Discussion Topic |
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 5, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
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Pete Haan and Tony Brake suggested that I dig out some of my old photos of Matt and Bruce Pollock. Unfortunately I found very few climbing related ones of them, but I did dig up some of Haan (lots), Luke Freeman, Galen Rowell, Ben Borson and others. All dates are estimates. I took all the photos except for the last one of me that Luke Freeman took.
Here is the link to the original web page, but there is nothing there that's not below:
The photos
2014_10_31 : edit and repost
It was time to add the photos and text in the actual post: Also a reminder for Peter's Nov 4 talk
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2518929/RIM-Club-Nov-4-Peter-Haan-Art-and-Climbing
begin_page_transcription{
I've uptated this to include the comments from the responses.
Peter Haan and Galen Rowell '71, Indian Rock. I gave Galen a copy of this about 2 years before he passed away.
Peter Haan Soda Springs Tuolumne, '70.
Matt Pollock North Dome. Note the Cortinas. '69. We did this with Luke.
This was one of my first digitizations, and it is pretty crappy. I just found the originals from this trip(!) and will redo them, maybe part of a Pollock thread
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
This was the first time Peter climbed it. I recall him being unconcerned about the offwidth but
pretty nervous about the the finger crack at the bottom. Note the tiny rack and that he didn't even have a swami belt with leg loops.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Peter Haan Sacher Cracker, '70.
Luke Freeman '69 or '70.
(Photoshopped by Haan)
Luke Freeman '69 or '70.
Kim Schmitz, Marty and Peter '70.
Herb Swedlund '70(?)
Ben Borson and ...?(Lyda?), Indian Rock '71.
Ben Borson top of Water Course, Indian Rock '71.
Peter with Amy and Mike in the background Indian Rock '71.
Amy and Mike, Indian Rock '71.
Me, Indian Rock '68 or '69.
(photo Luke Freeman, Photoshopped by Haan)
}end_page_transcription
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Thanks for that bunch of images! Most of these I have never seen! What a great shot of Herb Swedlund. Great image. We have talked about Herbie here in recent years by the way if you want to search it.
The second to the last image is Amy Loughman, her then-husband Mike Loughman, and I am pretty sure, Chris Vandiver. Amy later partnered with Steve Moyles for many years. She was a dancer who got completely involved in Flamenco in recent decades. Steve is known as Scuffy b here. And she kind of became famous as the cover girl on one of the first arty books on how to climb, I think by here husband, Mike. And I think it called The Art of Climbing. No one seems to know where he might be, although probably in so. Cal. He would be in his seventies I think and was geologist.
Here is that image of you climbing out front above the water fountain and stairs. I rehab'ed it to the extent I could considering some of it was missing.
And here is the Luke Freeman portrait, a great one btw, Dar.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Thanks for the photos! They sure bring the times rushing back.
Good action shot of you.
And Peter, certainly looking studly and sporting a generous smile.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Very cool shots of a moment of punctuated equilibium, Darwin. Thanks!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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great photos. thanks for posting them. galen looks like he should have considered a size up on those pants...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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very nice images
thanks for posting them
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing. Amy became a semi-regular at the Pacific Edge in Santa Cruz a couple years ago, but I have not seen her lately. She was indeed usually accompanied by scuffy b.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Bump! I worked for Cal last summer teaching their rockclimbing classes up there. It is a pretty cool/historical place.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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David,
Yeah right, Galen. If you think these are tight in Darwin’s photo, you missed his stretch Levi’s and supertight t-shirt period. That was before and shortly after you were born. That went on for about 8 years. Levi's never meant them to be leotards.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there darwin, say, course, i dont know the folks here, but any back-in-day photos are always fun...
i also very much like the old black and white film photos, they had nice patterns to them, that are not seen in the newer color types...
thanks for sharing with all the folks here...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Great Photos!
Love the shot of Schmitz, next to the Haanster. Peter you were so young and naive looking circa 70. Two incredibly powerful climbers of that era.
Mike Loughman took Galen on his very first Valley climb, the Leaning Tower Traverse, way, way back before Galen had discovered Indian Rock and bouldering. Someday I'll write up a story of Galen's first adventure at Indian and his first Valley climbs.
