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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 27, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
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Hi All,
I’ve got some questions about updating the fixed pro on Lost Arrow Chimney. It would be cool to only replace bolts and pins that wouldn’t freak people out. Any feedback is welcome.
P1. Rumor has it the anchor bolt(s) are gone. Maybe not needed?
P2. Rumor has it the anchor bolt(s) are gone. Maybe not needed?
P3. OK
P4. One protection bolt crucial. Should be replaced.
P5. OK
P6. Bolts on the topo rumored to be gone. Re-install? Anybody know if these were crucial pro?
P7. OK
P8. Crux pitch. Replace one (or both?) bolt.
P9. 4 bolts on the topo are rumored to be three bolts and a pin. Replace.
P10. OK
Maybe a couple of crucial pro pins should be replaced.
This is just what I’ve heard. Who’s been up there recently? What do you think? I’m not even sure I’ll be going up there myself. It would be fun though.
Zander
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Hi Clint,
I talked to Chad. I called it rumor only when I got the sense that they were cranking so hard they just might have missed something.
Z
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 27, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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As I remember there's a lot of choss and rusty old crap Rawl bolts, some with no hangers, and the bolts that are there are in weird places - read worthless - for someone free climbing.
I say clean ALL the old shite and replace it with just the stuff that's needed. Some the the rock in the back of those upper reaches is pretty grainy thoug, so it might never really clean up.
Same goes for the tip. That thing used to have a lot of varied crap on it. Maybe that should be cleaned up as well, if it hasn't already. Haven't been on it since the first free ascent in '82???
JL
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Aug 27, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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I like the route the way it is.It's not like it's a bolt route.Its only 10a.The bolts are just old aid gear which should be left to rust away in all their historic glory.If you want to replace bolts we have sport routes far more in need of fixing.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
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Ha ha,
The big dogs have reported in, Largo and Cilley, a light touch is required.
Noted!
Z
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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Go talk to Maddog and Gleason on sar.
They just did it a week or so ago.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
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That was a hundred years ago.
Get with it people to find out the current state of a route to fix talk to somebody that has just done it.
Not about people a hundred years ago ....
edit: The wanker just delete his post.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
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I did the second or third free ascent of the LA Chimney. Six hours. As far as I am concerned, the crux---a section of only about 20 feet or less---was badly protected. I remember climbing over A3ish pin or two and a couple of absolutely imaginary tied-off bolts that were sticking out.
So, to answer the question, just fix those 45-year-old or older POS's on that pitch. I think there was like two and they were weird as hell?? There are also some bogus bottomed-out pin holes there that resulted from direct aid....and the stone is soft and super-granular, friable at this point and overhanging. A fall here is NOT recommended as you would drop into kind of a flaring, coarse "buzz-saw" (as Herbie Swedlund used to depict it). The rest of the climb is kind of like what Largo says, the old stuff is sort of off-the-mark. What an epic it must have been at first! That's my recollection from back then. Doing the crux without good fixed protection is of course what the route was all about back then..... but just replace the gross couple of things that we used to use in the crux. Otherwise, the route is a classic and is not a trade route, will never be one, so don't start paving it as if we owed it to future generations to tame the sucker down to a point where it loses all its history.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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Peter H. and Werner B,
Thanks guys,
I think this is a great route! Don't want to mess with it. On the other hand don't want it to be a "death route' either, as someone recently told me. Climb on!
Zander
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:45pm PT
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Well said Peter
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Consensus being reached ?
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Did the route as well as the exit out of the notch a few years ago. In my memeory it seems that with cams only up to #3.5 camalot and double Aliens you can protect the whole route pretty well (except where it is a friggin' chimney). On pitch 8 ,5.10 ow, the old star drives could be updated. I can't quite remember any crucial pins that didn't have natural gear with in arms reach. A good aventure no matter what the gear is. One of my favorite climbing memories.
Pat
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:05am PT
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It would be worth reviewing the account of the first ascent, and the first few free ascents, to see what can be learned. Perhaps also talking with those who made the first free ascents, to learn what was in place then, and get other perspectives. That route has a lot of history.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:37am PT
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Anders, I am the second or third free ascent, as noted just above.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 29, 2009 - 02:06am PT
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Thanks - I should have said "in addition to Peter". Sorry. There must be several SuperTopians who did it in the 1960s and might comment.
The history of climbs is a subject of interest to me at the moment, both generally and specifically. I'm working on a history of climbing at Squamish, planning and organizing. Plus thinking about restoring the first route on the Apron at Squamish (Slab Alley), which has become overgrown and is rarely climbed. First done in 1961, not hard at all, but unfashionable in that it involves traverses and runout moderate slabs. It's been quite interesting piecing together the historiography of the route. Who did the early ascents, what they did where, and so on. I got a copy of a hand-written route description from soon after the first ascent, and some photos of the second and third (I think) ascents.
I want to do it right, and so before doing anything need to learn as much as I can, and discuss it with those interested. Remembering that Slab Alley was climbed almost 50 years ago, with mountain boots (maybe Kronhoffers), with perhaps five or six bolts - there may be 13 now.
It's not a mega-classic like the LA chimney, but there may be parallels.
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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