Discussion Topic |
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2009 - 12:55am PT
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The psyche of America is tied up in the "road trip." When you think of it, we're a restless culture always thinking about going somewhere else hungry to taste those exotic flavors of far off places. Think of the great American novel, Moby Dick which is essentially a road trip novel... or Kerouac's On The Road. There are those American's that thought that staying put was just as good, Thoreau disdained the European Tour Circuit and stayed put in the Northeast. But he also has some profound thoughts, of course... “How vain it is to sit down to write when you have not stood up to live.”
If I have not been present on these pages for a while it is because I was living... now is the time for writing.
What a road trip it was, to Vedauwoo 09. We have past the way before, this time in 510 OW, Jay and I, with much uncertainty as to who would be there. We landed Saturday nigh at Mike "Freddy" Friedrichs' place in Salt Lake City. This is now a much anticipated way station to adventure.
Mike had been communicating with Dingus McGee, who had a special spot to introduce us to... now a prelude to our visit to Vedauwoo proper... somewhere in the Laramie Range, a climbing area being developed, and we would have the privilege of a first climb on its routes.
Five hours of highway driving, 50 odd miles on dirt roads, "trending Northeast" and we arrived. Dingus was waiting for us... but it was late and we ate and retired for the morning.
Isn't it wonderful that there is always something familiar to see, even in the new world. Take a moment to watch the stars...
We were to visit two cliffs in the morning, the area? well I can't say, but it does exist... and you can find it if you know where to look:
don't take the name too seriously, it was what I was allowed to say because Dingus knew you'd ask.
A bit cool, this is a summer crag, Jaybro lights a fire, Mike gets the water on for coffee, and Dingus looks over the operation
Did I mention the frost, and frozen water bottles?
and the clever use of dry wall tools
and soon enough we're on our way in the classic climber's van
to the path in the woods to enjoy a day of climbing.
Mike is the designated rope gun, he's the youngest of the group with ages greater than (or equal to) 50 years. Stacking our ages up one atop the other nearly takes us back to the birth of our nation...
...he gets a start on a route "A bit harder than it looks, aye Freddie?"
Up a 90' cliff in a drainage filled with Aspen...
Dingus is really interested in a particular climb, he later named Bear Humper rating unknown, but maybe Mike can chime in, something like 5.11. The start
the first attempt on the roof, Mike cuts loose
but figures out the more effective way
albeit strenuous
unlocking the climb and reaching the logical high point
We went around to the face shown below to do a couple of warm up 5.9 climbs, and a run at another line.. Dingus was happy and would return some other time to continue his labor of putting the routes in...
a fun crag.
More spectacular all in all was the second crag with some nice 5.11 sport routes... this was our afternoon repast. Mike leading the first of three on this crag
and the last few moves to the chains
Jaybro takes a lap too!
Mike reaching on another route, excellently steep and featured face climbing
We packed up and headed out to Vedauwoo to meet up with the crew... we didn't know that there was a change of plan... but we did know that we three would be there on Tuesday.
Dingus' share was quite a nice little start to our trip. Maybe someday soon there will be a guide to some of these little areas he's got spread out all over creation.
Hopefully Jaybro and Mike will add some thoughts and photos...
...next will be Vedauwoo...
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:22am PT
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Good stuff! Like that first pic.... I swear it starts to move or something....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:36am PT
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That first one was like.11a+ the second hard one (that Mike led) was about a number grade harder. That wierd top rope one that hammered me was pretty hard, too...
Warming up the photobucket...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 02:29am PT
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"The icy blackness doesn't last long, just long enough to choke you and freeze you to death."
Much as I love the works of Kerouac, he could often appear as a half empty kind of guy, happily our own experience was more Positive.
Photo taken from the Cab of Fred's luxurious new Tacoma, he was able to parlay his '82 Toyota pickup (300k miles) into a $4500 credit via Cash fer Klunkers. Good things occasionally really do happen for good people...
Fred, Dingus Mcgee and Lute on a typically balmy heavy frost morning in August in the Laramie range. Note Lute eyeing the fire, he snaps at sparks, this may figure into later reports in this ms.
Mike leading the Bear humper, our .11 warmup on a morning just over 32º, all that saved me on this route was being taller than these guys and having a plus 4" ape index....
Then we did some legitimate warmups and a TR variation that tweaked me hard. we went back to the original wall, now in sun, for Mike/Fred to jump on this 5.12, A3 thing, here he is, nearing the Bidness, and yes the business was sport climbing;
Mike contemplating the aid section
before it was decided that the belay anchor would be lower.
