Mexico: Grade V Walls, sportclimbing, BASE, FAs galore!

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Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 27, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
Hope I'm not telling anyone's ultra secret destination, but I've known about it since '98 when I first bumped into an article on the park on the "internets". Bumped into the article again today doing some house cleaning and going through my "secret stash." Now (2009) there is plenty of info on this Mexico National Park. Google info, image, and video it. Looks awesome.

So whats happening down there? Anyone know about some of the climbing development there?

Sumidero Canon, Chiapas, Mexico
http://www.locogringo.com/chiapas/sumiderocanyon.html
http://www.luxuriousmexico.com/wwwluxuriousmexico/Luxurious%20Mexico/Products/EnglishProducts/ChiapasChiapadeCorzoEcotourism.html

Caņon del Sumidero
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMsLbJhXZwI&feature=related

Here are many very nice images of the Canon:
http://www.luxuriousmexico.com/wwwluxuriousmexico/Luxurious%20Mexico/Products/GalleryChiapas.html
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
Now I know I post OT a fair amount. But, man this is definately climbing related and no comments?

Com'on.

Wow, tough crowd.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
No posts in 15 minutes!!!!1111666

Damn... on topic stuff just has no legs these days.
snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
I don't have much to say but I will mention that I bookmarked this thread.

Very Interesting....
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Aug 27, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
Who'd want to go there? Just full of dirty illegals?

Think that will get some interest?

That limestone looks as good as any, there routes there?
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
Seems like the Verdon of Mexico.

The limestone a little less perfect and more humity for sure, but way more adventure and a little of everything. Looks like a place to really check out.

And you can boat to climbs, add in caving, and then make a BASE jump into the reservoir - a water landing, and then get picked up by the same rented local boat.

Could probably stay a long time for cheap. The beer is good. Mexico wants and needs the tourists. Lots of FAs to do for sure.
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
Here is some more . . .

The Canon is in the State of Chiapas so you have tropical forests, Mayan ruins, Jaguars, and yes you even have crocks!!!

http://chiapas-politicos-presos.blogspot.com/2009/04/chiapas-tgz.html

Check out the crock somewhere along the reservoir within the Canon. Maybe a water landing after BASE isn't such a good idea:
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x8p8od_bofo-bautista-en-chiapas-canon-del

Here is another that is really good. Looks very adventurous . . .

Caņon del Sumidero - Maravilla Natural Chiapas
http://tinyurl.com/mzjs7d

Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
Found this image:

http://montanismo.org.mx/images/upload/sumidero18.jpg

This thread definately needs some linked color and real images . . .

Sumidero Canyon As Seen From Above
http://www.geo-images.com/huatulco/sumab/sumab.html


Wikipedia on the Canon:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sumidero_Canyon

Here is a video on the ecosystem and wildlife of the Canon . . .
parque ecoturistico caņon del sumidero
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-yfcVsQ4SA&NR=1
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 27, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
I was there helping deliver medical aid in 2004. I'll post up some pics when I've got some time. I didn't get any climbing in, but I went down that river one day. The people were amazing and the scene was chill.

edit: I wouldn't swim in that river. There were LOTS of crocs up and down the whole thing.
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
JR,

I would like to see your images. Looks like an incredible place. I went through Chiapas in the summer of '88 but didn't know anything about this park. Pretty cool wildlife: jaguars, spider monkeys, toucans, and yes crocks.


Here are 7 "borrowed" images that I did not create, but they sure show the rock well . . . so finally this thread will get some color.










Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 12:24am PT
http://www.grupoescalachiapas.com/

looks like there is a group of climbers in the area, enough to warrant guides. I'll check into my old photos when I get home tonight... such is the life of a grad student.
melon

Trad climber
Redlands, California
Aug 28, 2009 - 01:32am PT
Cool. That group doesn't update their English website, but the Spanish-language site has a ton of info. Here's a bad (google) translation of their site about Sumidero Canyon:

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=y&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.grupoescalachiapas.com%2Fge_esp%2Fcanonsumidero.htm&sl=es&tl=en&history_state0=&swap=1

Even better yet is this pdf;

http://www.grupoescalachiapas.com/ge_esp/DatosimportantessobrelarutaHombresdelPa_ueloRojo.pdf

a guide to climbs in the canyon with what appears to be excellent route beta, rating, directions, description of pro, rappels, etc. You can read the (again bad) google translation of of that pdf's text here:

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=y&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.grupoescalachiapas.com%2Fge_esp%2Fcanonsumidero.htm&sl=es&tl=en&history_state0=&swap=1

Just started looking around on their site and posted hoping others would find more good stuff.