Mike was a big part of the Cal Climbing Club, a very talented climber, superb at bouldering and a mentor to many beginners in Berkeley at the time.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I know, Guid. I can't believe that is me, but it is. I look tiny but at that point I weighed 185-190, so I don't know. Schmitz and I climbed for a few months back in I guess 70. We did Vendetta, Left Side of the Slack, NE Butt. HCR, Cookie cliff routes, went up on West Face of Sentinel, and some climbs on the base of El Cap. We had a lot of fun for awhile. The girl he is with is the young champion speed skier, Marty Martin (sp). Craig Calonica (Captain Chaos) knows her exact last name. She was a gas and really pretty too. They lived in Kim's VW bus for awhile together.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Those are great photos Thanks! Used to boulder a lot with Amy and Mike, and I had no idea that Scuffy B was Steve Moyles! Now it makes sense that they refer to him as "mister smooth" I learned a lot about precision footwork hanging out with him at those boulders.
Got to catch up with Luke Freeman a few times in the past 10 years, my awesome co-parent Lynda B. is still in touch with him, and his job as an executive with some sort of gaming machine company (?) brings him passing through now and then.
Peter
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Check your email, Peter
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sew,
I believe Loughman as well. Royal has never been very good at remembering climbs and details of ascents. It has been going on forever. He like the broad picture and the minutiae are just power drains for him. And he soloed tons for decades. He was good at it too. Sometimes he would really put the pressure on and downclimb as well.
Mike didn't want to be the Dr of Indian Rock of course but was just there a whole lot and used it socially too. Very friendly guy, for sure. And opposite from RR, remembered tons of trivia. As I said I think he was a geologist.
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WBraun
climber
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Darwin
You sound familiar. Very Familiar.
Luke and me did Nose and Salathe walls together.
Yep, Peter that's how you looked back then.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2009 - 02:35am PT
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Peter; thanks for the touch-ups of the two photos. I knew it could be done, but I'm not that good with PhotoShop. Do you mind if I just replace the originals with them in when I next re-edit the posting (although it will make the thread a little confusing).
Amy, right! I met her in the late '80s through a non-climbing friend. I have some more photos of Vandiver at the Rock(I think).
I communicate with Luke occasionally but don't know if he ever reads Supertopo. He lives in Australia and still climbs. I think he was a bit wigged out about that accident in Australia several months ago where bolts pulled and two experienced climbers lost their lives.
Darwin
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dar,
No, replace the originals with the retouched ones, no problem with the thread and posters. And since it is your page it is even easier than with a hosting site like photobucket. There you can edit and replace too, of course.
Werner, you knew Darwin. He and I did a bunch of climbing together bitd.
Here he has a bandaid on his nose. This has to be 71, in the Meadows just before the Hourglass left.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Werner,
I was there in the Fall of 70 climbing mostly with Peter, and then I think '72 with Matt and Bruce Pollock. Luke, Matt and I were all in Berkeley High together. I hurt my shoulder in '72 on a new-route attempt on something to the right of Vendetta with Porter and Matt. I pretty much dropped out of serious climbing after that, although I've been climbing a little more over the last 15 years or so. I met you back in the day, and then again when Matt passed through the Valley a year or two before he died. We ran into you between the Lodge and Camp 4.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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I remember Amy and Luke.They were both in the Gunks one Fall.They were both great climbers.A little remote.I did some climbing with Luke.But can't remember what or where or when.If his friends never nicknamed him Cool Hand Luke it was probably because it was too obvious.
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Marty Martin is now Marty Martin Kuntz. Marti has lived just outside of Telluride, in Ames, for about 30 years. She and husband Dave are partners in an organic orchard in the low lands nearby.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Thanks #310. Hearing this I am really glad for Marty; she and I always had fun.
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FredC
Boulder climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Wow! So cool to see those photos. It takes me right back.
Mike Loughman sold me my first pair of red PA's in 1970.
Peter, you talked me up watercourse the first time I did it.
Some time about 1972 or so Amy and I were exactly the same height and reach. It was fun to vie to be the first to do some problem or other.
The last time I saw Luke he had picked up this really cool Aussie accent. I commented on it and he said his kids made fun of him for speaking so American.
I ran into Amy last week at the Berkeley climbing gym and we worked on some icky toprope. It was only 39 years ago we did that every weekend. She can still climb!
Fred Cook
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Boy does this thread bring back great memories. I loved Indian Rock probably more than any other place in my Berkeley years (1969-73).
One time, I think around 1972, Matt and Bruce Pollack and I were bouldering there when we saw a couple of Berkeley PD cars driving up rather purposefully in the direction of the Rock. Matt and Bruce kidded about hiding the dope, but before we knew it, we were "asked" to come out to the street with our hands up. When we got there, the cops said "You don't look like who we're looking for, but we need to check anyway. You didn't see anyone brandishing a gun coming by here, did you?" We decided maybe it would be best to come back later. . .