Stay tuned for more, as the Voyage of the Magic bus continues.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 26, 2009 - 09:46am PT
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MUCHOUS THANKS. . . ED.
CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE REST OF THEM!!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 11:50am PT
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On Tuesday we find that the Colorado contingent is not due in until Wednesday evening, and that Em (aka Nurse Ratchet) will be flying in and we will pick her up then... so we are free to play around.
Out to Poland Hill to do Fantasia, which Mike and Jaybro haven't done in decades...
They warm up on Sugar Crack 5.7 which I top-rope, and we all TR Escape from Vaudeville 5.8 right next to it... ah touching those crystals again...
Then around the corner, Mike starts up Fantasia
and has no problem sending it, even if he changed from right to left side in a number of times...
Here is the video of Mike's lead:
http://www.vimeo.com/6282510
We also TRd Piece or Dirt 5.11a right next to it... even more and sharper, but smaller crystals...
Wandering off into the prairie to find some boulder problem projects, here around the Bistro Boulders as we leave... though I can't recall the name of this.
Mike also works the starting moves of another wild crack boulder problem, but we are content and leave for dinner, end of day 2.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 26, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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I think I bruised a lung up there, either from laughing or thrutching.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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Basecamp in Vedauwoo established,
But, what is this?
Time for Poland Hill;
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
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Cool ! Looking forward to more ..
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
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Yahoo! More please.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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Ed's butt headed up sugar Crack, which I would reccomend for any one's classic tour/warmup circuit what a fun climb!
A footnote to Ed's photos, really competent lead belayers always stand when on duty, though some of us are lulled into complacency, belaying guns way below their limit even when they go wrong side in.
Fantasia was the first route in SE Wyoming rated 5.10. Currently it's .9 and has been .8 Cavaet Emptor ! harder than say Chingando...
So, after Fantasia we turned to Piece 'o' dirt, a truly ferocious for the fingers .11 razor sharp crystal quest;
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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On to those Bistro Boulder problems,
Note that young Sprout Mike, (50) almost sending some scary flarey shitd in his Acopa Scramblers;
He had it! what a weanie, har!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 26, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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NICE!
Wish I could of made it this year...the pics help ease my pain
Thanks!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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Have no fear Tom, we prolly got another thousand shots to pain you with. and all kinds of narrative drama that may or may not be unfolded...
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
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We need Captain Manny to post up his collection, I sent him the one shot I have around the scuffy tree, hopefully he'll show up right on narrative time.
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L
climber
Return of the Rebel L Gang
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Aug 26, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
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Edzilla,
You are the best!
It's been worth the wait.
FYI--your TR's, aided and abetted by Jaybro's witty supplementations, are what climbing and the Taco are all about.
(I'd be lying if I said I was patiently awaiting further Alien Invader reports...so... ;-)))
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 26, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
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UNFOLD UNFOLD!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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Yeah, Cap'n Manny, what ever happened to that hombre?
hangon there's more
a'foot.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
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I think the alien theme comes back in towards the end of the trip...
...I've got something hatching...
...sorry for the linearity of this, time-wise... it's the pre-geometry thing
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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you and your theories, the proletariat has nothing to lose but his strings...
is a succubus an alien?
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Aug 26, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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Very cool. I wish I could have made it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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let me dream on that one, Jaybro...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Sometimes it, Is, better to lose your dreams....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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Onward
into,
the recent
past...
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 26, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
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Is that a fulgurite right there or is the rock just happy to see me, er those coeds?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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"Lightning always strikes in the same place twice," William S Burroughs.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 26, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Sweet road-trip fellas!!!!
What's up with the hot chix hangin around???
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
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I'm not going to get into it but Edzilla of the bus,might have been the choreographer, it was a drag when he had to ride on top....
Maybe L has notes...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 26, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
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Just look who showed up there. . . check this out
They're lookin' at LOCKER--look at that blockhead!!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
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knew I felt that weird mojo...
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Aug 26, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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Nice like rice!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 26, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
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Nice! Did the Bandaloop crew really show up at The Boogaloo?
Awesome pics!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 26, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Eric, I don't think that's Hartouni and Jaybro in the blue tights hangin upside down!
Maybe...maybe Jaybro, not Ed though...
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 26, 2009 - 08:41pm PT
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Actually E it was a homegrown version of Bandaloop going back to 1924.
http://www.jharp.net/vertical_dance.htm
“In 1922, Maybelle Land DeKay, a child prodigy in her own right, and then a Drama and English Professor at the University of Wyoming, found what she was looking for, a perfect natural amphitheatre in a very primitive setting roughly 20 miles east of Laramie. Her vision was to produce a play in the out of doors describing the history of Wyoming, from the cataclysmic birth of its rugged mountains to the coming of civilization.