Anyone wanna go in on a copy of Rosetta Stone? :)
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:19am PT
Ok here's some photos from 2004.

My parents go down to Chiapas to the town of San Cristobal once or twice a year to do medical mission work. It's all free meds, surgeries, etc... Mostly for the Mayan Indian population that the government isn't interested in helping and these people are beyond dirt poor. Most travel (on foot) for several days to reach the clinic when the docs are down there. Lots of club feet, cleft palates, burns (my dad does reconstruction), hysterectomies, dental and everything in between that would never get fixed otherwise. For most, it's the only time in their life they'll even see a hospital.

they work with what they've got, so not a lot of anesthesia. (how'd you like to be awake and watching your surgery with just a bunch of local anesthetic? Nuts huh?


The younger kids keep the kids entertained while their folks are in surgery.

and there are a lot of kids around.

This is one of my favorite pics. We played ring around the rosy while the local folks burned the medical waste. Ironic since "ring around the rosy" was originally about the bubonic plague (or so I'm told)

The town of San Cristobal is amazing and the architecture speaks of the rich history of the region.


My brother and I (white coat) in front of a cathedral after hitting up the Cocodrilo (bar)

same church, from a different angle

And when they say there are crocodiles in the river, that ain't kidding. This is at the Cocodrilo Bar and came from the canyon del sumidero.

probably was this guys dad

The Christmas Tree formation mentioned earlier is definately a tourist snap shot opportunity. The tour boats run the river once or twice a day (about 40 per boat), but other than that it's only local fisherman.

And there are DEFINATELY FA's to be had. This wall is huge, probably over 1000'.
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:25am PT
If anyone is headed down there and looking for people to go, I'd be interested. I know a couple people that are in and out of the region. The canyon is a couple hours by bus from the "airport" and boats should be easy to rent. Plus that spanish guide service to the area hints that the locals are strong!
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 02:55am PT
Very cool. Thanks JR and Melon for links and photos. Great! It looks really good.

Here is a detailed topo for a route put in 2006:
"Hombres del Panuelo Rojo"

http://www.grupoescalachiapas.com/galeria/granparedsumidero/topo.jpg

Here is a detailed pdf that goes along with it and has pitch by pitch beta, and contact info.:

http://www.grupoescalachiapas.com/ge_esp/DatosimportantessobrelarutaHombresdelPa_ueloRojo.pdf
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 03:20am PT
Grupo Escala Chiapas has a great resource in their photo gallery. They are definately getting stuff done. Seems to me things are just starting to get going. Lots to do. Seems like a great opportunity to do something and get involved with the local climbing community:

http://www.grupoescalachiapas.com/gallery/
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
Aug 28, 2009 - 11:30am PT
WOW!! that is totally wild!
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 04:05pm PT


accessible only by boat, there are several shrines like this. Really shows some of the rock texture too.

The Christmas Tree Formation

Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
Blatantly scooped from the Grupo Escala website gallery:
http://www.grupoescalachiapas.com/gallery/




Makes me want to go back. My family will be there in February. Looks like it's about time for me to go back as well ;)
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 29, 2009 - 01:08am PT
bump.... cause this thread is actually on topic and awesome!
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2009 - 04:41pm PT
I agree this is awesome.

If you go through the website for Grupo Escala carefully, you will see they are into climbing, spelunking/caving, canyoneering, river descents, and all inter-related with Archeology.

They are finding many caves high up on vertical limestone cliffs with native bones and relics, never seen before by modern man. These Mayan like people were climbers thousands of years ago and did very serious ascents just to get home, or to worship in these vertical temples. Many human sacrifices were done also in these caves they have discovered (sick and weird but the way it was sadly).