Thanks, Darwin and Peter, for reminding me of such a wonderful time and place. It's also great to see you weigh in, Fred. I'm pretty sure I read an article about bouldering at Indian Rock (in the mid-70's?) featuring you. I was living in LA by then, and it killed me to read it and not be there (not to mention that it made me feel old to see you all grown up!)
Thanks again, everyone.
John
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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pretty sweet pics.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Hey Fred C(ook)!! Nice to see you here on supertopo!
Hope you are having a great summer, lets do some skating together this winter! And maybe some bouldering at the good old rock this fall.
Peter
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yeah Randisi, that sounds like Mr Smooth.
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FredC
Boulder climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Hi Peter,
I just discovered this site recently. It is really fun to hear from all those old climber types. For unknown reasons my girlfriend and I spent 9 days in the Meadows this summer. I had to actually purchase climbing gear since my stuff is a little old. We did a bunch of fun easy climbs, Tenaya Peak, North Ridge of Conness, I even did the left water crack for the first time in about 30 years. That think is just as weird as I remembered it. We had a great time.
I just came from Indian Rock. I am so totally weak I needed chalk to get up the stairs. I can't do anything I used to. I think it is time to get the director's chair and a megaphone and maybe a laser pointer and just give people "advice".
Speaking of advice, your guidance has made me feel like a born-again skater. I am ready for snow, any time.
Fred
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Fred, You should still be able to do some serious sandbagging at Indian Rock. In the mid 80's when I was climbing with Chris Balinger, you were holding your own showing us triple variations of the.....my memory fails me - time to get back to it.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Wow, Peter, a blond???!!!!
Thanks for the photos - great memories.
I first met Matt, Bruce and Luke in C4 - their site was like a "experiment" in shelter design! Makeshift quoncets (sp), plastic sheets bent over limbs, etc.. Very innovative. They were the real deal. I remember Luke casually stating, "anybody can climb 5.10". He knew it was mental and showed us over and over again - he was very relaxed and skilled.
Werner do you remember Lukes stories about hitching across the Sahara?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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FredC, make ScuffyB take you to a WydeW (wide Wednesday)
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FredC
Boulder climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oh no, no way I'm getting back in offwidth cracks! Those things are really hard. I did Generator and Chingando around 1973 and I am still in therapy.
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Rick L
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Darwin-
Thanks for the photos. Brings back alot of memories. Do you have any photos of Bruce Cooke? I tried a case in Alameda County with your brother in law, Peter, several years ago. He is a great guy. Small world.
Regards
Rick
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Rick L.,
Good to hear from you. I think it was about 15 years ago that one of my law partners had a case with you, and said you were still climbing. I, too, would love to see a picture of Bruce from, say, 1969-73 when I was frequenting the Rock.
John
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Clu
Social climber
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Rick L, I climb with Rick Christiani in Berkeley every week. Also bouldered with Dave A, Bruce C, Jim C, Fred C, Dale B, Alan B, Peter H, Ben B, Vern C, John E, Bill F, David M, Chris V, Steve M, Galen R, Nat S, Scott F, Eric B, Tom H, Peter M, Bruce F, Darwin, Amy/Michael L, et al. Funny how Jim C and Bruce C were sooo much older than us, and now we are there...or not. Charles L.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Thanks for posting those great pictures, Darwin.
I remember Borson in those shorts of his!!
I first showed up there in Dec 71, just after your pictures.
I was new, but I'd heard of Peter. He'd done the Salathe and the
Hourglass and 3rd-classed Crack of Despair that year: there was
an article by RR in Summit (best known for his bouldering
prowess at Indian Rock...
So I started going there, Xmas break in college, started absorbing the scene. Peter showed up most of the times I went
there, always in some pretty frayed wool knickers and some
pretty frayed PAs.
Then one day he arrived in some Brand New wool knickers and some
Brand New PAs and there was a bunch of sideways glancing around
among the regulars.
There was usually a lot of action in the Pit at that time.
People did way more problems, more weird ones, greater range of
difficulty. At any given time, there were always several things
going on at once.
Peter touched the rock this day, and Everybody Stopped What They
Were Doing.
Stood back. Dropped their Jaws. Novice, Honed, Jaded, what have
you. He stopped the freakin show. He may not have touched the
ground for ten or fifteen minutes. Up, Down, across, launching,
Down-Mantling...
so This is what Robbins means by Bouldering Prowess...