Fascinated with Indian legend and myth of the region, she wanted to give her pagaent an Indian name. Newspaper articles of the time describe how she sought out the Arapahoe and asked them what their word for 'earthborn' was, coming up with "bi-ito'o'wu". This was then anglicized to "vedauwoo" (now pronounced 'vee-da-voo'). The pagaent was of rather grandiose scale, containing some 500 fanciful and historic characters and was written in 5 long episodes. 'Grand Teton', god of the mountains, was advisor to Vedauwoo, who was smitten with the goddess Wyoming, and on it goes.
Of course at that time, there were no roads into the area, so oxen-drawn plows were employed to level an access path into 'Vedauwoo Glen'. During the play, boulders were rolled down the cliffs to signify thunder and fireworks were exploded to simulate volcanic activity. A live musical score was orchestrated. The original play drew spectators numbering in the hundreds (nearly 1,500 once) from as far away as Denver, Kansas and Nebraska. Despite great enthusiasm, the play was held only three times, once in 1924, and twice in 1931.
Shortly thereafter, Ms. DeKay was divorced from her husband and was subsequently fired from the University Faculty, ending what was considered a quantal leap in theatrical production. As incredible as it sounds today, it was against the law (back then) for a single woman to be employed in a State funded position. Her untimely departure from the University signified the end of the production, but the strange and evocative name derived for the play and used for the area as well remains to this day.
Early in 1997, a spark was rekindled at the University to possibly recreate the pagaent with a more contemporary twist. Under the extraordinary and creative leadership of Ms. Rebecca Hilliker, Chairwoman of the Department of Theatre and Dance, a more modern version of the original play was produced, with inventive choreography by Margaret Wilson. Over the next year, while care was taken to retain much of the original spirit of the play, characters were 'updated' to appeal to a more modern audience and an original musical score was written by Kevin Hart.
Technical rock climbing and vertical dance techniques were integrated into the script by Neil Humphrey (Prof. of Geophysics) who anticipated suspending several actors/students high on the rocks overhanging the audience where they would perform gymnastic dance routines, creating a rather spectacular supporting theme.
The first play took place in September of 1998 to an audience of over 400 spectators. While moderately successful, it foretold of better things to come. The play emphasized more aerial improvisation in 1999 and many more tickets were sold. The 2000 performance was based on the new concept of "vertical dance" (somewhat reminiscent of Project Bandaloop) and was performed mostly on the Coke Bottle formation to the west of Fall Wall. The 2001 performance, entitled "Life in the Balance", occurred on September 9th. A blend of creative acting and dance was performed on the ground, and overhead there was free-floating balletic and gymnastic movement in three dimensional space against a backdrop of Vedauwoo's highly unusual rockforms. Since then, the Production has been performed each year for a large, highly diverse audience."
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 26, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
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chix hanging upside down. i don't know how i feel about that.
but I bet you guys liked it!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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It's not hard to get a good night's sleep after a couple of days of climbing at Vedauwoo. Wednesday came and the plan was to go and climb the uber-classic Mainstreet 5.10a. There was just one little problem: the UWy dance company was practicing for a vertical dance performance... Mike was defiant, "they can't just take over, it's a public area!"
Well the notices from the Forest Service did mention that some of these areas were going to be restricted. We wandered up over to Fall Wall and asked, then got permission to climb... it helps when the director of the company went to high school with Mike... we weren't just a bunch of yahoos (or maybe we were...).
There is something about being twice as old as what once would have been the object of desire...
lots of artistic inspiration has been generated by those longings...
Mike, however, kept his head and made sure to ask the dancers if they had adequately protected themselves ...
...against sunburn, "and your ears too?" sort of a professional interest in the public health... he sounded just like a dad...
...and Jaybro rose to the occasion (just a figure of speech, ya, that's the ticket)... and took up the lead. I had done this once two years ago, left side in, but followed Jaybro's left side in low which worked great.
As you can see, the dancers where walking the ledges... I hear one say "gee, I wish I was 8 again, I wasn't afraid of this when I was young." Whatever age she was now, my thought was she was ok just where she was.
Jaybro kept his mind on his bidness, here in the crux
and making for the large rest, now turning around...
It is a great climb and Mike and I where happy that Jaybro got the rope up there... either it's really much easier right side in or I've figured out a bit more of this wide game in the last two years.
The day was getting warm, so we went over to the Holdout... our objective was Currey's Diagonal 5.10b, another uber-classic...