Their discoveries are incredible. Pretty cool when you can seriously combine science and climbing together.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Aug 29, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
Really awesome. How would that feel to climb up into a cave to find relics of human sacrifice. Yikes!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 30, 2009 - 11:26am PT
Awesome thread! Lots of stone south of the border!

On the way out of San Cristobal toward Guatemala, the restaurant on the second floor left serves the tastiest chile relleno ever! Dream food! I hope that it is still there!
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Aug 30, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
Great post... actually climbing related too... so rare now days!
Looks like endless bolting prospects .... Dave Turner, bring your endless supply of rivets!
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Aug 30, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
Not to bring up bad blood, but doesn't Kurt Smith post on here sometimes. I think that he would have a lot of practical knowledge and skills. They would probably be valuable on a trip down there. Maybe Todd Gordon, and his experience with both aid, and American Southwest cultures could provide insight too. Does Nat. Geo. still accept proposals for expeditions, and provide funding?

The archaeological bit seems interesting. The cliff wall homes reminds me of something I saw about Chaco Canyon, located in the N. Amer. Southwest. I never got to read Jared Diamonds book COLLAPSE, but I suspect that there might have been some tumultuous times that affected areas across Central and North America.

If there was a large scale failure in agricultural, it might have caused migrations to areas that were more hospitable. The resulting pressure on resources likely resulted in conflict. Interestingly, people are still following the seasonal patterns that provide us with a stable food supply. Many other thoughts too.

Anyway, just watched part of a documentary on HBO, "Which Way Home". Definitely worth a look since the current economic crisis will likely result in more strict border closures. Also. I admire your work in Chiapas, as well as those that traveled there in the 80's and 90's.

In the words of the Karl B., Peace
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Aug 30, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
Awesome looking limestone walls! and the river below loaded up with crocs, that just makes it more exotic. Time for some ST'ers to mount up and do some first ascents!
Magic Ed

climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Aug 30, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
Sorry to rain on everybody's parade but while the Sumidero Canyon is a spectacularly beautiful place, 99% of the rock itself is crap. Manky, chossy, crap. If you want good quality, big limestone walls you have to go to the Eastern Sierra Madre around Monterrey in northern Mexico. El Potrero Chico, Huasteca Canyon, El Salto (San Cristobal), Puente de Dios etc. And when I say etc., I mean ETC. There are so many miles of big walls in the area it boggles the imagination.
bicyclesmith

Big Wall climber
Oregon, USA and Chiapas, Mexico
Sep 19, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
If anyone out there is still interested in the sumidero canyon in Chiapas, Mexico, I just posted some info on mountainproject.com about the first ascent of hombres del panuelo rojo. For more specifics about this route or other climbing opportunities in the area, feel free to contact me at bicyclesmith@gmail.com. I was fortunate to live in Chiapas for six years and to be part of developing around 80 routes in the area. There is still endless potential for new routes, especially in the sumider canyon.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Sep 19, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
Nice Klimmer!! Was always a big fan of climbing in Mexico, and just going to Mexico in general...Cheers!!:)
dirt claud

Sport climber
san diego,ca
Sep 20, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
I was in Chiapas at El Sumidero about 3 years ago, I wasn't a climber at the time so didn''t even think about that, but it would definantly be a good place to climb. Only thing is it gets very humid in that area. San Cristobal is a great place to visit and experience. It's a hub for International travelers that want to experience the feeling of colonial Mexico, I believe it was founded in the 1500s. Just walking through the town makes you feel like you stepped back in time a few hundred years. Awesome nightlife too.
I have video I took of the canyon when I was there, I will post it if i can transfer the video to a computer file.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 20, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
here's the link that bicyclesmith mentioned a couple posts up (the revival bump)

http://mountainproject.com/v/international/north_america/mexico/106894422

Looks cool!

would love to hear and see more about your other ascents as well!

thanks for posting up,
Cheers!
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 20, 2010 - 10:36pm PT
Rad! Sweet ascent and cool looking route. Is it mostly a free route? How much aid is there?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 26, 2012 - 12:48am PT
Mexico looks cool.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Apr 26, 2012 - 12:51am PT
It's like you knew already, Mike. Folks that roam around find the Gold.
Lotta Gold in them thar hills, huh?
Still.
Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic
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