Randisi, I was doing an all-night lightless descent from Arrow-
head Arete (just missed walking off the first rappel in the
chimney). Pulled off the top of a little outcrop when I lost
my balance almost all the way down. It glanced off my face and
smuushed my arm. We just kept going, made it to the clinic at
4 AM.
It didn't mess with my crimping, and I never could pull very
hard, so all in all it wasn't too tough to compensate for.
Nowadays I can't crimp anymore either, so I decided to learn
OffWidth--it all comes from the stomach.
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Rick L
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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John and Charles-
Nice to hear from you. John, I haven't seen you in ages- hope you are doing well. Who was your law partner? It's been a while, unfortunately, since I've been active. Before going back into work and sloth-imposed retirement I was, however, able to pull off the uncontested Heaviest Human Ascent (HHA) of Lucky Streaks with my pal, Dave Calfee. Charles- Please give my best to Rick Christiani- we worked together at the old North Face in the Stanford Barn, climbed locally a bunch and did our first walls together in the late 60's.
I have some very fond memories of bouldering at Indian Rock- what a magical melting pot of young and old, aspiring and world-class. I will never forget Bruce Cooke - in his 60's then - wheeling up on his bike, lacing his shoes and cranking off one arms from a fist jam in the tree in the Pit before gracefully floating up all kinds of problems others flailed upon. When one stops and thinks about the climbers who have passed through Indian Rock, the list is mind-boggling. And what a great place to sand- bag stars from afar. I can't imagine how slick the Watercourse problems must be today.
Regards
Rick
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Rick, Steve McGee was my partner in the case I'm thinking of. I'm no longer practicing (although Martindale keeps telling me that if I pay $59.00, they'll keep publishing my "AV." I wonder if I should tell them I resigned three years ago?). In my case it was a combination of sloth and mental health needs that ended my practice. I hope your enjoying these pre-golden years.
Charlie L,
Great to hear from you, too. I have a vague recollection that you and someone else tried doing the Robbins Leap blindfolded. Am I correct?
John
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Clu
Social climber
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John E, that would be Cliff Coleman. Don't think it was the Robbins Leap though...but it was on the Great Overhang. Cliff was always up to some hijink or other. He wanted to race down Claremont, me on my Masi, he on a skateboard. Now he's doing yo-yo demos internationally. Of all the misfits of that era...sheesh, what a character. Rick L, Rick C has fond memories as well, he's a commercial architect in SF.
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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May 19, 2010 - 01:01am PT
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That looks like Paul Cowan with Amy and Mike at Indian Rock in the second to last photo!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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I, too, absolutely loved Indian Rock in that era. Fantastic images of Borsen! When I moved down to Riverside to go to school, Ben followed me 6 months later to do some post-graduate work at UCR. We lived across the court in the same apartment complex and rode our bikes to and from Rubidoux. Bouldered there often as regulars. You guys might be interested to know that Mt. Robidoux has a feature still known as Borsen's Wall.
Yep, Peter, you were huge and blond--at least compared to some of us skinny kids. It was frightening, the day you arrived at IR completely shaved and bald. All I could think of was Aleister Crowley.
I was still climbing in Cortinas in '68, when I asked Vandaver if I could try his PAs. He shut me down completely.
Eventually, I came back to IR after a year or two of hard cranking on SoCal stone. My proudest day was doing Left/Far Left Watercourse one-handed, either hand. I think that was an FA.
Seeing Luke's photo brings back so many memories.
Taken not too long ago driving through Berkeley... Not a soul was there.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Taken not too long ago driving through Berkeley... Not a soul was there.
I had the same experience, Rob. Frankly, it wsa just as well, as I couldn't do almost anything any more.
Charlie, you're right. Cliff was who I was thinking of. I remember his stunt of doing the Great Overhand semi-blindfolded. In fact, he used to tell me he wanted to be a stunt man then.
John
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Some of you are mentioning Cliff Coleman. I am still in touch with Cliff. We grew up together up on Del Mar in the Berkeley Hills. He is a couple years younger than I am. We were best friends as children for years and went through endless amounts of fun up there in our hilly neighborhood and on the grassy slopes near the cyclotron. We shared most interests.