I belayed Mike on this and didn't get any lead pictures... but I did get Jaybro's follow... here he is at the crux
my back and hip were complaining so I backed off, it was cold and I was tired from the good trip up Mainstreet and we were about to get Em, who was on schedule coming in from the Bay Area, flying into Denver, and shuttling up to Laramie... ETA 3:30 pm. We finished off and headed out... Mike was going for a run...
...we got Em, returned to camp to get her settled and wait for Bill Kuestner, aka "Captain America", to show up. Bill shows up, then Mike and the five of us go off to the Fall Wall area. For three years in a row, we've had Bill lead 5.11 Crack 5.9 which he makes a strong showing on. Mike starts lobbying Bill to lead Fall Wall Route 5.10a... which he does with grace! Bill does more boating these days then climbing, his rack was still setup for 5.11 Crack from last year... the last climb he did was with us.
I was belaying and didn't get a lot of shots....
here is Bill belaying someone on Fall Wall Route, with Jaybro lurking around.
amazing that Jaybro, Mike and Bill are a large contingent of the 1970s Vedauwoo FA-ists; certainly a privilege for me to count these guys and gals as friends.
Em had a good day, here she is doing the "light switch" crux move on the Fall Wall Route, with no apparent problem...
It was "beer-thirty" with pretty light, time to go and eat a bit and have a beer to continue the stories and slander around a campfire.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Aug 26, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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Man, those ARE some tight bums...and I'm not talking about Jaybro's or Ed's either!
I got asked to do the UW Bandaloop a few years ago ...but just couldn't muster up the mojo to do it.
Looks like another fun year lads, thx. for the TR.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 26, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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Very nice, very nice...
more?
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Aug 26, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
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Nice,Piece 'o' dirt,a fun lead.It's the Cool jet the crack to the right of Fantasia that the one that makes me puke! Need help!
Bruce.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 02:14am PT
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more, yes, but tired right now...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 27, 2009 - 03:55am PT
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When you climb at the level where we roll,
it takes more than
a little
distraction
to grab our attention
har!
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:38am PT
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It was a wonderful week hanging out with Jaybro and Ed. It was also really special to see Em, Bill and Goatboy. And it's always a pleasure to hang out with my good buddy Dingus McGee.
I'd say that it is quite an understatement when Ed said that, "I've figured out a bit more of this wide game in the last two years." He did Mainstreet quite easily.
Besides being the official photojournalist of the 2009 Boogaloo, Ed did more than his share of belaying, even with a sore back.
Em showed up and within an hour of her arrival, we were climbing. She doesn't mess around! She looks pretty happy to be at Vedauwoo.
Here's Bill doing his signature ascent of 5.11 crack.
Even Jaybro took an evening off from the wide and got into the slab action. Check out the retro shoes!
I'm sure enjoying the retelling of this tale. Hopefully there's more to come...
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:55am PT
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Man, I love that place, I just don't know if it returns the love properly. Maybe it's because the dance co wasn't there for me. Slowly getting on more of the wide. Sure is fun. Great group of people cheers.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:56am PT
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Nice shots!
Brings a smile on!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 27, 2009 - 11:04am PT
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"sometimes you get shone the light,
in the strangest of places,
If you look at it right"
Vedauwoo always shows the love, even if often it's tough, love.
The Rock Dancers, charming and earnest as they were are but a footnote.
Now the incident with the Norwegian bikini gurlz...
Way more to come, though on my part I'll have to pack a bunch in today cause I'm headed out to Lone Pine with Em tonight for the Brutus memorial.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 27, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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Oh how fun, and interesting with the bandaloopers!
More!
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Aug 27, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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Great time on the wide and otherwise. Even with a weak wing, it was good seeing all of you.
I had fun just hanging out, even when I wasn't climbing. One fine morning we all had a go at a little ol slab. Ed and Jay schooled the outtatowners on it; Ed is working, the rest look on in admiration
Erik following on another moderate, Cat Claw 5.8 (I thought it was harder)next to Lucille, which we all got a good look at:
I was a tad confused on Ed's Crack, facing the wrong way, again.
Em placing prayer flags for Brutus
Jaybro banging out a hard finger problem
All was well, minor bruises and beatings all around notwithstanding:
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cowpoke
climber
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Aug 27, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
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boy, nice pictures. those last few are really special, capturing the aura of the voo...miss it.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 27, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
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Manny, Jaybro, & Em lounging by the scuffy tree.
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L
climber
Return of the Rebel L Gang
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Aug 27, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
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Some spectacular photos here, one and all!
