experiencing that day.
Definitely a climbers eye behind that lense!
Thanks for bringing more golden goodness to the party.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Sep 13, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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I Love the details that B/W catches, easily missed in color.
Wow, Peter, those are beautiful. Amazing.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Sep 13, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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Nice shots!
I always loved that formation.
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Sep 13, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
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the artist has a high level of familiarity/connection
W/ the subject matter - loud and clear, authentic.
U hit on something w/ the robbins portrait by
Using the hippy van and the treatment on rr's face,
A stand out effort.
Thanks for sharing!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Sep 14, 2009 - 12:14am PT
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Peter, more than stellar! Black and White seems to catch the essence of being for earth objects. And you are more than good at framing the creation.
I found my old Canon T50 last week. Dan gave it to me so many years ago so I could capture life and climbing. I did to a small extent. Now I have nothing to lose....kids all raised, and Dan's in heaven so I hope to define life even at risk through the lens of this gift given to me from one gone who knew what I loved about life.
Why Peter, when you evoke a thread, does It send to the core of my being. I don't know....but thank you. Hope to see you Sunday 9/20.
Much Love and Peace Peter Haan from lynnie
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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BOINK!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Sep 14, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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These gorgeous "straight" shots (yet more abstract), are a nice counterpoint to the recent manipulations. Love the terms, "hanging valley," and "NIkon F." Gives me power on Monday morning! Thanks again, Peter! -B
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Sep 14, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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Like Pavlov's dog hearing the dinner bell those pics got me salivating.
Thanks for posting!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Thanks for the memories from the idyllic Stone Free days of youth. Poking around the Valley walls looking for something to dream on...Beauty all around and plenty of time to soak it in!
How sweet the freedom, looking back!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 11:04am PT
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Bump! Great shots, Peter.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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Thanks Pate, all these images have more than 200-400 adjustment steps in them, by the way.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Sep 14, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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Thanks for giving us pause, in black and white, Peter.
A leisurely stroll, drinking it in, belies the gotta-get-to-Snake-Dike, or maybe full-tilt-Valleyward in twilight -- the rush, the mad dash tapping over stream boulders that has so often propelled me through that hanging valley with fond but fleeting glances at those walls.
It would be a fine place to camp, to linger, to address those very slippery slabs, when its cheerful creek flows among wild flowers.
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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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Sep 14, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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Theres a mountain lion that hunts in that canyon...I saw a really messed up dear carcasse once
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Sep 14, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
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Rack and sack up Peter. Lets go.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
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The good stuff!
Lighting Bolt Crack looks scary hard.
That scoops thing at the end looks like one of those lines of weakness that might mostly go, but could also have a blank section....
Thanks for sharing.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Sep 14, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
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Peter -
Was up there in May. Don't know when the rockfall let loose off Liberty Cap into the mid-gully? Didn't mess with any of the "routes". A couple of those pictured now have seen some action - bolts connecting the thin cracks up and right of the entrance routes.Someone must have done a couple of those wider/burley systems?
The polish in there is amazing.
Great shots.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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Thanks, Fuzzer, Clint, Dick, Dougie and everybody.
Fuzz, I didnt know about a rockfall in there. It has been maybe 20-30 years since I was in there. SO wonderful. I saw a couple of bolts BITD Fuzz. It was just below an highly obvious incipient splitter with grass in it. I don't know about other bolts. There are at least ten real routes to do/have been done? up there. And way cool.
Chickenskinner made a comment last year that he had found claw marks up high on some of the trees near the top of the valley, probably made when there was a huge snowpack in there. I guess snow must slide from both Liberty Cap and Broderick right down in the vee. Anyway he said it was bear claws made while the bears were walking around on the snowpack(?). There is quite a bit of big wildlife up there in my experience too, even way back to the early sixties. I was sure I heard a wolf up there in 1965. It just HAD to be. I don't know what else could make that giant of a howl. This was not yipping. Scientists say we don't have them, but I don't know...
Lightning Bolt is beautiful but hideous. I tried to offwidth it in 1972 with Jim Orey. Liebacking was obviously the way to do it but you would not get in protection and the sucker is well over 100 ft long. Offwidthing it wasn't really possible, it overhung so severely and was a bad size. So Walt Shipley just gunned up it with Valley Giants (or similar) back in the eighties, they were tipping out and shifting like crazy, he was up there screaming down to Werner he was going to fall, but at the last moment got something smallish in way up there. They retreated totally stunned but later Walt (with someone other than Werner!) aided the sucker, put in some bolts for to lieback it and then did the pitch. It is not clear if they continued all the way up to the summit. It is clear there is some spectacular climbing in pitches above this Walt pitch. I don't have that info.
The scoops spot in the valley is just incredible, isn't it, Clint. It blanks out, I am fairly sure.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 14, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
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sweet, thx
got any Bunnell Point shots?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 10, 2011 - 03:18am PT
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A nice way to enter the canyon is a fairly obvious 3rd class ledge skirting the base of Liberty Cap. It gets high enough that you kind of wonder if it connects back to the ground.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 10, 2011 - 10:06am PT
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I've hung out in the canyon a fair amount. I remember that exact patch of rock we calling the scoops. It's beautiful.
I don't think the scoops go anywhere, and if they did, it might be a shame to bolt it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 21, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Release Broderick Bump...
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 21, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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good bump, Mr G.
I love those pics and that area!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Apr 21, 2013 - 12:46am PT
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One lifetime is simply not enough to wander the creation, to meet and enjoy the folk that wander also.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Apr 21, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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Reading this tonight and it seems to fit the Thread.
"The true mountaineer is a wanderer, and by a wanderer I do not mean a man who expends his whole time in travelling to and fro in the mountains on the exact tracks of his predecessors...but I mean a man who loves to be where no human being has been before, who delights in gripping rocks that have previously never felt the touch of human fingers..."
"The gaunt, bare slabs, the square, precipitous steps in the ridge, and the black, bulging ice of the gully, are the very breath of life to his being. I do not pretend to be able to analyse this feeling, still less to be able to make it clear to unbelievers. It must be felt to be understood, but it is potent to happiness and sends the blood tingling through the veins, destroying every trace of cynicism and striking at the very roots of pessimistic philosophy."
A.F. Mummery as quoted in "Everest the West Ridge" by Thomas F. Hornbein.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 21, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Mummery was a fully-realized climber, an anchorite.
Thanks for the quotes Lynne. Sounds like you got inspired at the AAC gathering.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Apr 22, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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Didn't get to attend, Steve. Wish I could have.
Reading Mummery's words, especially the last several sentences, made me realize it's so much how I feel when I get off into the meadows, streams, lakes, hills, and mountains of the Sierra, Eastside.
Peter's pictures made an even greater impression on my heart and soul.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 23, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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Haan classic!
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bpope
climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Apr 21, 2015 - 12:26am PT
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Bump for some sweet looking stone in a beautiful place.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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May 28, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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From around 1980
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christinafreschl
climber
Berkeley
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Jun 14, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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Peter,
Any information on the climb to the left of the lightning bolt crack. I would like to go up there in the next couple of weeks and check out these routes. Lightning crack beta, gear? etc.
Thanks,
Christina
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