Today he lives in Oakland, has had a family, survived the passing of his wife and has grownup kids. He did do some climbing beyond Indian Rock. He came to the Valley for about a week in 1971 and hung out with me. He had no roped experience up to this point. Because I could not change my professional climbing plans one bit once he arrived, I taught him how to jumar and the next day we did Twilight Zone. I think this was maybe the second climb we did on his trip. It was crazy of course and he had to jumar most of it but the main thing was achieved, that of doing the fourth onsight ascent for me and he got a super-priveleged ring-side seat to upper level routes of that time.
Since then he became a world champion long skateboarder and actually, yo-yoer! He has filled a whole life doing this, going around the world doing clinics and showing up at events. Still a great energetic fit guy who has done quite well, he pretty much has life in a bag!
Here is a youtube of him:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFHWZ1IJ5F8
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Wonderful thread. So much fun to see guys younger than me having nostalgic moments and remembering the past. I can see that Indian Rock got much more serious than when we played around on it.
These kinds of threads that bring old friends together represent the best of ST.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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I wish I came of age in the mid-sixties.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Classic photos. Thanks for sharing them.
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FredC
Boulder climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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I bumped into Cliff one day in the 1990's and we talked for a while about the old days and he was impressed that I was still bouldering. He happened to have his board with him and he said he had been riding a lot and offered to show me "something" up on Indian Rock Ave.
We went up the stairs and I stood in front of the Ape's Traverse Boulder and watched. Cliff jogged up the street about a block then he turned and accelerated straight toward me down that hill. I was getting edgy and wondering if I could mantle out of his way before we were both mashed into the boulder when he spun the board sideways like a snowboard and slid into the curb where he stepped lightly off onto the sidewalk like it was the most normal thing in the world.
I saw Cliff a couple of years ago at Peet's (where all old boulderers seem to end up).
Fred (who happens to be in the Valley ski-skating today!)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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I wish I came of age in the mid-sixties.
Indeed.
Then you, too, could've been drafted and chucked out into the jungle of SE Asia to get fragged by the peckerwoods once you'd worked yr. way up to sargeant.
I wasn't old enough to face the draft, but I have zero desire for it to be 1966 again.
But yeah, if you avoided the Civil Rights Movement, the race wars, the assassinations, the draft, the riots, addiction, and the near-collapse of the Constitution, it was the best time ever.
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Cliff is cool, about 10 years ago, he came by the rock and talked me into being the driver for one of his Berkeley Hills skateboard slider descents. He had urethane blocks glued onto gloves, and slid around the corners in a "controlled" skid, it was awesome to watch from the safety of my car!
Fred, keep those hips forward, say hi to Glacier Point for me, heading out to skate ski myself.
Peter
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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I love it that this thread has some legs. I had been meaning to migrate the photos to the the Supertop photo bin so they show up on the first post, and it looks like I can still edit the page first posting. Is that ok, i.e. within the conventions of the accepted Supertopo usage? I'll keep the link to my site, too. I think this was only my second thread on Supertopo, and in retrospect I might have separated the Valley photos from the Indian Rock ones. Probably not though, there was too much overlap.
Hey if anyone has contact information for Vandiver or Tom Fukya, can you pass them on to me? I understand Vandiver lives near me over on Bainbridge Island. Anyone remember Justice Drake?
Fred C, it's nice to see your name here. You were, and I'm sure are, the coolist! I can't look at the stairs overhang behind Amy and Mike without thinking of you.
Darwin
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Oct 31, 2014 - 09:25am PT
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Might be shameless but it's a great thread. Thanks for bringing it back, I hope this new trend of bumping these classics continues. Enjoying the stories a lot.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Oct 31, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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So glad you bumped! Thoroughly enjoyed the banter and stories and excitement in renewing connections...and the pictures!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 31, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
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Darwin,
Man it's neat to see those shots, especially Borsen! When Robs introduced me to Roubidoux the Borsen Wall was always a reference point. It wasn't for another decade before I got to Indian Rock and made the connection. The link between oral history and stone is so rich, and thankfully alive, in some places at least.
Mike was around Roubidoux a bit back then (88/89 or so) and Amy was living in Santa Cruz, at least ten years ago.
So here's one. What's the real story behind 'Lickman's Lick'? I remember a tall guy (Burt?) pantomiming the pull-up tongue-play years ago. It was fun, but probably what he was referencing was probably hilarious. What's the skinny?
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Oct 31, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
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Great stuff Darwin. Loved Matt, Bruce and Luke. Great memories. Thanks. Hope you are well.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 31, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
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Very cool....
ST needs a IR thread just like the Stoney Point one.
or is that place all nice and quiet now?
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