Fabulous juxaposition of the homegrown version of bandaloops as a backdrop to you rugged climber-dudes. Totally cool.
Jay...I've been thinking about the Queen...the tale's starting to unfold nicely...
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Aug 27, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Which one of you are the rugged climber-dudes? Vedauwoo makes me feel somewhat less than rugged at times.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 27, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
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So Scuff, we wanted to ask, is that a White Bark Pine?
We made a mass speakerphone call to Scuffy from that tree. Em's idea.
Anxiously awaiting that story, L!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 27, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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Nice shots Manny!
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
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dudes that was one of the best times i've had in a long time - many thanks...
that look on ed's face on that slab problem is priceless - ed, you and jaybro schooled us all on how that one is done...damn...
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
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Awesome photos! I've only visited Vedauwoo once (October 2008), and found out that places offers tough love in over-size doses. Can't wait to go back...
Did you guys happen to climb Beefeater as well while you were over at Currey's Diagonal? That's another high quality respite from the wide punishment.
-Nick
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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I so wished I could have been there if only to meet the esteem-able Hartouni man.
But with all these anti coagulation meds it might have been a bad blood letting. Messy business that. Seems like a wonderful time was had by all.
Manny it was great to see you the other day. Sorry I couldn't get away for more time.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:17pm PT
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hey, we skipped the day out to Reynolds Hill with grug...
Since we're bouncing around though time here's pagen's second ascent of one of his first climbs.
Where are those aliens to set us straight?
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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hehe - that was an alien offset i stuck there too...
i think one of the best parts about climbing is the timeless sense of rock. life is fleeting. poof. but the rock...the rock is *forever*...
em i keep that card you gave me at my desk at work. i'm so glad i got to see you smiling ;-) welcome home indeed...
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
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Nothing going on here...move along.
If only scuffy would've shown up we might have had some action shots...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 27, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
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Flash back 1 year
Hartouni photo?
Paganericmanny did you guys catch one of those shows?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
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Reynolds Hill day
(gotta hurry Em may drive up an minute)
some dudes,( Goatman, Grug, Mike Ed), posturing
Eeyonkees elbows after ascending Penis Dimension 5.10+
Various people on various things at once (Em on Climb and Punishment ,5.9 [my ass], Grug? on Hung like a Horse.
Mike Causually Cruxing on Hung like a Horse .11
Gonzo Nick, upthread, we did not get on Beefeater, though there was talk of it, I've done it stacks of times, last time unroped (25 yrs ago) but, while we did get a bunch of the classics, we couldn't hit 'em all.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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Grug going wild on Hung like a Horse;
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 27, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
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Em previsualising:
Some Movie Star? The Mighty Grug!
The Shanti route, 'Spatial Relations', awaiting a second ascent I believe.
Em, some guy playing dominoes, goatboy
Ed with my bowl
Em and Manny living the dream
Guys talking cars
"D'oh I could had a V-8" Eric.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 27, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
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we missed sunday - manny and i boogied as soon as we got back before the buses could trap us...
sweet pics all the way around...and manny hasn't complained about my lost march or my guidebook (i swear i thought you knew its from 92...)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
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Of course we didn't forget, just got lots of other things to do...
...getting back on Wednesday night we find goatboy arrives from Colorado, and Thursday morning grug aka eeyonkee arrives early, early.. it's the fourth day of climbing for me and I'm a bit worked...
I did a lot of belaying and shooting and not much climbing at Reynolds Hill. Mike lead Climb and Punishment 5.9+ while eyonkee lead Penis Dimension 5.10c, just to the left of it... Mike also lead Hung Like a Horse 5.11a.
My effort was limited to Climb and Punishment with my back punishing me for climbing... I had a feeble attempt at Penis Dimension.
Here is Jaybro at starting Hung Like a Horse
and at the start of the roof traverse
working at the crux, the hat comes off!
Em brought game, here she is squeezing it out on Penis Dimension
The scene, Em belayed by goatboy, eeyonkee belayed by Mike.
Here eeyonkee does the crux using a layback move... unbelievable!
the dude is just too strong.
The sun was beating down on us, making us all warm... Mike didn't think I could get this shot... but it is why I bought this particular camera
And Em was getting her rest too!
Jaybro cavorted around in his stealth-rubber spats
what's with that?
We went over to Pooh Corner and did the 5.9 first pitch, eeyonkee actually lead the whole thing at 5.10b, but didn't give the second pitch, the roof pitch, a good review.... no pix by me... I belayed and then did a lap, fun hand jams.
