TR: The Prow on Washington Column (V,C2F, 5.6)

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Sep 10, 2009 - 01:32am PT
Nice TR Dr. and Friends. Great story and pics. Looks like you all had a fun adventure with no epics. Sweet. Glad the weather held. What up with the I like it in the 40's and yo live in So Cal ???? Smiles, lynne
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 10, 2009 - 01:39am PT
I know this guy that soloed it.

Juan
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Sep 10, 2009 - 01:59am PT
Funnnnn,.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 10, 2009 - 02:17am PT
thanks for all the photos... classic i added a link to this page http://www.supertopo.com/rock_climbing/route_beta.php?r=ybwaprow
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Sep 10, 2009 - 08:59am PT
Slave drivers! 36 hours of going at it followed by a nap then 24 hours. Yuckfoo!!! Wish I was there though.

Prod.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Boise....
Sep 10, 2009 - 09:16am PT
As do I.
The Prow was my first Wall. Great piece of stone, that Column.
Awesome TR, fellas.
I'm with Prod, though. Slavedrivers!
Esparza

Trad climber
Westminster, CA
Sep 10, 2009 - 10:06am PT
Bill, that is an excellent write up! Good work getting it done so quick like that! I had a blast up there.... Back on the Prow Ten Years After Ten Days After! haaaa.... Cheers everyone.

P.S. Those pictures are totally classic and capture how much fun and laughs we had up there.

Mike
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Sep 10, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Cool TR guys.. I only know that the walk off is terrifying!

Good onya
Moof

Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Sep 10, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
Quick Beta Note:

It is possible to avoid the Haul Bag Eating Flake on P10 by linking 9 and most of 10 (to just below the gully, 45-50m). There is a good natural ledge there with a couple cracks to build a natural anchor in that is directly above Tapid Terrace. The haul line will naturally lay in the Haul Bag Eating Flake, but by rapping down 20' on low angle slab it is easily flipped out. Getting back up to your anchor does not require jugs (it's that low angle, I only needed my gri-gri to easily batman up).
Bill Sherman

Mountain climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2009 - 02:18pm PT
(Just can't help myself...)
Bump.

Edit: written by my beautiful wife while she was logged on as me.
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 10, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
Entering the Valley to climb the Prow. I thought this pic looked neat.

Bill Sherman

Mountain climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
Jordan, thanks for posting that one. It is a great pic.

My wife decided to log on as me and make me look self-fulfilling with that bump.

Chris, thanks for adding this to the main Prow page.

Moof, I believe I read that in the beta section and tried to relay some of that info here. We didn't play it out that way but I could see that being much easier overall. Looking up from Tapir, I did notice a huge flake directly above that I could see causing problems as well. It would still be a lot easier to do a direct haul to there, climb the gully, then haul to the big ledge over the slabs rather than through the gully.
Mike.

climber
Sep 10, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
Jordan: Wow! Thanks.

Good ghost writer ya got, Bill.
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 10, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-doOLQ2Xxs

Checkout the birds waking up from the 2nd pitch and flying out to greet the day. I filmed this from under that roof at the top of P2.
Moof

Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Sep 10, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
Bill,

The second haul to the P10 anchors is still a bear, as the bags still tumble into the bowels of the gulley no matter what you do. At least if you do it my way (i.e. zone out and completely miss seeing the P9 anchors...) you only have one short brutal haul, and aren't already knackered from hauling through the Haul Bag Eating Flake.

I think my main beta is simply to let folks know that there is a nice ledge to belay from with a good spot to build an anchor if you choose to not stop at the P9 anchors. With a 70m rope it is probably doable to link from the gulley through to P11. (i.e. do P9, 10, and 11 in 2 pitches).

Good times.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 10, 2009 - 06:53pm PT


Check out the shoes

I am pretty sure I fixed the pin on second pitch. Its amazing it is still there.

As for fixed gear when I soloed it I found zip, sound like it needs a good cleaning. Having the longest reach in S. Cal I found the bolts to close together.

1987

Juan
Esparza

Trad climber
Westminster, CA
Sep 11, 2009 - 11:10am PT
Juan, nice pic....

Jordan, that is the best night shot I have seen of El Cap! Nice work amigo!
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Sep 11, 2009 - 11:23am PT
that bolt ladder looks like it was placed by midgets if you compare it to the rivet/bolt ladders I just found on Never Never Land. Horrid! 6-7 feet apart, i swear it. felt like 8!

good work dudes.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 11, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
Nice TR.
It is a cool route.
TYeary

Social climber
Huaraz, Peru
Sep 11, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
Nice TR Bill. Way to go guys!
The Prow should be on eveyone's list
Tony
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