Then goatboy requested a slabby/facey climb and Jaybro suggested Granite Stairway at 5.11b which took some time to find. Mike and I did the recon.. then called the others up once it was found. Only Jaybro and goatboy decided to return to camp...
Here is Em joyfully picking raspberries
Mike convinced eeyonkee that this was his lead, here he is at the crux
it is steep, and lacks hand holds...
but Greg got it done!
Em took a lap and then Mike... I opted out, I was just too sore...
We got back at dark, after seeing two bull moose and a lady moose on the walk back... we arrive at camp to find Manny, Dingus and Bob Scarpelli... what a night!
I was so thrashed that I retired a bit early, waking up load arguments that kept up around the fire late into the night. My back was hurting, but I think I felt ok about the trip so far.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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Friday was a rest day for me... I just couldn't climb anymore... Mike took off for a family obligation, and I was trashed. Jaybro, Em, Manny, Goatboy were headed up to Hassler's Hatbox. I promised Jaybro I'd think about joining them after a bit of down time...
I got the telephoto out and shot the gang getting ready to climb Edwards' Crack 5.7 a normal solo run
Jaybro headed up some variation of Walt's Wall 5.4 a more sane solo with a pack
Manny getting down to business, with Em belaying
Higher up, with Jaybro laying in wait (well, at least sitting)
A picture of Jaybro taking a picture of Manny, which appears above in a Jaybro post
I went into Laramie to get a few things, mostly chips and beer, I was making Guacamole that night, and grabbed a bite to eat, and a phone call check in with Deb back in Livermore (who I hadn't talked to since Monday).
When I got back I grabbed my shoes and a chalk bag and wandered up under Edwards' Crack and thought about soloing it... I've done it before, and it isn't such a big deal, but I was very tired and my body was achy... at some point I sneezed and my lower back was very stiff and painful... no solo today, no climbing today... need to rest.
Back at camp I ran into dogtown who had been out bouldering around and came looking for us.
The crew took a big drink of Lucille up on top and were down at dusk... here they are making dinner... Paganmonkeyboy also shows up!
Another great, but very rare scene was dogtown "selling" [url="http://www.frostworksclimbing.com/sentinel.html"]Frostworks Sentinel Nuts[/url] out of his car! this is how we used to do it before the internet...
I am definitely going to buy a set... they're beautiful!
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Aug 28, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
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Most excellent!!!
Looks a great time as usual!!!
Awesome photo of Ed on the slab problem btw!!
You guys are crushing!!
cheers,
Patrick
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 28, 2009 - 12:58pm PT
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Grug on Pooh Corner.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Aug 28, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Em on Climb and Punishment.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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OK - I'm now impressed with this crowd! Those routes there at Reynolds Hill are burly. I lived in Laramie in 1981. Penis Dimension and Hung Like a Horse chewed me up and spit me out about 20 times each. Climb and Punishment (5.9D+++, a beautiful line and great crack) took a bunch of tries to finally get the lead without hanging.
Great TR! Really enjoying the photos and remembering how fun climbing road trips with friends can be.
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L
climber
Return of the Rebel L Gang
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Aug 28, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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This thing's just gettin' better an' better!
Em "previsualizing" got me laughing.
Really great pix y'all--can't wait for the next installment.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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Geeze... you guys are killing me. Nice shots of great-looking cracks!
Count me in for next year... somehow. I'll get with Manny and form a wagon train.
I wanna be a droog!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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This thread drops faster and faster... I suspect all those interested by now are the people who actually showed up... anyway.
Saturday, we, Em, Jaybro and I, were going to split early afternoon to SLC to overnight at Mike's on our way back to the Bay Area... so I declared it a bouldering day (not that I declare a lot... just a suggestion that everyone took up because, apparently and unbeknownst to me a midnight crew wandered out to boulder Friday night while I crashed).
You can get some flavor for it, perhaps with this video of various attempts at Hull's Boulder
http://www.vimeo.com/6324051
I sent it (Manny's picture captures the animal intensity) and Jaybro before me, showing the way wearing his Kaukulators.
Em will have to explain this with the image she was intent upon capturing
as far as I know, no chipmunks were harmed in the process
Here the goatboy works the deceptive slab
carefully watched by the gang of spotters
Paganmonkeyboy working it
And Jaybro actually sends it...
We went out to the fingercrack problem... also hard...
the peanut gallery was at least in the shade
while various highpoints were reached
but even with her hair down super-ripped-Em couldn't unlock the secret
It took Jaybro to skool us in the ways....
http://www.vimeo.com/6324579
we went back to camp after this, loaded up 510 OW and took off for SLC.
I've got some concluding video clips from the rest of the trip that I will put together tomorrow... all in all it was more adventuresome than I had hoped for... and the reason I'm sitting home tonight instead of on the eastside....
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:22am PT
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Mike wrote:Vedauwoo makes me feel somewhat less than rugged at times.
I know! It's for sure some of the hardest old Sclool climbing I have ever done.EVER.
Frostworks Nuts, if you don't have them. You should.
Dogtown.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:28am PT
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A thread that should be of widespread interest. Lots of fun. Raspberry picking, too!
How'd you post that mini-animation of Jaybro?
How did 5.10OW do?
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Dudeman
Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
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Aug 29, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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Wow, very nice stuff. Tons of climbing action. Loved all the pics and commentary.
Thanks for sharing.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 29, 2009 - 10:07am PT
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You sure know how to put a good road trip thread together, Ed.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
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here is something for the photoshoppers to work on...
...I couldn't locate a profile of locker quickly... but this would seem to be grist for that particular mill...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Aug 29, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
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Great TR, guys.
Rick
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 03:00am PT
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the last bits... the trip home. Anders asks "How did 510 OW do?"
Well, I was worried too, and I think I didn't sleep well on Wednesday night after Jaybro and I picked up Em in Laramie because of a little hiccup that the car did at the top of the long grade out to Vedauwoo... just a momentary pause, but I was worried.
Remember the illustrator Peter Aschwanden in John Muir's How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive Forever, the book that we all had back in the day? Do you remember this illustration?
that was Wednesday night....
...what exactly happened? well check out the video for the on-the-road details...
http://www.vimeo.com/6338676
The bottom line is that the bell housing which connects the transmission to the engine cracked. Detlev, my mechanic and the guy who got it all together, believes that a small pre-existing crack in the bell housing came back from the tranny rebuilders... Things weren't going to last too long and the crack probably grew in the intervening 7,000 miles of travel I put on the beast since April.
here is how the bell housing looked today when I went in to pick up the car, now running fine....
so it is pretty lucky that it all came apart somewhere easy to get out of... I'm thinking of upgrading to AAA Premier now... it might save me some $s in towing costs...
That's it for this year's trip... hopefully next year's will be less exciting, at least in terms of 510 OW.
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Unforgiven
Mountain climber
Dirt
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Aug 30, 2009 - 10:05am PT
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climb and punishment always felt like 5.8 imo. bummer about the van
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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Afterwords....
Sunday, August 23rd Mike was out at Maple Canyon working on a long time project of his, [url="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/maple_canyon/right_fork/105997764"]Sprout[/url] 5.13a in The Pipe Dream area cave. Mike has been working this project for quite some time, and as a climber now in his 50s (just) it was inspirational that he still had his goals set on even harder climbs... this his hardest lead, a personal best.
Given that he had been climbing with us the week before we were all clued in on his mental and physical state, and his very humble approach to all the climbing we did... from complaining about how hard Fantasia was for him, the pain of pulling on the razor sharp crystals of Piece of Dirt and tweaking a shoulder on Sugar Crack to his send of Hung Like a Horse. He was ever ready to give up the sharp end of the rope, and a super encouraging partner.
While we were waiting for the tow truck to arrive in Fernley Jaybro texted him to find out what had transpired that day on the project... the one word reply was:
Sprout!
which we took as a good sign.... he later emailed this picture of him on his send.
A great accomplishment for a great guy, and an inspiration to me, personally.
Zander reminded me yesterday that I had said that I am still getting better every year, and I think I am, actually. All these guys and gals I climb with are the reason, thanks to all of you!
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Aug 30, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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Go Mike!!!!! very cool!!!
excellent TR!! lots of photos for sure!!
cheers,
Patrick
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 30, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
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Super Kick A$$ TR to all involved.
Looks like the time spent away from the Tacostand was time well spent in the company of good people and fun times.
Thanks Ed for the TR.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 30, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
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Looks like a cool trip Ed. I even had a momentary longing to taste a bit of OW, but I quickly lay down and it went away.
You guys rock.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Aug 31, 2009 - 03:08am PT
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The gunks has it's own OW (Ventre de Boeuf).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 31, 2009 - 10:12am PT
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It ain't everyday you crack a bell housing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 31, 2009 - 10:27am PT
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"It rings for thee..."
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2009 - 10:39am PT
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Great mix of photos and captions from different viewpoints, conveying the rhythm of the trip.
Which looks very physical, you folks are tough.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 31, 2009 - 10:52am PT
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Great TR. Looked like a ton of fun!
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Aug 31, 2009 - 11:06am PT
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Wow Great thread. Now who do I bill the last hour and a half to?
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Shermen, Peabody....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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an obscure but worthy squeeze FA of Nurse Ratchet's that has so far gone un recorded and unrepeated, thogth the Cat, Frank Black, may have done it, as well.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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pictures?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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oops!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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LOL!!!
looks like it is bottomless like the start to the narrows.
hee hee
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oh, Man! Sorry about the VW buses Bell. Oh hell. Damn. But you made it back right before this happen Yes?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2009 - 09:11am PT
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nope... were made it to Fernley NV about 256 miles short...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jaybro
Is that the cat door to the bathroom????
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Steve, that's what I thought at first, actually it is a swingin' deal so that door clears the the toilet; small, but otherwiswe fully funcional bathroom.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Sep 21, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
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HAZARDOUS ALIEN ACTIVITY OUTLOOK
NATIONAL ALIEN SECURITY SERVICE SAN FRANCISCO CA
1355 HOURS MON SEPT 21 2009
THIS HAZARDOUS ALIEN OUTLOOK IS FOR PORTIONS OF THE INTERMOUNTAIN WEST.
DAY FORTY-FIVE
OBSERVED MOVEMENT OF THE ALIENS HAS BEEN CONFIRMED BY VISUAL SIGHTINGS WITHIN THE SHERMAN GRANITE RANGE OF WYOMING. HOMO SAPIENS ON THE RANGE ARE URGED TO AVOID SUDDEN MOVEMENTS AND COMMUNICATE ONLY WITH HAND SIGNALS OR THROUGH THE OPTIC TECTUM OF THE BRAIN IF THEY COME INTO CONTACT.
EMERGING FROM THEIR SHIPS
BEINGS ARE CONSIDERED HIGHLY VOLATILE ONCE EXPOSED TO SHERMAN GRANITE LIBERALLY EXPRESSING THEMSELVES WITH SEVERE DEEP BODY SCARIFICATION FOLLOWED BY COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF CHOCOLATE, RUM, AND TEQUILA.
DUE TO INCREASING PRECIPITATION AND LACK OF RECOVERING FROM THE HIGH ATMOSPHERIC PRESURE THE BEINGS WERE OBSERVED TO WEAKEN AND SEEK NONCONFRONTATIONAL SURROUNDINGS IN THE PEOPLES REPUBLIC. SURVEILLANCE THEORIZE THIS MOVEMENT WAS TO BLEND IN WITH THE LOCALS WITH NO DANGER OF BEING DISCOVERED.
CURRENT SURVEILLANCE BELIEVES THE ALIENS MAY CONTACT WITH THEIR GERMAN CELL FOR MORE WIDE FESTIVITIES IN THE DESERTS OF UTAH.
END OF REPORT.
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L
climber
My yin just might be your yang.
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Sep 21, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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FINALLY! Visual confirmation that we HAVE been visited by Alien Invaders...
and that...
they have come to...
climb our rocks.
Thank you Goatboy! Thank you!
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Ray-J
Social climber
socal
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Sep 21, 2009 - 07:17pm PT
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Ugh! The hideous "Wide".
"When will they ever learn...
When will they eeever learn."
Ha! Looks like a blast.
That rock is so feakin coarse - omg.
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Sep 22, 2009 - 02:36am PT
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Ugh! The hideous "Wide".
"When will they ever learn...
When will they eeever learn."
Never, It's all we have.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Bet it's getting cold there now...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 29, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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Okay I have my press badge on again. This just in from field correspondent EM, from Yesterday on the Shermen Granite frontier;
Wait, isn't that Goatboy on Lake Brainerd, RMNP?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 29, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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Jaybro. . .you in town?????
like as in Boulder/Denver?????
We need to have beers!!!!!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Dec 29, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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Thanks for posting those up Jay!
Looks a tad chilly out that way...
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 28, 2010 - 11:29am PT
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Will the crew
gather at the voo
for a boogaloo
in 2010 too?
We're dialing in the family summer road trip -- always a stop in Laramie -- and wondered if there are tentative boogaloo dates floating around?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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And we want to know the dates too!!!!!!
Please?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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July 4th week?
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 28, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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^^^the advantage of that week = Jubilee Days in Laramie...Rodeo!
the disadvantage = we can't be there...we're rooting for mid-August dates.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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gettin' done in 2009 bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:08am PT
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Bugoo '12!
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:30am PT
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Looking forward to it, For sure! Have a few new projects to share.
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thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
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Jul 31, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
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noob comes to vedauwoo with phat cammmaaageeee bump boyee
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dawgtown, you down for this fish thing? You still in a silo by Cheytown?
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